g0ldf1ng3r

thank you for the thanks matt & vagstuff it is nice when people take time to offer their appreciation & it is well received :D happy to help

for the OP - here is a picture of the bypass that was in place on my valver

ha ha aint they just!! the price for them wouldn't creep up on you either, it would be a kick right in the nuts lol

thanks Neale. it will be lovely jubbly once I have aligned the light output properly I get my looms from a user called KUR2Y n here, his name is Zak. you have probably already read why I prefer his looms over others he has been very busy lately & as such not been very active on here but I do know that if you act quickly he is currently intending to make a few up check here m8 & drop him a message http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?41616-Uprated-Headlight-looms-for-2013&p=1090204#post1090204 "the uprated loom he say let there be light" :D

they also make an extremely tasty twin screw charger for the G60 :D

well that is good news to start with :) you could try pouring some water directly onto the scuttle part above the foliage mesh cover to try to test if the seal under the foliage mesh needs replacing my issue was the scuttle thing above was twisted & letting water directly into the top of the foliage mesh does your sunroof work? (sorry I couldn't recall) if it does then clearing the drains is easy with an air line. just open on full slide & then blow out the small tube in each corner. then pour a touch of water down each & watch to see if it comes out behind the wings/rear quarters

welcome - look forward to seeing the G :)

blimey cold out there ok so, in my VR, hold the break pedal down, put key in ignition, turn key to on (but don't start car) & as the key turns feel a clunk / doing under foot & is slightly audible

hmmm I am fairly sure it is quite a distinct pulse but I will go check now for you as im in the VR today (valver hasn't got ABS thank fook lol)

fitting of KUR2Y 3 relay uprated headlight loom (chuggs1 I will try & be as detailed as possible for you) firstly, I need to scan the guide Zak does for his looms but I left it at home today in essence it is mainly a case of disconnecting things & then reconnecting them, with a little opportunistic cleaning here & there lol (for those that do not know I prefer, personally, the looms Zak makes as he uses 3 relays. one for each side dipped beam & then one for main beam. this means that should a dipped beam relay fail you will only loose the relevant side dipped beam light. handy if on country lanes when this happens & an advantage over the 2 relay versions) tools required: Philips screwdriver, socket set with extension bars, 10mm spanner, electrical tape, cable ties, cable tie tidy things (adhesive backed plastic things shown in pics to help secure cable ties in desired locations) first of all disconnect the battery terminals & then take the battery out of the car so as access is easier - socket extension bar handy here as the bolt holding the battery clamp is quite far down remove the front grille taking care not to break any of the tabs as they are very delicate (FYI this is the 3rd loom install I have done & if possible the job is made much easier if you can get the headlights out but it can be done with them in place) disconnect the electrical plug connecting the headlights to the factory loom - gently prise the metal clip up to release the connector with a flat head screw driver there are 3 screws holding each of the headlights in place - 2 on the top & then one hidden one visible through the peep holes. be prepared to have a battle to remove the hidden ones! it is recommended to put some release spray on them a few hours/days earlier. once they are removed the headlight should wriggle out. there are 2 thick plastic tabs on the headlight underside which locate into slots on the slam panel, they can be quite a tight fit so wriggle but carefully with the lights out I gave them a quick wipe over & then installed the new bulbs. personally I use Ring Xenon Max bulbs & find them to be awesome when powered by an uprated loom. FYI by taking the headlights out it makes changing the bulbs a thousand times easier as god damn those clips are tricky!! I also took the opportunity to clean the slam panel under where this lights sit as it was bloody filthy - it is not an easy place to clean with the light in place ok so loom time... this is difficult to describe but hopefully the pics will show it ok put the loom in by the battery location & then feed the drivers side of the lead between the radiator fan housing & the headlight location such that it protrudes out of the slam panel where the grill would be feed along the slam panel, under the horns, & then back into the drivers side engine bay in a similar as the passenger side don't bother securing it all yet as that will be done last so as to get it positioned nicely once loom is loosely where you want it go to the drivers side, rest the headlight on the bumper & your knee so as to steady it. take the new loom connections, you will see the wires match the colours of those in the factory loom which you disconnected, & plug the female spades into the headlight taking care to match the wires colours & positions. when looking at the factory loom they are (as per pic included): brown = top left white = top right yellow = bottom left grey = bottom right still on the drivers side - there is also a small grey wire with a male spade a few inches back from the female spades, this needs to be plugged into the corresponding female socket in the factory loom IE grey to grey once confident these are correct take your time to seal both ends up nicely with electrical tape. again on the headlight end this is much easier if you have removed the headlight the driver side headlight can now be reinstalled & over to the passenger side passenger side - just behind the headlight recess you will see a 2 yellow connectors plugged together. this is the dim-dip feature which needs to be disabled. thus unplug them from each other, tape them up nicely & wedge in somewhere to stop them rattling position the light same as before, take the female connectors on the new loom & once again plug them into the headlight matching the wire colours. tape up as per drivers side & reinstall headlight next is to connect the new loom to the power source - take the negative lead on the loom & connect it to the negative battery terminal thingy (10mm spanner time), then do the same for the positive power end try to position the loom wires & relays out of the way whilst you jiggle the battery back into the car (a 2nd pair of hands or some clips come in handy here) reattach battery clamp, again taking care not to trap any of the loom or wiring in that area. at this point it is timely to review all you work for all the above steps to double check everything is in the right place & attached ok prior to reconnecting the battery. once happy reconnect the battery. start the car & then check sidelights, dipped beam & main beam. if done correctly you will see a huge difference in light output for the 2 latter :D now it is just a case of tidying & securing the install. personally I try to position the loom so as it holds itself away from any potential sharp metal edges but if it has to go past some, which it does, then I put a few extra winds of electrical tape in that section to restrict any chaffing this last bit is easier to grasp in picture so I will let them do the rest of the talking. all in I'd say it took me about 3 hours but I was taking my time & had a few tea breaks lol - it could be done in under an hour easy once loom is secured op your grill back in & then check the light output for height & adjust accordingly - I still need to do this last bit as it was far too low when I checked it last night

