24V Renshaw

Standard for now. I am going to work towards correcting the geometry with it being lowered slightly, rather than compensating with Anti Roll bars. Jay

Personal preference again, but I would not go for powerflex in all locations. If you lower the car the rear bushes in the front wishbones start to dislocate over time. You want to use OEM golf R32 ones as a nice upgrade. Also powerflex rear beam bushes although much easier to fit, do not have the clever dynamics of the OEM bushes. Jay

Bingo. As previously described :) Jay

There is a common misconception that coilovers or even certain dampers/springs "ruin" the ride quality of a C. But again this is often caused by everything else around them not working as it should and the feel of this is exagerated. Of course there are poorly combined dampers and springs which are just not suited to the car when fitted, but coilover springs are only £25 each or so from motorsport suppliers so people can easily change it if its too stiff for their liking and then use adjustable damping to match the springs. Don't get me wrong, I love a lowered C as much as the next man, but there are ways of doing it which have only a very small compromise in ride and often this is actually an improvement as it provides more feedback let alone the lower CofG. Without getting too technical, this does of course in turn affect the roll center and this is still the biggest problem with the VR6 at least as no-one has a solution for extending the lower ball joint yet. The other point is personal preference and how you use the car. I use my car daily, but intend to do some track time and of course enjoy a good blast down a B-road, but if you want to just go quickly round the roundabouts on your local billiard smooth bypass then thats a different requirement all together.. Jay

The funny thing is, the people who panic buy are the people who don't need it and only do 10 miles a week. If I panic bought, I would need to do it every 3 or 4 days LOL One bonus is the wifes X5 is LPG converted and that is never a problem in these situations, you just cruise up to the pump and laugh. Jay

Hard to beat a clean dark car on RS's Jay

I know its too late now, but if I had £700 to spend on your C, it might sound incredibly boring and sensible, but I would be replacing all the bushes, ball joints, bearings, brakes etc.. like I have just done. From experience over the years, fitting any suspension, however good it is, is a waste of time if everything else is not absolutely spot on first. I cannot stress enough to people how good these cars are when everything is tight solid and where it should be. Why do you think they are still so highly rated in performance driving circles. If its just the look and the "impression" of better handling you are after then fair do's, but if you want to drive the car as its supposed to be driven, get all the bushes etc.. done first. 2p Kerplink :) Jay

Cheers Abdul. I am genuinely excited about driving it with every single suspension component being new :) Jay

The nut should go on top of the rubber mount not under it!! That is why. Top be honest it must have been scary to drive like that. Jay

I must admit I never had a problem with VR type ones. Jay

I could get some poly ones made..... :)

Need a few more on this people. Bargain for front and rear uprated lifetime engine mounts.

Cheers. There is a lot of work still to do on the paint, the swirls are better, but there are still a lot of holograms as I have not gone over it properly yet. Managed to get everything undone on the subframe this evening, which is a huge relief, so it's ready to drop off tomorrow night when the new one arrives. Top caps are definitely wrong, the springs had moved past them and were resting on the underside of the body. So a few things to sort tomorrow. Going to pick up new ARB bushes and drop links on the way home tomorrow. Might aswell while I am there... :) Jay

I rather like those. :)

Done :)

Nope, tonight is just a removal exercise of the old subframe. Train to work again tomorrow! Not even got out there yet, the missus has gone out for the evening and typically the 12 week old has taken longer than normal to settle to sleep. Thankfully both she and the 2 year old are now asleep so I can get into the garage complete with baby monitor and get on with it. Jay

I try to keep you all entertained :) Pressure is on now though for the MOT at 8:30 Friday morning!!

So tonight's job is removing the subframe with the sheared off bolt in it. Fingers crossed the subframe to body bolts play ball... New BBS centre badges have arrived in the post, so they will have to go on too :) Updates later...

Yep we need a few more so I will add you too the list on the first page. Jay

Shows it on VAGCAT Here... But you need to login. http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/COR/1994/76/54/846252/ ---------- Post added at 12:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:45 PM ---------- Looking at the picture the middle two go to the rear? Jay

It certainly sounds like the mounts have seen better days. Suffice to say these hold things much more solidly than the factory mounts, but the car feels the same to be in and better to drive. Jay

Yep fit straight into the mounts for 24v conversion so no problem there. If people want shorter ones that's possible too. Jay

Cheers guys. It's getting there, still a hell of a lot to do but I am happy looking at it now. Jay

Simplest way by a long way (did it yesterday) is to undo the two 13mm bolts either side of the rear engine mount (drivers side). You can undo these from the top of the engine bay by using a really long extension. Then just jack the engine up out of the way by putting a block of wood up between the wishbone and the back of the block and jacking that up against the part of the block that sticks out. Took about 2 mins. Jay

Bump for more people to join in. Jay