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I see, whats the best thing to do that with? Would standard grease do the job?

Holy thread revival batman! Ok so heres the issue, car stalls/runs badly from start up (its a 94 coilpack VR6 before you ask). It was suggested to check and clean the isv, when i took it off i found that the damper box was taped up and seriously cracked (see pics) since i didnt have anything to replace it with dad coated the whole damper box in filler to try and stop any air leaks etc until i was able to replace it. Not realising what it was and that it could be bypassed before reading this thread Anyway i tested the isv with a 12v source and it clicked happily so i went about cleaning it. I didnt have any gunk/petrol/carb cleaner so dad suggested white spirit. Not knowing any better i used it. Anyway put it all back together and drove it home from dads house and it cut out about 6 times...turned out i hadnt reattached the vacuum tube. So after reattaching the tube and taking it for a drive it didnt cut out but she now runs lumpy and smells rich, obviously it could be something else but could this be down to cleaning the isv with white spirit? Please excuse the ignorance!

I have found that the front seats in my new VR are heated, or at least have a loom and socket under the seat and want to get them set up. Does anyone know if theres anyway to make the heated seats work with the switch from a Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambra. They look basically the same as the Corrados, however instead of being square they have radius edges so a blank could be cut to make it fit... http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2988358-DIY-Heated-seats-for-cars-not-pre-wired!! The link above shows a diy wiring loom for a mk3/mk4 heated seat set up. See attached picture for the shape of the Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambra switch. Since heated switches/looms for the Corrado are so hard to come by/so expensive I was wondering whether this might be a viable solution. What do you guys think?

Are there any other VAG standard steering wheels that will fit onto the Corrado steering column? VagCat states that the nut to hold the steering wheel on the column is the same for the Polo up to (and including) mk3, Golf up to (and including) mk4 and subsequent Jetta/Bora, Passat upto and including B4, are identical part number N 90550002, thread BM16X1,5 but obviously i dont know if that makes a difference to spline size etc... Likewise with the steering columns, the part which looks like the splined area have identical part numbers (see pic, part 2a) There are a few steering wheels on eBay which are from the mk3 golf and look identical to the corrados...and i would also hazard a guess that if they fit the 4 spokes ones i'd imagine would also fit, along with the ones with airbags but you would have to disable the airbag function (although they're not very nice to look at...) More research goes on to show that the later passats/golfs etc that use the 'bulging' steering wheel, have a very similar part number for the splined bit: Corrado: 191 419 514 Passat/Golf: 377 419 514 I know people have done interior swaps and have used a mk4 steering wheel, but obviously i what i dont know is whether they have used a different steering column or modded/used an adapter for the mk4 steering wheel

yeah pretty much, lights were flickering and i had to give it a bit of throttle to stop it stalling

Mine has developed this issue this morning, doesnt start very well and has a rough idle till ive driven it for a few miles. She also stalled after about 100 yards...

Ok my VR has developed a few problems :( - ABS light is now continuously on - struggles to start - idles roughly after starting and stalled about 100 yards down the road - exhaust sounds a rough at the downpipe Apart from obviously holes in the exhaust what should I be looking for to solve the other issues

As Joby said, the later 2.0 head gaskets are steel however I was told (by the guy who skimmed my head) that if you use a composite gasket they are more forgiving for slight inaccuracies in the head. The manifold is 50mm on the KR iirc but from what I've read it doesn't make a huge amount of difference but if you want one I've got one for sale. Hope the block is still running alright Joby!

Haha, I've got to fix the faults first! What are the normal running temps for the VR? On the way back, 100 mile trip, doing about 80mph on the M1, water was between 70-80 and oil 98-108. I just want to check that these temps are fine as it seems theres quite a bit i need to learn about the VR

I'm not a big fan of the wheels either, but as winter is coming up I think i'll leave them on there for the time being until I can find some better and larger wheels. James you were correct, engine bay states Sherry Pearl, which according to you and this thread http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?37863-Paint-Codes is LC2U however all three stickers (boot, engine bay and service book) have the code LP7Z... I guess that makes searching for a replacement door harder as I've not seen many people breaking a Sherry Pearl car! Is Blackberry lighter than Sherry Pearl? As the bonnet is lighter than the rest of the car where they obviously used either the wrong paint or took it from the wrong car

It had a service 3k miles ago and fluids looked alright when i checked them, brakes and pads were done last year. Sticker in the boot states LP7Z which is apparently light grey metallic!? It definitely hasn't been painted before as I have the very first v5 document in my receipts folder and it states red...

