corradovr6sc
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Everything posted by corradovr6sc
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Mods - could you add this link to the first page as a source for vag-com cables etc: http://www.skpang.co.uk
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cheers :)
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Does anybody know where to buy a tool for gapping sparkplugs? thanks :)
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Picked up my first raddo at the weekend!
corradovr6sc replied to NickVR6's topic in General Car Chat
I think the alarm might be a Vag 5000 (scorpion). -
Good Salesman & Good Buyer Thread
corradovr6sc replied to VR6's topic in Site Comments and Questions
Thanks to Carl (bigpants baby) for the fuel rail. Fast delivery and v. well wrapped! -
I've done about 80 laps from 4 trips. Best time I got was 9 mins 15 secs with a standard engine. I've gone round quite a bit faster with the charger on but haven't timed the lap but know is was under 9 minutes. Shows what a good track car the rado is.
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Quick update. I've swapped my ecu and the car now starts but isn't firing on all cylinders. There are no fault codes. I've pulled the HT leads and found that the front bank of cylinders have spark but there is no spark to the rear cylinders. Does this mean the coilpack is shot? thanks in advance:)
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found a link with specs etc : http://www.lotuseliseworld.com
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Yes they're right. I'd definitely get it done at that mileage.
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Clean out the isv and throttlebody and check for vacuum leaks. Replacing the fuel pump relay may help, if it's not the isv etc.
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I'd suggest buying a second-hand vortech kit from the US which costs $2000-2500 (£1000-250) which will be cheaper than the UK price even with the shipping and tax added on.
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You have to take the plastic cover (right side of the engine, above the coilpack) off first, then the guide slides off.
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I'm sure that's the price without fitting.
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If you release the front engine mount and jack the engine up it gives a lot better access to the manifold bolts.
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I had my car dynoed with the charger alone and with the charger and vgi together and the peak power and torque was identical. The vgi does give a nice bit of extra shove low down though so it's worth keeping. I've sold mine now as I decided to go for more boost instead. On the subject of reliability, I haven't had any problems as a result of having a charger, just the usual vr6 niggles, so in my experience s/c would be a good option.
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AMD used to offer an s/c kit for the vr6 (can't remember whether it was for the mrk3 or 4)
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Traction isn't a big problem as the power is quite progressive. On a dry road wheelspin isn't at all excessive. In fact I rarely get the wheels spinning, only in first gear on full throttle. Obviously the tyres get a bit overwhelmed in wet conditions but otherwise it isn't an issue if you're sensible.
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You just have to replace the clip by removing the sleeving and pulling the cable through the hole in the bulkhead. Think eurocarparts sells vr6 radiators for about £80.
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Could be the air intake sensor on the manifold.
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After a bit of investigating I've found that the ecu is getting no power (across any of the pins) and the buzzing noise I described is being cause by the ECU relay (109). I've replaced the ecu relay but the problem persists. The question is what would cause the ecu not to power up - Could the ecu be dead? Is there anything else to check? thanks :)
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Thanks Kevhaywire, My ecu ends in AG so I haven't got the built-in immobiliser. My aftermarket alarm/immobiliser is ok. Is it worth changing the ignition switch? The strange thing is, there's an electrical buzzing around the steering column/fusebox area when the key is turned (when the engine is cranking) and when the key is released. Does this point towards the ignition switch as the culprit?
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Replaced the ecu relay without any results. Is it possible that it's the ignition switch as the ignition has to be turned on for vag-com to work? If the ignition switch isn't working, would this stop vag-com accessing the ecu? anybody?
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I think I'll change the ECU relay as the ecu is probably not getting power which may explain why vag-com isn't working.
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Just a quick update, when I turn the key something buzzes aound the fusebox/ ignition which is probably related.