pumbaa

I've got CoPilot for the iphone 4 and it seems pretty good, especially for £25!

Anyone know any good ones for an iphone 4? I must be bonkers 'cause im certainly not rich!

Let me know and i'll send you some cash too.

if my c has had 2 private plates before does that mean it has 2 previous different normal reg's too? ifso, would they havr had to be the same year and can i find out what theyt were?

on it like a car bonnet? Defo put me down for a pair!

I cant say for sure. Not a g60 man. But i'm pretty sure the nut covered with weld is the lambda plug and your lambda is screwed into it.

I wouldn't recommend it buddy not exactly sure of the repercussions. The lambda probably isn't welded, just seized like a mother... Grit your teeth and try harder!

Yeah but once you have it right.....

Yup, to adjust the sprocket its a inlet & rocker cover off job.

I'm looking to fit an uprated clutch and lightened flywheel. Any ideas on what else VAG will fit? Maybe some kind or tdi clutch? Will a mk2 or mk4 clutch fit? Sorry identity stupid q's, I don't know too much about clutch / gearbox assembly.

Lighter tappets = less weight for the cams to push so in theory (in my own head, someone else might want to throw in their 2p) should be more freely revving, we are talking on a micro scale here but with a valver.... every little helps! I think you're right there dragon, from what i know its a trade off between power up top or grunt down low, a vernier pulley alone will only ever advance or retard both cams at the same time, in order to play with inter-cam timing and achieve the highest possible output torque and/or bhp wise you need a vernier pulley on the exhaust and an internal vernier sprocket on the inlet side. You can then set inlet and exhaust to open and close as soon and as late as possible and play with overlap. Gains will will be minimal unless you're going turbo but as said before... every little helps! :D Hence why i'm after a vernier sprocket at a reasonable price and not from Lithuania. What vernier pulleys do you guys have, and are the woodruff keys built in or separate?

I'm running a flowed & skimmed abf head and cams, DG map and setup, stainless & 4 branch, flowed throttle body and inlet manifold, removed snorkel and some brand spanking new injectors. I will be running a cold air feed soon too. Need to get it on a rr but haven't had the time. I think 200 horses might be optimistic but i'd be well pleased if i got anywhere near 190. I cant say the abf cams made it feel anymore peaky than the kr i had in my old mk2 i'd probably say its less so but i only drove it briefly for 2 days before the re-map and it's not that 'peaky' now. I'd be very interested to see what the kr and abf's produce side by side. The abf inlet has both higher lift and duration than the kr and the exhaust has higher lift but less duration than the kr. Also the abf's have an overlap which might help things higher up the rev range. One thing you will notice with the abf's is the engine cranks once or twice before firing when starting due to the overlap. Will let you know results when i finally rr it. I have also been toying with the idea of twin exhaust cams but i've heard i may loose a fair bit of pull lower down the revs and when re-building the engine i have some running issues and so stuck safe with a matched pair of cams. I have a windage tray yet to be fitted but tbh i thought that was really to help keep oil in the sump when cornering hard much like a baffled sump. I also have a 'kent' vernier pulley im wanting to fit but i can't seem to get hold of the right size woodruff key. Any ideas? Also, i was under the impression a vernier pulley would only really shift the power band up or down? Have also been searching for a vernier sprocket at a reasonable price for a while but no luck. ANy ideas on that one too? And finally, i was under the impression that there were very few differences between the 9a head and the abf head? I know the exhaust valve seats on the abf actually match the valves unlike on the 9a and kr, and that early kr's had larger inlets and smaller exhausts, but i also thought that the later 9a's had an abf head anyway? Also worth noting that abf tappets are lighter than kr/9a tappets and abf valves are held with 3 ridge collets instead of 1.

yeah, got a fair amount of play. my drivers blade 'taps' the pillar at full swing.

If you can afford to and you're changing the cams anyway its a no brainer not to. Once cams are out simply pull the lifters out and replace. Job done. (i've only worked on 4 bangers but i cant see why 6 would be any different!)

Yeah, no need to 'soak'. You could pump them whilst in oil but there is no point. Just fit them. They may be slightly noisy until they properly fill up but nothing to worry about.

A definite yes from me. I want to do my borbets white but haven't got time/money/spare wheels.

Not the best brand but i do remember 'mutant' doing a stereo you can connect an ipod to, flip down the face and chuck it in. I've got a pioneer unit that hooks up to my iphone, handsfree is really good quality. The ipod lead comes out of the back of the stereo so it can be routed to the glove box or centre console cubby hole.

Cheers stretch

Can't order one, it keeps telling me there was an error and to try again later. :(

The last 'real' bid was around the £500 mark. The rest were the seller, notice how all bids post £500 were from buyers with very low or no feedback........ i.e. brand new accounts created by the seller in order to bid on his own items! A not too uncommon ebay trick!

Congrats on having it found! Stick a list up and we'll see what i have.

C**ts

Refined power blah blah blah....... All about the lairy kick that throws you into the back of your seat for me!

Mine arrived yesterday, 2x genuine TT wiper arms - part no: 8N2 955 408D So can't see how there would be any problems. But i guess it's all in the blades.

Ditto, think i may have to pop open the lid for the in tank pump and take a look at the arm.