Dox

I'm lucky that my road going car is ex Isle of Man so corrosion of the underpinnings is quite light (no road salt used in winter) compared with the non runner UK storm which is very grotty in comparison, so I only replace the minimum as I find OE VW stuff lasts at least twice as long as febi / lemforder on my MK4 Golf based cars that I've run for the last 15 years or so (golf, Toledo, Octavia, a3 etc)

It sounds like the dealer I used to use, closed because the site wasn't big enough for a glass palace.

In fairness to the parts dept I'd bet 80% of enquiries for older cars end up with the caller going to Europoo, because of the prices and also in our case parts being obsolete too? Most people who go to work in the car trade start out as enthusiasts but end up like the rest of us going to work to pay our bills, they do say never turn your hobby / interest into your occupation?

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/battery-isolators-master-switches If you leave the earth connected to the shell there's always a potential for a short to ground, that's why its preferable to disconnect the earth first when removing the battery. I think the battery posts are slightly different diameters too? A 10mm spanner velcro'd to the battery is probably a neater solution?

Can you not slide the battery over towards the gearbox? I have a physically larger battery on one of my cars so believe its possible?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=disscarnect&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xdiscarnect.TRS0&_nkw=discarnect&_sacat=0

The tapatalk app makes posting pics off your phone easy

Door membranes need checking too. Rot around the petrol tank filler too but that's more when driving in rain as the tyre flings water up into the arch

Angle grinder first :)

Maybe with a reiger kit? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spg50

Don't waste your money, the pressure from the inlet side of the matrix is the same as the outlet give or take 1PSI (due to the pump), what it does after the initial bursting of the matrix and depressurisation of the coolant system (over the passengers feet) it restricts (not stops) further flow from the pump until you can pull over. If you placed one of those in both inlet and outlet you'd hardly get any heat out of the matrix as coolant would seek the less restricted route around the engine. The system is designed to circulate coolant even if the matrix became completely blocked.

It sounds like a baffle plate? A baffle wont reduce pressure, but it will reduce flow. Imagine a football with a baffle plate with a 5mm hole in the middle, when inflated the pressure in the two sections will eventually equalise, puncture the ball and the holed side will empty quickly, the other side will decrease pressure at a slower rate.

It had better be a big wallet, prices have doubled in the last 7 days........ ;)

The rack boot is just a dust seal, fluid shouldn't be in there, the rack seal itself must be leaking?

You can grind two flats on a normal socket and hold it with a suitable spanner, pass an Allen key through the middle to hold the shaft

I've seen pics of Coolant pumps With there impellers corroded away, if the top and bottom rad Hoses Are hot the stat is open

Test your current one once you've fitted the rad, fill with water, the block will need a good flushing anyway. Warm up, top hose gets warm, bottom remains closed. Up to temp, both top and bottom hose hot, your stat is working as it should. Drain and refill with mixed coolant. Stat stuck open both top and bottom hoses warm up at the same time, stat stuck closed, bottom hose never gets hot = replace the stat

Brr50

Well done to you for listening and trying out stuff, so many times people ask advice and go on to ignore what could be a free or cheap fix because money solves everything? It's all here for posterity, on Facebook it would be gone tomorrow....

I'm emotional ;)

FPR, rail and injectors don't fetch big money, so maybe worth buying used once you've run a few gallons through it?

Worth checking the leads are correct Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fuel cleaners will remove deposits from the tank and fuel lines and send them through the injectors. A few gallons of premium fuel is all I'd give it then change the fuel filter once the cars is firing on all cylinders - catch the crud in the filter. Really pleased for you :)

Clean the crank sensor - both ends. Clean coil pack connector, make sure all leads are secure both ends. You're getting there