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corradovr6sc

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Everything posted by corradovr6sc

  1. An alternative would be to buy a second hand AMS or Eurotech Racing kit which are essentially the same as the C2 kit (same charger and brackets but have silicone pipework instead of metal) for about $2000. Then you can buy any extras from C2.
  2. Good idea to replace the two rubber water pipes on the heat exchanger and the oil cooler seals. Defo do the thermostat and possibly the blue coolant sensor.
  3. I've got a spare coilpack chip if you need it?
  4. Vortech chargers are all quite similar. The V2 (or V1) has a larger impeller, doesn't spin as fast as the v9 but shifts more air (good for big hp). The V9 is a more compact charger with a smaller impeller so needs to spin faster than the V2 to produce the same boost. They both have helical cut gears so are fairly quiet in operation. The V9 uses different mounting brackets to the V2/V1 on a vr6.
  5. I'm pretty sure you don't have to remove the coilpack.
  6. I found pilfering it from another VW site a lot easier :)
  7. It's the one with three electrical connectors on the top rhs of the alternator.
  8. There's usually a central locking pump for sale on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 21841&rd=1
  9. If you want a noticable power increase go for the charger. You won't regret it. It's a reliable option too.
  10. You have to hold the cable sleeve and pull the cable with a pair of pliers whilst you get a mate to pull up on the bonnet. The clip is available separately from VW and you have to pull the cable through the bulkhead to replace the clip.
  11. I'm pretty sure it's just a push fit with a o-ring at the water pump end.
  12. I've got the same alarm. Try pointing the fob at the grille/bonnet and holding the button down until the alarm sets/or the door open. Someone told me this when my fob was loosing the signal from the alarm. Might be worth a try.
  13. Did you torque the bolts up to spec?
  14. Having a filter prevents oil fumes from crankcase going into the intake and throttlebody which can cause bad idling/running. The downside is the oil vapour will drip onto the exhaust manifold and create fumes inside the car. Another option is to run a pipe from the crankcase breather to the floor so the fumes don't get drawn into the cars ventilation system.
  15. That's not as long as I thought. The one I have is a single sided, 7 rib 61 1/8" but you need one which is about 53". I'm using a 60.5" non-ac belt but the Vf-charger must be setup differently requiring a shorter belt. I'm running the c2 dual idler pulley so no problems with tension which is achieved through belt wrap instead :)
  16. Guy, how come your serp belt shreds? I've got a spare one which might fit your car. Send me a pm if you don't want to clog the thread.
  17. I cut a bit out of the plastic on mine so I could get the adjusting tool in but I'm sure they fitted ok without modification.
  18. I've heard of that happening before on FI cars with variable manifolds but I think it's very rare. However some people apply loctite to the bolts which hold the flap just in case.
  19. I'm using a usb - serial converter and it works fine. Check out skpang - sells all the converter cables etc.
  20. I bought a nice 'car jack' battery from Makro for £30 and its rated at 75.
  21. If you want vag-com leads and adaptors/extentions look at: http://www.skpang.co.uk
  22. The sensor is located inbetween the airbox and throttlebody elbow. Don't think they are repairable. Cheapest place I found was from a Bosch dealer, £150 exchange.
  23. Does anyone do a baffled sump for the vr6 or can the existing sump be modified to prevent oil starvation? I'd go for option 3.
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