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?91993-Wheeler-Dealers 34 pages of thoughts there m8 ;)

fingers crossed for you fella

best intentions eh & all that lol

IIRC you can test the brake pedal position sensor by holding down the brake pedal as you turn the ignition on if it is working properly you should feel a short pulse in your foot through the pedal

no but I do know that it is recommended to get a Valeo branded one also - make sure you get the latest revision for the VR one as when Stealth replaced my clutch it took 3 attempts due to an issue with the release bearing making horrible chirping noises something to do with the release bearing shedding its internal grease onto the clutch plate IIRC - in the end vince had to get a valeo rep in to see it but they sorted it in the end also worth checking your clutch release arm as they are prone to bending/breaking & might be timely to replace it whilst the box is off

hi m8 I have a full update planned & took lots of pictures for you my apologies though as I had full intention of taking lots of staged photos but then got wrapped up in the job & didn't remember until it was all nearly back together however, as I find with most jobs if you assess the job in hand so as you know the various steps prior to starting, make sure you have the correct tools & then take your time things tend to go ok until you hit a hiccup (like one of the hidden headlight screws not coming out for example) I also need to scan the guide & PM you a copy it is a fairly simple job m8 & I think my biggest challenge will be to now adjust the light angle as they were pointing too far down

also - again from experience - check the thin plastic square ish shaped housing that covers your foliage cover its is on the passenger side just below the wind screen I had an issue where water was getting into the passenger footwell due to the above housing cover not being refitted correctly & was basically allowing the water to run straight into the open mesh of the foliage cover I would also recommend lifting the passenger carpet up & removing the hard backed liner underneath it. the liner has a cushioning material on it which acts like a sponge. I didn't realise quite how much water it held until I removed it & started to dry it off

to the OP - my build thread also shows a simple matrix bypass so as you can compare to your own ;)

update to come late as I managed to fit the uprated headlight loom on sunday :D

if you do replace the matrix try to make sure you get a Valeo branded one as most others are rather inferior also, I have a full guide with lots of pictures if that would help you. drop me a PM with your email addy & I can send it you have a read of my build thread http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?44751-g0ldf1ng3r-s-VR-amp-1-8-16V-the-valver-has-heat!! if you want to see what you are facing as I have not long done one hints are: hopefully have a garage to do it it, take your time, decent socket set & spanners, a coolant hose spring clamp tool (essential!!!!), lots of sticky labels, lots of envelopes to label & put the various screws etc in Oh & from my experience it is worth renewing the heater box lining on the large flap which moves to control hot or cold air feed. I didn't do mine & as such although I get nice warm air it is not as toasty as in my VR

having done the matrix in my valver I have no idea how anyone could wrestle the heater box out with the dash in it was tricky enough not to twist or harm the Bowden cables with all the dash out of the way

no danger Zak I got the new one you made for me fitted in the valver yesterday. A fine bit of work once again, thank you. with addition of the ring xenon max bulbs the light output was awesome last night :D

no problem m8 Zak has replied to my email to say he will log on here & check when he has a free moment

closing

ha ha sorry to disappoint I knew I should have mentioned them ;) lol