Jump to content

h100vw

Members
  • Content Count

    2,830
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by h100vw

  1. Fan motor could be forked. Jump the rad switch with a paper clip or a piece of wire. I wouldn't poke a finger in the fan on my Syncro without an ambulance present. :mrgreen: Like Riley I fill up the cooling system with the engine running and cap off. Never had problems yet with airlocks. Gavin
  2. h100vw

    MOT Advice

    He is right, there is no requirement to have front fogs in the UK. They shouldn'y even be checked Gavin
  3. If that's a hydraulic one that has died. Replace it with a std one. They are about £30 from GSF. I use a modified std mount on my syncro with out any problems. Gavin
  4. CV joint, inner or outer and maybe the bottom ball joint. Check your wheel bolts too if you haven't already. Gavin
  5. You won't need 5M of pipe. Unless you are putting it on the back seat...:lol: I only needed 1.5 on my G60. I had a 16 row 230mm one on the Golf. Oil temps usually in the late 70s on the motorway at 80. Only saw anything higher following a burst of acceleration or on a track. At the track it'd still creep up to 120 but dropped off in a couple of hundred yards when you came off the gas. You need to see 100 degrees really to unsure getting rid of moisture in the engine. I thought that mine was too big TBH, a 10 row would have plenty big enough. Gavin
  6. h100vw

    Brakes

    The difference in thickness between a new disc and yours would tell you how worn they are. A 280 is 22mm thick to start with. The depth of the lip at the outer edge should be no more than 1/2 mm on each face, if you are to believe most service limits. Personally I would just buy some replacement discs from GSF. I have had BDs in the past and they corrode just like ordinary ones once the coating wears off. After a couple of months you'd not tell them from std discs. Pads choice again is a wide one. I prefer Pagid FR and std compounds but have used EBC too. It depends where you will be driving the car. Just on the road, get the std Pagid. Track days will require something different which compromise road performance as the pads don't get enough heat in them. They don't last long at the track usually either. Gavin
  7. h100vw

    Front Engine mount

    Under the gearbox is ok, lump of wood to prevent damage. Gavin
  8. You're welcome Tom and thanks for the cappucino :) Gavin
  9. Bally and JMC, thanks for the kind comments. Gavin
  10. I thought the mass meters were a diesel thing. Mr Wilbury probably knows better though.
  11. h100vw

    Front Engine mount

    yeah............with a trolley jack and the right sockets, 13-15 and 17mm Gavin
  12. GSF do the belt for 11.25 and the tensioner is 17.95. Its worth sticking a full set of belts on it. PS and alternator. I can do it in 2 hours. Shouldn't take any longer by professionals. Gavin
  13. Are you doing it yourself? They are pretty cheap, you should do a tensioner at the same time. Gavin
  14. Get a new one unless you have proof it's been done. A ten quid item that will cost you hundreds if it breaks. Gavin
  15. Is that for the one you picked up from me 2 years ago?
  16. h100vw

    G60

    Yeah turn the MFA to oil temp. My syncro warms up proper fast so I usually start winding it up from 50 degrees. Oil pressure is higher when the oil is cold and thick. I would think that big revs would increase the risk of blowing a charger seal. Gavin
  17. I doubt Glasses would go back that far for an official price. Have you looked on Parkers.co.uk? Are you selling? I would reckon a trader wouldn't give much more than 1500 quid. To them it's just an old dub. Gavin
  18. Not Racershardwares fault. But not very long at all. I am a coilover hater personally. AVO may have improved their quality since the mid 90s but I'd never buy them again on principle. I certainly wouldn't spend £500 on them. My advice is buy the H&Rs and Konis and stick the coilovers on ebay. I know someone will be along to shoot me down but IMO coilovers are just not right for road use. A years worth of road muck really doesn't do them any good at all. Gavin
  19. h100vw

    Engine mount

    Nothing if you want to fit it as it is. What I did to the one on my syncro is pull it apart. You have a rubber block filled with holes. I filled most of the holes up with a load of old bolts. I then welded the top back on. Not got any pictures but come over and I can show you what's what. Or like I say just fit it as it is. Gavin EDIT GSF do them for less than VW. The one like mine is 24.50 plus VAT. The Hydro one is more.
  20. h100vw

    Engine mount

    Louie, they cost naff all. I have a soild one from the Passat that I broke. You can stiffen them up if you have the facility to weld it back together. I lent my MIG out. If you want it for a fiver let me know. Gavin
  21. Bodge Tape is like the force- it has a light side and a darkside and holds the universe together. :notworthy:
  22. 1. There is a bulb out somewhere on that side for sure. 2. Probably a broken filament shorting out to the sidelights when you brake. Replace both tail/stop light bulbs if you don't know what you are looking for. Gavin
  23. h100vw

    Engine mount

    VR front mounts are different to 4cylinder ones. The others are the same AFAIK. Gavin
×
×
  • Create New...