Dox

I’ve got 312 and 288 carriers and callipers to use as exchange units if needed. 312 disks are heavy, I went 288 to 312 on a mk4 and couldn’t really tell the difference tbh. I also have a full Diavia aircon set up still gassed up. You can have first refusal. Should be Stealth Obsession btw

I went 239mm to 280mm on my mk2 and the difference was staggering ( I had to fit the larger 22mm master cylinder). I used Pagid fast road pads and Bradi plain disks

Pistons are the same size 54mm

Mk4 288s are the same as late mk3 - no spacer needed as long as you use mk3 late disks. you’ll need banjo hoses either mk3 (I think mk4 are also the same?) or braided etc. If you go 312s you can only use a mk4 disk and you’ll need 6mm spacers

Just use the standard space saver on the rear, swap the rear to the front of you get a front puncture?

Ecu power or ground issue, my focus would be on the alarms immobiliser and earth to the ecu.

But he says the alarm still operates when the fault occurs, so there must be sufficient power for that?

Coil reader only reads the key chip when the key is first presented, it’s not then needed until the ecu is powered off and then the cycle is repeated? immobiliser fuse is the same as the spoiler, remove, inspect for burning and replace it anyway? immobiliser box is behind the dash, inspect its plug for burning / oxidisation/ water ingress etc Does the alarm also have its own immobiliser? If so I’d bypass it.

I vote scooby bonnet vent lol

I stopped because recycling was piling up lol - handily wheelie bins are marked up in litres helping the mixing of he soda. I recommend it though. The residue on the struts is like egg shell and also cleans off easily, I used a battery connected to the charger at all times which seems to help.

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I played with this last year in lockdown, I did a Corrado rear axle in a wheelie bin using two old front struts for the rust to deposit onto. Two days then flipped the axle over for another two days. The rust goes flakey and is easily removed with a wire brush. i used washing soda from home bargains 90p per packet. My neighbour also did it on his T25 van bits cant find it online on HBs website, but they do sell it, B and M also my set up https://www.bmstores.co.uk/products/dri-pak-soda-crystals-500g-349612

Probably owned by Les Wagstaffe or similar? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Remove the fuse for the rear spoiler, the immobilisers shares the same fuse , if the car won’t start the immobiliser is still live

I thought they started off silver and tainted with heat and environment?

Pumping oe mounts with tigerseal seems the hot potato with the mk4 boys on fb these days, not sure how that translates to Corrado though?

I have a set of 17 inch ABT A23s and had a conversation re the GTi International pic in the thread

I've had the horn ring / wiper (the bit that touches the horn ring on the steering wheel) arc and pick up creating a spike that causes a scratching noise on other VWs, a light clean with emery paper and a smear of Vaselene cured it

New wheel suggestions please :) - Page 2 - Exterior - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net) Have a look at the pics in this thread Build thread Leonard's Corrado VR6 - 515bhp 5.9L's twin scroll turbo ;) - Page 9 - Members Gallery - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net)

Looks like over fill drain pipe from the filler neck?

No worries

They have 5 valves per cylinder and the seals will be hard and cracked, it doesn’t smoke and pulls well.

I’m about to break a BAM tt with 103k miles on it, engine can be heard running. It’s been sorned for 18 months -COVID, it does use 1L of oil every 1k miles - most multi valves do at 18 years old

If a warm bay keeps the light off its more likely to be the solder joints on the control board on the pump IMO (heat from the exhaust expands the joints on the pump as its bolted to the bulkhead). Saying that the pedal sensor is 25+ years old and the system would benefit long term for having these joins reflowed anyway? I bought my car with the light on permanently, the car was ex Isle of Man and had never had an MOT in its 15 years. Scans revealed a wheel sensor fault, Inlet / outlet faults / pedal position sensor fault. I swapped the wheel sensor and got the car through its first ever MOT. Then came the intermittent faults, light on when the bay was cold, but restarting when hot would keep the light off - I swapped the pump (it was a MK3 pump with a different part number) and the light went out on start up when cold as it should. Then came the random light on under braking, replaced the pedal sensor with a re-conditioned one purchased off Emu off the forum. Since all the above the Wheeler dealer program aired showing the circuit board fix and other forum member kindly posted their pedal sensor fixes. The whole set up is problematic and age is affecting the system too (water ingress into the ECU is also an issue - rusty leaking windscreens), wiring doesn't seem to be as problematic as the hardware but again age and constant fiddling with connectors wont help long term.

Eurocarparts and superior, two words you never see in the same post?