I don't know, I mean, I only spent £1525 for the car which in the grand scheme of things isnt a lot, and VRs are going for anywhere between £1400+ but I've never spent this much on a car ever (purchase price) and i think i was perhaps expecting a little bit more. The previous owner wasn't quite honest with everything and yes it's what happens with a buy on eBay especially if you haven't been to see the car. I guess perhaps i wasn't expecting to have to do anything 'major' to the car, as i was after a VR that i could pretty much drive right away. My 16v was purchased as a project and like many before it has been laid to the Corrado illness of always having something wrong I was hoping that at least from the start, for the money i was spending i could have something that didnt need more spending to get it up to scratch. Yes i understand its a 17year old car and you cant expect perfection... Maybe its just me being stupid and naive... As for the exhaust, when the car is idle there is no popping and she purrs beautifully, like you said it happens when you slow down and take your foot off of the accelerator...

So, after 2 years of owning a 16v 2.0 I thought it was time for an upgrade. I've always wanted a VR since I saw my first Corrado but although insurance costs are very similar the initial purchase cost was far too high. Anyway I won a bid on a 1994 Blackberry VR with 141k miles and I collected it today. The car was located in Mansfield so about 100miles back to Milton Keynes, luckily my friend was going to Sheffield to see his sister so I caught a lift. The guy selling the Corrado bought it in June and has used it as a daily driver but needed a van so had to sell it. He also has a Karmann convertible beetle and a T2, both of which are in amazing condition. The pics of the VR on eBay were pretty good with the usual dings and a few scratches and he said there was a bit of rust on one of the arches. Turned out it was the front o/s so it is easily replaced. Unfortunately one thing he didnt mention was that someone previously tried to break into the car and there is a hole underneath the drivers door handle...The bonnet had been replaced a few years ago and is a slightly different colour and both bumpers could do with a bit of a touch up. It has a full black leather interior which is in fair condition however another thing he neglected to tell me (even though i asked for all the details etc) was that there are 2 small tears on the drivers seat, about 2inches long each. Other than that its in a pretty good condition. Strangely it doesnt have a sunroof and has the larger 90mm splitter even though i thought all VR's had the 50mm one? I was swayed i think by the full service history that came with the car, there is a folder full of receipts and the service book has been stamped up to 138k. I thought i'd go through all the reciepts and there has been no expense spared on the car! There are some receipts for over £1k, some close to £2k and one that is £2.8k! I added them all up and it is quite staggering.. Total is at least £18500 with nearly £7500 of that being spent in the past 2 years by own owner.... I also found out that the car was first owned by VAG of Blakelands...in Milton Keynes!!! So i was bringing her home in more ways than one.. One of the owners was also a member of CCGB as his card was still in the leather book and possibly a member of the forum, if anyone recognises the reg plate it would be great to talk to him/her! The car comes with a thatcham 1 certified Cobra alarm, headlight loom, Alpine 113bt stereo (which I will be selling) with 6 x 9s in a cut parcel shelf (blurgh), a Momo steering wheel (again going to be selling), lowered on Bilstein sport suspension with black and silver Speedlines, it also has a Milltek cat back exhaust, still has the warning triangle (but sadly no first aid kit) and Aero blades on Lupo/TT arms...theres probably others I have missed. All electrics work including the spoiler and the heating on all settings I do have a few bits that need sorting: - drivers door handle sticks - alarm doesnt seem to work with anything other than the drivers door possibly due to: - interior light not working with the doors open - rear window demister switch needs swapping - headlining is sagging - sort out switch and heating panel lighting - hole in drivers door - replace stereo and speakers I'm not sure how I feel just yet as I feel a bit cheated however she drove well, pulled nicely in all gears, tracking is good and there is next to no wheel wobble. She does sound awesome in a tunnel though!...ask me in a week and I'll have a better answer! I do have a question about the exhaust though, is it supposed to pop before/after you change gear? and if anyone could advise/assist in sorting the headlining, leather seat and 'holey' door it would be much appreciated These are pictures that the seller emailed me before I put a bid in so you can see why I bidded. More pictures to follow! Now I've got to work out what to do with my Valver

they reckoned that they couldn't insure my vr on classic because its not over 20 years old...

