kvwloon

Blimey, that's certainly got my attention for a future mod....anyone got a secondhand carb as detailed they don't need anymore.....!? :lol: Also, if you change to the larger (50mm?) inlet, is there a downside at all, does it change things really noticeably from the smaller manifold? Must admit the 16v is great once it gets spinning, but at lower revs...hmm. I'd consider swapping in a larger manifold, but is it worth doing?

Phew! Thanks for that :)

Every time i change the air filter on my 16v KR engine C, there is oil staining on the air filter element, not a large amount at all, but apparently caused by small oil drip from above the filter element! Should i be concerned? Thanks in advance all.

Just in case anyone wants fairly close up pics of how the Lupo wipers look when fitted........

This any better......?

I reckon the noise is the airflow being sucked rapidly in to the airbox via the drilled holes. I did mine and like the noise, but i didn't majorly drill the airbox, just drilled a few holes, went for a blat, then put afew more in til i was happy with the effect. Maybe get a scrappy airbox and either leave it undrilled, or put holes in it, but not as many as you have now?!

I'd recommend the airbox drilling mate, sounds much better, but dont go too overboard with drilling the holes, put some in , give it a blat, and see what you think. You can always put more in if you like. Take a look at the 'Embarrasing Drilled Airbox' thread before you make your airbox like a Swiss cheese. I'd still drill the airbox, just not excessively!

Norwich today, G reg dark green 16v in carpark at Greens',white C near city centre, probably not on this Group though, coz you had sidelights and foglights on!

Bloody marvelous!!!! Excuse my 16v ignorance, but is a standard G60 far off the same sound? If comparable at all, I want one! :D :D :D There is a knob near me you can hear coming for miles in his allegedly souped up jap crap Honda, but that relies on exhaust noise, as per 'White Nova Boy', that G60 is pure beautiful engine grunt noise...wonderful!

As a picture is worth a thousand words.......

Headlight wiring loom upgrade, followed by Lupo GTi wipers, no question!...

Oh!, mine were the original 'Mk2' Golf type on my early 16v, which i replaced wtih Mk3, which are supposed to be less prone to handbrake mech defect. I have heard some instances of these still seizing though, and people fitting Mk4 Golf type, but dont know how easy/hard that would be.

Thats deffo the calipers' handbrake mech seizing then, when mine went the same way fitted Mk3 Golf calipers in their place as a direct swop, as the design is better and less prone to this problem.

Your noise description sounds exactly like what i experienced! Just been out to take a look and refresh my memory (jeez it's cold out there tonight!) and i need to make some corrections. Seems that i actually had to put the bolts in from underneath, which is a lot more fiddly and hence not popular with average exhaust fitter. Now my memory has been jolted i reckon the bolt tails must have been hitting on the top of the steering rack under acceleration. If you look over the back of the middle of the engine, straight down, just above the rack , but below the two cable assys going to the gearbox, there should be a curved box profile section fitted around the exhaust downpipe just before the exhaust curves away under the car. Need to make sure it's there, and if so that it's bolt heads/tails arent close enough to vibrate against anything under acceleration. Think i had to turn the bolts around, and also move the whole assy up nearer to the engine to get rid of the noise. If still not too sure can post a piccy tomorrow.

OK, NZGTI have sent you the piccies via e-mail, but will also post as an attachment here(didn't know i could do that!) BTW the gauges are in line correctly, just a bit distorted by digicam image, honest!

Cassette stowage comes out very easily, on mine at least it just pulled out with a liitle persuasion, I dont have a personal webspace set up at moment to upload photos to this site from, but if you can access the UK Corrado Yahoo Group, there are piccys in the 'Photos' section, in the file called 'Mark Thomas'. If not, PM me your e-mail and i can send you photos direct. Send me your address as well if you wish (probably gonna regret saying this! :) ) and i'll see what i can do to make and send you a panel like mine ( two holes or three, your choice ) at no cost to you. Can't guarantee when i'd be able to get it done, but you shouldnt have to wait too long. Regds, Mark.

I had similiar thing after some monkeys replaced my 16v downpipe, every time i pulled away i got a mettalic rattling from front end. Turned out that on the heatshield which bolts around the downpipe near the bottom of the steering column, when they re-fitted it they fitted it with the bolts that go through the heatshield the wrong way round, i.e. the bolt heads were down-most. This means that when the nuts were fully tightened down, the tail ends of the bolts were protruding up and close to the car body, and when i pulled away would contact the car with a rapid rat-t-t-t-t-t-t sound! Turn the bolts around the other way (i.e drop them in down from in the engine bay rather than up from underneath) and no matter how much you tighten the nuts the bolt heads will never get nearer to the car body. Hope that makes some kind of sense and solves it? If need a bit more clarification of my crap explanation let me know and i can send a piccy. That's assuming of course they re-fitted the heatshield to the new exhaust, hope so, as it is necessary! Regds , Mark.

You can do what I did and make a panel from flat aluminium alloy sheet, shaped to fit in the cubby hole opening, with 52mm dia holes to accept each VDO gauge., and then spray black. You can even just about get three gauges in instead of two if you mount them just above the mid line of the panel. Pad the rear of the gauges out with some foam and the panel is a push fit in to the hole, perfect, oil temp / oil pressure and voltmeter in one panel!

Hmmm, as I understand it the only caliper seals would be around the pistons internally, and the seal which moves on the outside of the body as the piston moves. My opinion from bitter experience is that if calipers stay on with handbrake off in all weathers then probably handbrake mechanism on original calipers seizing up, if it only happens during freezing conditions then most probably the handbrake cable itself freezing up......but......

If you wanted to go the cheaper 'early' style instead of expensive (but rather smart) custom pod , you can always make your own flat gauge panel using some alloy sheet, say 1.5mm thick, and make 52mm holes to sit standard VDO gauges in. It's just possible to fit three VDO guages (oil temp / oil press. and voltage ) in this way....the gauges are in-line properly BTW, piccy a bit distorted by digicam....

Thread hijack alert!...sorry, but, how do you know when they need replacing Is it just something an MOT would pick up on, or would you notice anything adverse yourself?

Many thanks Gavin, will get in touch with Scole Engineering.

I'd definately try changing the handbrake cables first, dead easy job to do and about £15 each. The rubber boot at the caliper attaching end splits or can be totally missing, in freezing weather water gets in and the cable gets frozen solid, so despite you taking the handbrake 'off' the cables at the caliper end will remain stuck 'on'. As usual you can't get the rubber boots for the cables on their own, have to buy new cable assy! If the calipers are seizing internally theyl'l normally be like that regardless of the weather. Sounds like the cable/rubber boot at fault to me! Recommend take a look under the car where the cable attaches to the caliper, and check the rubber boots are there and not split. (Mk3 Golf calipers a good mod. though if original calipers do start seizing, straight swap with originals)

Hmmm....on my admittedly 16v the pump in the tank has two pipes also, but they fit to the top of the pump assy and therefore do not sit in fuel, but surely, if you get genuine original spec pipes and fittings you should have no problems, did the garage fit genuine VW parts i wonder? Have you looked at ETKA, are there any clips missed off which may need to be there?

Hmm, this is getting me thinking now, never reaaly considered touching the engine at all til now! So, do you just fit an exhaust cam in place of the inlet (i.e two 'exhaust' cams fitted), is there no downside to that at all, do you have to adjust the engine settings at all? Is the 50mm manifold better for lower revs range, or across the board better than the 45mm? Finally, where are Stealth, and could no-one else locally (Norwich) do the same work, perhaps a Bosch Ignition agent? Mark