h100vw

They are on a very fine thread and do take some effort to move even with the right tool. Most motoring shops will have one in stock. Make sure you get the right adapter for a VW. Mine was about £20 but all the saved hospital trips means it is well paid for itself. :mrgreen:

I reckon your mystrey wire is an old bonnet switch wire. Some dead keen fitter may have fitted 2 switches at some point.

amazon

I think it will be time to see a real expert.... I wouldn't go that far :roll:

upgraded, oh baby.............. :lol: Take note of what Kent says in my avatar

Not a recommended job for most folk. http://www.KompressorKanada.ca are one company that are highly thought of on your side of the pond. If you want someone in the US have a look on http://www.vwvortex.com in the technical forums under G60. Gavin

I'd better get back to school having spelt Kanistore rong. :iamwithstupid: :iamwithstupid:

You are right nowt comes up. As I understand it, you just remove the can and all the pipe work. Any hoses left will probably need to be blocked off. Gavin

Ask GazzaG60 Steve, he knows a load about them. He has spent eons tuning his mates Scooby using a wideband. I don't think the tailpipe is the best place to shove it....... Gavin

do a search mate. A well covered subject. Welcome to the forum as well. Gavin

'gas is so damn high now.' You are going to run a G60 to save money, LMAO. In the UK petrol is nearly 8 dollars a gallon. Although I think our gallon is a bit bigger. What could you possibly drive that uses more fuel than a G60?? Gavin :lol: edit. no sig on the first post. Now I see what the problem is. :roll: :lol:

I hope the SNS guys won't mind me cutting and pasteing for the benefit of others...... Car not running right? Here's some common debugging tips! 1. Engine running warmed up, unplug the blue coolant temp switch, does anything change? No = bad coolant temp. Alt: 1000 ohms resistance after normal operating temps 2. Air Temp (on intercooler tube) 500 ohms on outer two pins, you have to drill out the cap to get the adjustment. 3. O2 sensor, of course, check the wires/harness for any damage. If you haven't replaced this lately, might be time to get the universal and just crimp the wires on. $60 or less. 4. The TB -> ecu hose must be plugged in the right place. its closed to the passenger side. Unplug the ecu hose from the ECU , if the car still runs like crap, then its the ecu hose. Don't even attempt to drive the car with the ecu hose off. 5. Check your battery voltage, If the battery voltage goes low, the ECU dumps 25% more fuel than normal. 6. The ground wires, to the head, and everywhere else. Bad grounds are a common issue with this car, especially the one to the head. 7. Distributor cap/rotor, remove, inspect and clean dirt. Sandpaper any "growth/corrosion" on the metal contact points. 8. Wires,plugs, you should remove the plugs and inspect for damage, or fouling from being rich. 9. If o2 sensor goes bad, it will kill the cat real quick. Remove the cat by lowering exhaust, look inside, if its crumbly, turned sideways, or black, its probably dead. 10. Check vacuum through boost gauge (10-15psi of vacuum) or MFA (84-104) at idle. Anything else, you might have a big vacuum leak. 11. ISV - if you haven't rerouted it, you may have a leaking ISV. 12. Idle screw on throttle body. Make sure its not gone, or about to fall out. Usually results in "hunting" or high rpm idle. 13. Have you changed the fuel filter lately? Its by the passenger rear wheel. Easy to change, watch out for gas spraying you in the face! 14. Timing. If you don't own a timing light, you can mark the distributor cap and base with some paint/white-out. Unbolt the ~13mm bolt that holds the distributor down. Turning the distributor cap right, will retard timing, Turning left will advance. Advance = more power, quicker off the line, more likely to ping/knock with poor gas. Retard is when you feel pinging or detonation. I'd suggest, on the hottest day possible, advancing a little, driving, and advancing more until you feel knock/detonation or pinging when you first get on the gas. Then back off some. Stock timing is 6-8 degrees, with good 93+octane gas , you should be able to go higher. With poor 91 octane, you are going to have to back off timing a bit with most chips. Gavin

I work there Dan. Dinnertime is best for me, my plane will have gone and I have no pressure in the afternoon. If you tape the full throttle switch up, the ECU ignores the probe and is a quick way to prove the probe is good or not. http://www.snstuning.com is good for G60 troubleshooting. Gavin

Lambda probe or associated wiring. Try Awesome GTI store http://www.awesomegti.com Or if you can wait til tuesday, if you can nip over to Manchester airport I'll take a quick look for you. Gavin

Don't worry about the back if you have new calipers. The fronts do all the braking. I would suggest that the pads are more important to get get right IMO. I don't rate drilled and/or grooved discs over plain ones. I have had all the variants in my time. Even battering around on trackdays has never proved one to be better than the others. I would go with quality, VAG, Brembo or whatever plain discs and Pagid pads. Fast Road if you fancy them. I have no complaints about the std replacement pads though. I did like the bite of EBC green stuff and they do stop well but in my experience create loads of dust and they are not very long lasting in a track environment. Road use only may be better. I too would be interested to see if anyone has drilled 288s to 4 stud. The brakes on my mate mk3 anniversary are pretty good and JoeMs Vr6 was excellent at Oulton, right up until........... Just flip a coin Gavin

Redline is the stuff to use IMO. Improved the quality of the change on my syncro no end. It was nearly 60 for 2 bottles of gear oil and a bottle of water wetter. Gavin

I'd say that's good value. Gavin

It's only the same job except for the drive belt for the charger. In the right facilities you could do it in 2-3 hours easy. Gavin

Is there an immobiliser fitted thats not disarming?? Also the fuel pump only runs for a few seconds when turning on the ign. After that it runs ONLY when the engine is running. Except if the fuel is recirculating to prevent vapour lock.. There is a red/yellow wire that runs down the drivers side sill that feeds the fuel pump. It comes out the back of the fusebox then up and down the back of the wheel arch. Gavin

The one my mate got is a pukka VAG-COM lead. I guess yours is a third party one? If it is I'd try this page at the bottom...... http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/download/archives.html Release 311.2 If that doesn't work, then I'd try each one till you find the one. Best of luck Gavin

WONGA, you need to change your status from Holiday. No one, me included, can PM you back. You can email at gavinwalsh@gmail. com if you like. Gavin

Chris, does it need to be Cat 1? If not, I can sort you out probably. Are you able to fit it yourself? Gavin

WONGA, you need to go into your profile, because your status is on holiday I cannot reply to your PM. You can always email me at mailto:[email protected] Cheers Gavin PS can one of the MODs do that for him??

I borrowed a lead from a mate and used the one to match the lead. HEX-COM can or something. Gavin

It is unlikely that cahnaging the stem seals will fix it for long. If the guides are worn it'll not take the valves long to do the new seals. Best to have new exhaust guides fitted as a minimum if you take the head off. Probably about a tenner a guide to supply and fit. Gavin