eugopnosaj

Whoa! Hmmm wonder where mine came from then....got it off of __Andy__ on here

Yeah should have mentioned that, however if you do want to use 12v leds in those switches you'll need to remove the resistors that are already there and solder in a bridge otherwise the the 12v LEDS will be dim Its a pita because instead of conventional LEDs it used SMDs (surface mounted diodes) and they're tiny and dont have legs...you cant remove the pcb and the solder joins are all on the top of the board. Theres plently of room for standard 3mm or 5mm LEDs though its just getting them soldering onto the board that is a bit annoying, especially since you can't remove the board (not easily anyway, if you REALLY want to you can unsolder the socket pins then solder them back on again, thats how i did my window switches) the 2 closest to the edge are the most awkward the image is just to show size, ignore the 1 smd = 3 leds... Edit also you wont need 12v LEDs for the sunroof switch as it already has a resistor on the board so standard 3-5v LEDs will be fine (otherwise you'll have to remove the resistor). Be careful when trying to remove them though, if you pull it too hard without melting the solder you'll pull the copper strip off of the pcb and then you're f***ed lol

IIRC the slam panel and subframe should be fine, however depends how 'early' early is. The early 'rados didnt have PAS so if you get one like i did without PAS you'll have to drill holes in it

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?48792-16v-wiring-diagram&p=627839#post627839 download the wiring diagrams from there, you should find all the information in one of those pdfs

If you buy 12v LEDs you dont need resistors, standard LEDs are about 5v which is why you'd need a resistor... I replaced all of mine with standard 5v leds plus resistors as i bought *ahem* 100 on ebay and they came with the resistors (they were cheap!), even managed to do the sunroof switch which is a pita!

I think mine is special, I've got an early with the variable intermittent wipe and I'm pretty sure the relay is standard AND I've got full sunroof closure with one touch open both sides and one touch closure on the drivers side

The late switches wont fit into the easrly door cards anyway so you'd have to hack at that too, I agree with pumbaa about just replacing the switch for an early...

Horizontal it works with the central locking, vertical is always locked and north east 45 deg is unlock from the key. Sounds to me like there's an issue with the vacuum pipe from the central locking

Noble m12 GTO uses mk1 Mondeo rear lights and number plate plinth... sorry about the poor image!

Pretty sure earlys and lates are the same fitment so...

I took my lock barrels to TPS last year and they tumbled them for free for me, got them to do 2, they said they couldn't charge me for some reason...

Haha, no prob, happy to help, just hopefully this is the issue and nothing too major. If the vacuum pipes are still there then you should be able to re fit the pumps but the likelihood however is that since your handles are delocked the previous owner had fitted the aftermarket kit to allow the car to be remotely locked/unlocked as the corrado didnt have remote central locking as VAG standard. If you did refit the pumps then you could get the Clifford fitted to the car and use that system to control the VAG vacuum pump system, it can be a bit annoying but would work better with the Clifford alarm system (as you'd only need one keyfob to unlock/lock the car)

You'll be looking for something like this: The VAG ones are white and have vacuum tubes attached to them (either white or orange) they will also have a black socket (with 4 cables/pins) attached to them which splits into a second wire (with 3 wires/pins), the aftermarket ones are usually black and have 2 or 5 cables (the master actuator has 5 cables and is usually in the drivers side whereas slave actuators only have 2 cables which you *should* find in the passengers side if you're running those) The VAG pump is tucked right near the lock but there is a hole in the door where you can see the top of the pump; you will see a black clip attached to a metal rod directly underneath where the door pins would have been. If its aftermarket it might still be in the same place though. As Alex said, take some photos and post them on here!

Im going to assume that since it is only locking the passenger door the aftermarket kit is using separate actuators in each of the doors. It works by pushing the locking rods instead of using the factory vacuum unit, hence why it might be missing. (i might be wrong though) Have you always had problems? Have you had the doorcards off before?

I didn't have any irwins when i did mine so i just cut it off, but the irwins sound like a better option, plus they seem to be a very handy tool to have

I'll have a look tomorrow, hopefully I can at least eliminate 1 out of the 4 noises its developed the past few weeks haha

Fluid was changed last month (vw green) as was the belt and have had the pump off before (loosened it too much when trying to get the alternator belt off, same time as belt changes), checked the tension a couple of weeks ago and it seemed ok but the car doesnt get used a huge amount so it might have worked itself loose, will check again at the weekend as it wasnt making these noises before the belt was replaced.... :scratch: If it is the pump i do have another one but i dont know if it works

Fuse 21 viewtopic.php?f=19&t=99586

Cool thanks, I'll have a look, is the valve easy enough to get to from underneath the car?

Yeah, the headlight switch connectors on the back are the same for early and late over here, the heater controls however are different and so is the PAS light, and i think, but can't remember, the fogs and rear demister connectors are different also. I replaced most of my loom when i swapped mine over as it had been butchered (still need to do the rest) so I can't remember however I do still have some of the early loom and might be able to check

My power steering whines but only when i move it, however it doesn't only happen at full lock, it happens when i turn the wheel only slightly. I don't think the belt is too tight (it was replaced just before Christmas) and it doesn't whine when the car starts. I've recorded a video from inside the car in which you can hear the noise, it happens both directions and the video is taken whilst the car is stationary. Half way through the video i turn the car off (the buzzing is just to tell me the lights are on) and restart it so you can hear that it doesn't make the noise whilst starting. So can you guys listen/watch the video and possibly suggest what it might be. If it is the tension on the belt I can try and change it but it seems ok to me. Corrado PAS video EdIt: I also get feedback from the steering wheel, when I hear the whine the steering wheel starts to shake/wobble

I'm not saying you are wrong I just remember thinking it didn't fit when I tried to do mine so I replaced the whole thing. It was the first thing I did though so maybe I was being stupid...just don't forget to replace all the parts, drivers and passengers vents, heater controls and the heater box at the back (will work with the early box but cable lengths are different for the sliders and dials and you might have trouble getting the vents to move)

Well a 92 usually has early interior parts as mine did but i was pretty sure that they were slightly different shapes in the middle from early to late, the early has a different mounting bracket to hold it on the body (behind the storage space at the bottom in the middle) which would suggest that the sizes/shapes are different. From what i remember (and someone can correct me) the late is rounder and the button holes are different sizes. I think the passengers side with the vent and glovebox are the same as are the dials and the vent on the drivers side, its just the bit in the middle that is different

haha we found that out when you tried to bolt mine back on :lol: Tis true though, I needed one with PAS the one I got wasn't for PAS but I wasn't complaining as I didn't pay for it, I just drilled the holes in the right place, covered it in hammerite and jobs a good'un

Maybe we should start charging :lol: It was definitely interesting to say the least but as David said, using thickish garden twine gave us a few mm out and mine is about 0.5mm out however I haven't had a chance to get it properly checked. There is a place near me who say they will do alignment checks for free so I will try and take it down there to see what readings they've got. There is still a slight pull to the left but it also depends what the road conditions are like but we were as close as we could get it the camber to 0.5 deg or thereabouts according to our calculations