24V Renshaw
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Everything posted by 24V Renshaw
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Getting a fairly strong whiff of fuel in the morning when I start the car to come to work and then when I start it to come home again. Its a standard VR6 and the windows are closed and it seems to be running fine. Been having a good look and can't find any obvious cause at the moment (fuel lines in engine bay seem dry, no puddles of fuel anywhere), so has anyone had this and found the cause? Cheers Jay
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That bolt did exactly the same on mine, but luckily I had another subframe available, so was not too bothered. Did you get the mounts in then? Did you leave the lower rear one as OEM (for a more standard feel) or put the poly bit in? Jay
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Black please :)
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350bhp from a G60?! Would love to see the details. Is it a 16vG60? Jay
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Yep. G28 is the one on the front of the block. Held in by an M6 cap head from memory. Can be easily removed from under the car.
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I am planning on getting one of these when my new garage is finished. Think its the perfect compromise between full on lift and jack and axle stands. Jay
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I am sure last time I spoke to him he said he could not get the silver ones, but I will ring tomorrow and check.
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Cheers guys. @Karl, Yep PW only do black and I doubt VW do them but with VW logos. @ Tom, I did find those and it may be my only option, but was hoping more like £50 or less...
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Looks good in there. One thing though, you should not need to cut down the mount at the rear, the engine is supposed to sit at an angle to allow the oil to flow the right way down into the block from the head and in the sump. Worst case you have to lower the front mount a touch for clearance. Bear in mind the block is exactly the same forging as the 12v so why would you need to tilt it? Good progress though mate. Cheers Jay
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That's very generous, do you not need them?. What are they like? I am happy to buy nice clean new ones but am seriously struggling to find any at the mo.
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Yeah, happy to pay for good ones.... If I could find some. :(
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Nope. If you make the mounting points as low as possible they will sit low enough. Jay
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Cheers but, I only want Chrome/Silver and none of them do them :( Jay
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Afternoon all. I am after a set of mint or extremely good condition centre badges from BBS RC's. These are the big 80mm ones and I want the original chrome BBS ones. Don't need the nuts or plates, but if someone has all of it and won't split them I might be interested. Let me know what you have. Cheers Jay
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Easiest seats in the world to make brackets for as the Porsche runners do all the movement etc.. so you can Fix them into the Corrado runners and use the porsche seats for all the movement. Get two pieces of thick (6mm or so) plate steel which fit across between the two porsche runners. Weld the bottom couple of inches (or as little as you can get away with) of the two back legs from a Corrado seat onto one of the strips, make sure the corrado seat "mounting angle" is retained.. Then weld a locating lug for the front pin at right angles to the front plate in the centre. Bolt the Porsche runners to these to plates and slide into the car.... then use the Porsche seat for all the movement. Easy as that :) Jay
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LOL, well I refrained from writing "i told you so", but I told you so! :) :) I think as the revs go up it works fine, then for whatever reason, be it swarf, or its loose, or faulty, then it does then doesn't and the ECU tries its hardest to keep things going by filling in the gaps maybe? Nah OEM is the way forward, 2 mins on VAGCOM and its told you whats wrong :) Jay
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As I said in my first reply on this thread, I got these exact symptoms from the crank sensor so fingers crossed a new one solves it for you. Jay
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To be quite honest if there is a rattle/squeak something is loose/missing or tired and needs replacing. VW did not sell the Corrado with loads of squeaks and rattles so there should be none now. 99 times out of 100 you take off the panel or part which squeaks and there is a clip or bit of felt missing or worn through. Just take your time and work through them all.
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Good progress. As I mentioned previously use a TT shifter, it already has the 1" backward offset on the shaft, otherwise it's identical to the Mk4 Jay
