OllieVR6

Keep the Stig a secret I say! Long live the Stig!

I've been watching this thread with interest (and I'm sure others have) so if you do go down this route I'd be interested in a cowling for when I DO decide to do the mod.

Do you mean the strikers? I'm guessing you don't mean the locking pins? :)

I use an orbital polisher, haven't had enough practice yet but I will move on to a rotary eventually. Thanks for the tips on the pads, sounds like the menz and hex logic pads are both good, maybe I should get a sample of each....which sizes do you use? Have either of you got some photos or links (if you've posted to DW - which I think Big Ben has?). Thanks! :clap:

I am about to replace my Megs G220 which died (piece of shit). So this is a good opportunity to also try some other pads and polish as you get some good deals if you buy at the same time. You read a lot about 'hard paint' and for a long time I called BS (paint is paint rite?!), but having machined a CTR and a Corrado I now know what they mean!! Bloody Corrado is like polishing concrete! I have been using Menzerna IP 3.02 polish with ok results, but I have now got a bottle of Power Gloss as well which I haven't tried yet. I have been using the Sonus spot pads up to this point. With the Menz IP and the sonus cutting pad it takes 3 passes to get a 'better than it was' finish, but I want more than that!! I'm hoping the power gloss will make a difference, but I also want to try some more pads too. Seeing as I will probably need 3 different grades of cutting plus 2 different sizes for each pad, you quickly start spending loads of money so I would like to know what you are using and if poss, see the results. I've seen some good results with the Menz pads, but the 3m, hex logic and lake country pads all look as well!

Plus (I'm stealing this from someone else here who said it)....you wouldn't skimp on brakes, why would you skimp on suspension?

My light has broken clips and the cover kept falling off. Bit of blue tack sorted it tho, best £1 I ever spent! And you'd never know ....well except the people that read this

I really need to know the questions that you ask to get this response!!........

I'm surprised you are struggling to sell it anyway! As far as I can tell it's a lovely example.....it is well advertised isn't it? I know it is on here, but is it on Piston Heads, Auto Trader and so on?

wow, there are some very interesting characters in this thread, makes me feel boring!

Absolutely without a doubt this for any interior plastics (dash/switches/covers etc). INFACT if you try and don't agree I'll buy it off you, I honestly think it's that great!

See, maybe I'm just being a little silly, but I keep thinking if I'm going to be spending around £700 on the coilovers, I'd rather stretch the extra £400-500 and get the KW V3s.... Anyone want to reinforce my "logic" or otherwise? Maybe I'm mad, but I don't get the logic.....the V3's are almost twice the price, it's not really 'close' (well to me anyway :D ). I'd go with the cheapo ones for now, there are plenty of people on here that run ebay coilies, and you always get the same response 'they're all right for what you pay for em'.

If (like me) you can't afford to spend much on the 'rusty bits' on the body, is it ok to get rid of the rust (especially if you can just sand it out) then prime/spray/lacquer it, to stop it getting worse. Even tho it'll be a shit job, surely it's better than rust? Until you can afford to have it professionally seen to.

I think this is a good question and one that I ask myself everyday, I really can't decide myself. At the moment I'm doing the interior, just getting it all stock, clean and tidy with a good stereo. Whilst I do that I'm keeping the engine "going" by looking after it without going OTT on making it look nice or go faster and so on. Once the interior is done I'm just going to enjoy it until something serious happens which will make the decision for me. Either the chassis will fail an MOT or the engine will die.

Damn, that was going to be my next question. I notice you've done the one under the glove box, have you tried the one under the steering wheel as well? Mine's really bad on that side.

:lol: :lol:

I like DW :(

Fixed :D

Thanks chaps! I think I'm going to stick with the stainless, might put a blob of hammerite on them so they don't stick out. I'll see how it looks.

Perhaps this has already been answered, I'm not sure, but when you drill the holes in the floor, what's underneath? It doesn't go right through under the car does it?

In that case the other number is 012 327 6 :D

If it's number 12 (which I think it is) it's N 908 159 03 gear_pic.PNG[/attachment:m7gp1y7f] Prob best wait for someone who's in the know to confirm before you order.

I think it's a joke ad purely by the fact that it's advertised in 'boring stuff' > sheds' - all the same if it really has had a remaped ecu updated ecu I bet it's pretty quick.

I'm currently 'refreshing' my wheel arches and last weekend I removed the drivers side arch liner :censored: PITA job, but that story is for another time. I want to replace the hex nuts and screws as they are all rusted, preferably with some stainless steel ones. Now in ETKA they are marked down as oval head panel screw - 4,8x16, which I have googled without much luck....I only have limited knowledge of how fasteners are sized so could someone explain what 4,8x16 means please? I thought maybe the 4,8 was supposed to be 4/8" but aren't all the sizes in ETKA metric? Also, there are a few threads around about buying stainless and where to get them from but the site that everybody links is now 'under new management' and not taking orders online anymore, so any links to well priced/stocked stainless sellers much appreciated!

I miss my long hair. At a market once and a guy bumped into me in passing and said 'oh sorry love' then went red when I turned around and realised what he'd said. As he walked off he shouted something like 'you need a hair cut mate'. Bloody cheek :lol: