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Took the ISV and the damper box off, the foam from inside the box had been pushed out into one of the pipes blocking it. We removed the foam and gave it a clean, man was it dirty! Anyway cleaned it up and reattached it with the original ISV. It started with a bit of throttle so i turned her off and started it up without throttle. Again she started and after watching the revs fluctuate slightly she stalled. Started it again and it was better but i wasn't convinced as the revs still seemed high. So we tried the spare ISV in the garage but that turned out to be knackered so binned that. Tried the original ISV with a 12v battery in the garage and although it opened, it didn't open fully, there was still about 1mm left before it was fully open. So I took the ISV off of my 16v (same part numbers) and did the same test, it opened fully so I fitted that one instead. Started the VR and she started fine, revs were good, took it for a drive and she responded well. Connected VAG-COM and checked all the readings and they were pretty good. I think perhaps the ISV needs another clean, i had removed it before and gave it a bit of a clean when I replaced the damper box but maybe it needs something a bit more thorough...At least she starts again and i can come along to the RR day! :)

Ugh, I hope the damper didn't explode as I've only just replaced it as the one that came with the car was all cracked :(. I've got a spare isv so can test that but why would it have popped?

Thanks, but now I've got a problem, all this talk of the rolling road and now the VR won't start :(

OK guys, went to start the VR and as i turned the key i heard a pop, it was kind of mid-high pitched and ever since the car won't start on its own, it sounded like a hose coming off or something under pressure but the engine was cold, its not cold enough for the water to freeze and there aren't any leaks visible. It will start with throttle but wont idle and it then dies. There is a strong smell of fuel afterwards. I have checked the fuses and they all look fine so the pop wasn't one of those, plus the sound came from the engine bay. I've had the bonnet up and had a quick inspection with a torch and cannot see anything amiss. I put her on VAG-COM and it flagged up:- 533 - Idle Speed Regulation and another one starting in 5xx but i can't remember which one it was and in my hurry i didnt save the codes. W towed the car to my dads so i cannot check VAG-COM again till tomorrow. Any ideas what it could be causing it not to start and also what might have gone bang!

Ill be there, except I'll be coming off of the A422, do you mean the Esso garage off Ermont way?

Ive got a fair amount of valver parts to try and sell off so i'll bring stuff along. Where abouts can we sell stuff though?

I could meet at banbury...would be cool to travel in convoy as I don't think anyone else from the mk area is going. Although the quickest route would mean I travel alone..

I come bearing pictures! I thought I'd give it a bit of a clean, it had been stored since I removed it from my donor car to port and polish it and put it onto my rebuilt valver but since I've now got a VR it is spare

I have one, i should be near mansfield next saturday if you want to meet part way?

Ah i see, ok i'll leave it alone then! Saves me the hassle of spending hours trying to find out where it goes!

Does anyone know where this goes? It is down the front near the alternator. The car is a 94 VR6. It is a single cable (looks like it should go onto a sensor), think it is yellow with a black chaser (or visa versa) I cant see any sensors but theres not a lot of breathing space in the engine bay without taking the intake manifold off.

Cool, thanks, hopefully the engine will run a bit healthier now :D (and maybe a bit healthier on my wallet)

Well the damper box was f'bared completely (see pics), it was taped up by the previous owner when and we retaped it while i ordered a second hand one which i fitted over the weekend, but it was a lot worse than i thought (no sponge inside at all!), also the crankcase breather valve broke so i did a bit of the ol' diy on that, no pictures of the broken valve but broke in the same place as the images on here --> http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?55472-Crankcase-breather-valve..../page2 Is there anything I can do to stop it running rich? or is it always going to be like that due to age/mileage?

I too had this problem, broke in the same place, and after contacting Ford and finding out that it was £36 ex vat, money i didnt have, i thought 'sod it, its already broken, lets see if i can fix it' So i removed both broken parts and replaced it with a single hose to fill the void and plugged the small hose coming from the top while i thought of a way to solve the broken pipe. First things first was to take it apart, now i dont have any pictures of this but its a very basic part with a bit of rubber in it which, if air is drawn the in a certain way will restrict the air flow. That is pretty much it, the hose section that broke was basically a 'T' shape, with the top part being rubber welded through the plastic. I took the part to my dads and sorted through various things to replace the 'T' hose. I cleaned up all the old rubber and found a piece of threaded brass pipe work that was a perfect fit! After cutting a few bits off of the brass pipe i found a rubber washer, fitted it all and glued it back up. Needless to say i tested it by blowing through it and blocking all the exits and there was no gaps or holes so i cut the threaded part down (was about 3inchs long) so it would fit onto the car, fitted it and so far so good! Goes to show that with a bit of ingenuity the stealers cant take our money! Hopefully it will last, i may replace it later down the road but if it works then why bother right now! Apologies for the slightly blurry pictures, they were taken from my phone. You might notice a small piece of clear tubing, as the brass pipe, plus additional hose, were slightly longer than the original i had to alter the position of the breather valve for it to sit properly so the small vacuum outlet was underneath instead of on top. I had the brass pipe in the garage but if you were to purchase something (which would be a fraction of the cost of a new one) then you could get something a bit smaller than the part i used.

Ok, so after replacing the suspect parts creating air leaks and resetting the ECU i now have values of: O2 active im getting between 0.961 and 1.016, Idle Adapted Value 0.977, Part throttle adapted value 0.922 and full throttle adapted value 1 Are these better or am I now running rich?

Cool, thanks for your help :)

Number 5? IIRC i think it was a bit stiff/sticking, can they be taken off and cleaned, or what is the best way of adjusting it?

and i do that how? lol Battery unplug for 30mins?

My car also judders, practically all the time when i come off of acceleration, the whole car seems to jolt. I havent had any fault codes reported. It does run a bit lumpy but isnt down on power i dont think

If, or when i find the air leak will the lambda readings alter automatically, or do i have to reset them or similar?

I made one that buzzes if you have your lights on and switch off the the ignition, it also buzzes if the keys are left in the ignition and the door opened and the engine not running. It does use an annoying buzzer from maplin as i wasnt sure where to get a two tone one from...

I dont suppose anyone else is coming from the milton keynes/bucks area?

Alas, there are no more MK meets, the last one we tried there was only about 5 of us :(

That doesn't fill me with much confidence...

Yeah, I'll post up the outcome after ive swapped them over and rescanned it All i can find on error code 00280 is this thread, but his code just disappeared... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56290-Please-help-me-end-my-ABS-nightmare!-Fixed...ish! there isnt even anything on the Ross Tech wiki!