what alarm system have you got installed? Some older alarms (like my old clifford) had a toggle switch to turn the alarm off if the car was going in for a service/mot etc...

Yeah that was me lol, picking it up on Saturday, hope it is as good as it looked. The large history helped sway me as my valver has next to none...

Can you put me down as a maybe (for 2 sets)? Im not picking the car up until the weekend and obviously don't know if i need them or not...

Yeah, technically speaking it would still be a valver! But there'd probably be too many issues I think, the diff and rear subframe probably being the worst of all...

Ok, don't hate me for this one.... So I've just bought a VR after 2 years of owning my 2.0 16v and I'm not entirely convinced that the Valver will sell. Mechanically she runs fine but there are a few discrepancies with the paintwork which might put people off, i've lived with them for 2 years and it hasnt bothered me (was like it when i bought it). I might be wrong as I haven't advertised it, or gauged any interest on it Anyway, I potentially have access to a 220bhp Sierra Cosworth engine for free (the shell has been totally abused and the engine could probably do with a strip down)....can you see where this is going... How much work do you think would be involved to put the cossie into the valver shell...obviously there'd be issues with the rwd system as the Corrado isnt designed for it but there are a few on here who have managed to get 4wd working on their cars.... It would be a long process and would probably require lots of custom parts but would it be viable, or am i being stupid and should i just put it into a Capri like I was originally intending on doing... I've just realised how stupid that all is but Im going to post it anyway...

I just bought a VR6 and it doesnt have a sunroof, its a 1994 reg

Its rubbing the metal on the arch so can't do anything about that. Yeah my concern was that they might be too wide

Yeah fouling the arch, surely a 5mm spacer would only give me 6/7mm in the hub whereas the above spacer with a 50mm bolt will give me a similar length in the hub

Right guys need a bit of advice, my wheels are fouling the bodywork and failed the MOT due to this. Turning the track rod ends doesnt help it just causes the wheels to toe out drastically and the garage said that my only other options were to either use slimmer wheels or use spacers. I've got some 27mm spacers at home and since time is running out as it is thursday already and I go back to work on Monday I don't have time to wait for anything to turn up if i order it (ie slimmer spacers) what length bolts can i get away with using? Theres a guy selling 50mm length bolts not to far away from me and I should be able to get them tomorrow ready for a retest tomorrow afternoon/saturday morning however obviously i dont want to buy some and them not fit/not be suitable. I have read online that about 4/5 turns should be more than enough in the hub and I have gauged this with an existing bolt and it gives me around 9mm of thread in the hub (on 5 turns). The bolt sticks out about 13mm from the back of the wheel and added with the spacer leaves me 10mm....to go into the hub. I'm also hoping that a 27mm spacer won't cause the wheel to stick out of the arch, my existing wheels are 205 and ET35 If anyone can clarify this for me it would be greatly appreciated Regards, Jason

Cool thanks for the replies I'll get cutting then!

The top mounts on my front suspension have gone and while deciding to replace those I thought it best to sort out various rubbers on the rears seeing as they haven't been put on the car yet. I've currently got Koni TAs and after removing the spring from the rears and the bumpstop I have noticed that the standard one I ordered from VWspares is much bigger than the one on the Koni, which is understandable since they are lowered shocks/springs. The one on the Koni looks like it has been cut to fit rather than a suitable one for the shock. My question is what size should it be, the original one is about 145mm whereas the cut one was about 95mm. Should I cut the new (standard one) down to the same size or can someone help me? Ideally someone who has the same set up and has replaced theirs. Cheers!