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h100vw

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Everything posted by h100vw

  1. h100vw

    VR6 Misfire

    Dutch, you have 4 cylinders reading 11.9-12.6 the other 2 are roughly 7 and 9 the units are probably BAR as you say. A BAR is approx 14 PSI. Std motors(not VRs but the cylinders are about the same capacity as an 1800) I have checked in the past usually have about 180 PSI which is getting on for 13 BAR. a 10% spread would be acceptable. 2 and 6 on yours are well down. You need to find out why. With the engine warm you should squirt some oil into each cylinder. This will help seal the rings briefly. Then do the check again. If the pressure comes up then the bore/rings are at fault. If the readings are the same then it is the valves not sealing well. The other test you can do which is very similar is a cylinder leakdown. You pressurise each cylinder and see how long they hold the pressure. With this method listening for air escaping from the oil filler cap or dip stick means the rings are gone. Air coming from the inlet or exhaust manifolds is the valves. Any decent garage should have the ability to do that for you. Unfortunately the VR engine has previous form for wearing the rear cylinders. Which is costly to sort out. gavin
  2. h100vw

    Leccy windows

    RESULT :mrgreen:
  3. Do a search mate. Only for VRs though. Gavin
  4. Duff stalk. My old passat used to do it, going over bumps would set it off. Gavin
  5. No worries Dr...Thats the point of the forum. :mrgreen:
  6. The MFA reads OIL TEMP not water Dr. Oil temp is usually pretty constant regardless of ambient temperature. The water temp will be a fair bit lower, usually in the early 90s, standing in traffic it is normal for it to rise, the fans should keep it cycling between 105ish and 90 Dependant on the tolerance on the fan switch. I hope that sets your mind at rest a bit. Gavin
  7. h100vw

    VR6 Misfire

    10PSI is a quite acceptable difference between cylinders IMO. I wouldn't pull the head off for that reason alone. Gavin
  8. A broken radiator would be leaking coolant. If it's water tight it's ok. Assuming it's been fed a diet of correctly mixed antifreeze and water there is no reason to suspect anything wrong with it. This 104 you have seen is that on the MFA?
  9. If it ain't broke don't fix it.......Assuming you don't poke a hole in it while taking it out. Gavin
  10. Commission :roll: :lol:
  11. h100vw

    Leccy windows

    HAve you been messing in the fuse box or anything?
  12. h100vw

    Leccy windows

    if there was a problem with this would that mean that the central locking wouldnt work too? Correct!
  13. I have the bentley out for another snag. It says the wires are different colours. The plug is usually fixed to the steering column somewhere. Gavin
  14. h100vw

    Leccy windows

    Try the windows with the drivers door open. What happens. If nothing, Check that you have power in the back of the circuit breaker. It should be live all the time on one of the contacts. With a voltmeter set on resistance, check the breaker has continuity, ie no resistance. The only other thing I can see imediately commmon to everything is the big fat earth off the window controller. This is fitted to an earth rose by the fuse box. The same earth is also for the central locking. let me know........
  15. h100vw

    Leccy windows

    Bentley says, 20A circuit breaker in position 21 above fusebox. 19 20(21)22 23 24 13 14 15 16 17 18 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 These should be resettable if they are not just thermal. This feeds power to the window controller. Sidepanel behind driver. The switches should have a live on them on the green/yellow or green/white on the drivers side and plain green on the passenger side. Assuming its positive switched??? Thats your lot really. It is worth checking that wheteher they go up and down with the drivers door open. This allows you to shut them with the ign key out for a short while. Gavin
  16. Machine mart or the loot if you don't ask questions? :lol: Don't buy a smaller one it'll be useless. I have a 25 litre one, it barely runs my airhacksaw. The impact gun empties it and stalls. :roll: It's ok for blowing up tyres and spraying shutz though. I have some air tools to get rid of if you need any. Australia looming Gavin
  17. I'd say they are talking cobblers. The only thing under the bonnet that costs anywhere near that money is the charger. What is up with your car? Give us the symptoms and we'll give you some ideas. Gavin
  18. Wayne rocks. I turn up and he is de-tuning a 911 race car cos he made it too powerful for the series it was in! A very down to earth no BS kind of guy. Whatever, you do don't wind yourself up into a must have 2XXhp or I'll kill myself situation. You may be disappointed. I didn't get what I wanted see. Reds and a solid 1 BAR boost yet I only got 180 hp..... I knew my car was running better than it was and was also much quicker. RRs are just a tool to get the best on the day. The best thing about Wayne is he'll come to you if you have somewhere suitable for him to work. He does a lot at Dubsport too which would be pretty convenient for you. Gavin
  19. The syncro drivetrain costs big time...fuel, parts, grey hair, special to Rallye rear shocks, etc etc. How do I know, read below. 340 miles on 15 gallons, I daren't work that out. Gavin
  20. Find a gearbox specialist, it doesn't have to be a tuner. I would think most tuners would shy away from doing this sort of stuff. Specialist tools etc. Lots of scope for things going Pete Tong for the inexperienced. Although a tuner may have a place they use themselves which they'll tell you about. Gavin
  21. Sounds like the fan is gone then. Do you have a volt meter just to confirm that power is going to both the terminals at the motor and proving that it's not a wiring issue. I have a couple of serviceable fans in the garage, having had one die on me I keep them on the shelf. Gavin
  22. Did you try all combinations of teh 3 wires?
  23. Just re-read the first post. Cold bottom hose is not good. At tickover with no airflow I would expect the top and bottom hoses to be pretty much the same temp. It could be a jammed thermostat. GAvin
  24. Straight from the +ve at the battery with a fuse in-line as soon as you can. Or off the back of the fuse box. Where the big fat red goes in, one terminal next to it is also live. Gavin
  25. Yeah, if I remember right there is a red straight off the battery in the plug. Jump that to either of the others. One wire is low speed the other high. OBVIOUSLY don't be surprised when it sparks a bit. :mrgreen: It won't take your hand off. Gavin
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