h100vw

A bad vac feed to the FPR wouldn't help. The Fuel Pressure should rise with boost, which is why there is a vac on it. Ign timing could be out too. It would probably run ok at small throttle openings but be unable to handle Larger ones. The timing would shoot up and the knock sensor could be influencing the ECU. Gavin

Everyone please ingore the comment about squirrels :mrgreen: I have never been there :oops: It must have been an imposter Chris, Try sticking that duff key on the bolt and whack it hard with a big hammer. The shock may do some good. A lot of steady pressure and a whack may also be the way to go when you get the new key. Let me know if I can help out in the future though. Gavin

I am thinking about sticky throttle position switches. If you shut the throttle on to overrun and then open up again. If the closed throttle switch stays in the ECU will be confused, thinking you should be at tickover or cutting fuel off if you have a gear engaged and not be able to inject any fuel. The switch may free itself going over a bump or something and suddenly off you go. Doesn't sound right, when I read that but I know what I mean. The ECU is torn between 2 states. Overrun cutoff if engine is over 1500 revs OR tickover With a G60 you should check the Vac pipe to the ECU if you haven't already. It should be a metre long exactly. gavin

It's not about the grease but how tight they were done up. I know you impact gun didn't work but I have an 18V snapon one that only just undid a wheel last week that was put on and torqued correctly. Did the gun do the adapter or did you break it manually? I have a some looking wheel nut removers at home. They have internal LH threads and should undo that last bolt if needed. Whereabouts are you in the northwest? Maybe I can help you? You don't want to bust another adapter. gavin Gavin

Which engine are you running DM? I have another theory that may apply to you. Gavin

JuloesG60 you need to go into your profile and change the holiday setting I cannot PM you back. Can one of the MODS do that for him?? Gavin

You are talking biggish money for that conversion. Plenty of threads on the subject and you could check bahn brenner in the states for more details. The compression is too high, there are plenty of brackets to get hold of and of course the blower itself. Easier to start with a G60 and go 16V Gavin

You want to specify the DX engine code. The 'D' is VWs year indicator. It runs from july to july or something similar. They only did the 1800 MK1 for 2 years (in tin top anyway). The MK1 campaigns were all 1984 model year and had 'E' in their chassis numbers. Gavin

Those numbers are correct. Bolt fits DX, JJ and EW engines. M14X1 5X40 Are they looking at a 1983 model year 'D'. Gavin

I don't think it's one of mine but as I don't keep any records I may be wrong :roll: Either way I am willing to help out. Gavin

150, unless an anniversary which is 180 I think. The 20vt motor is available in 150-180-210 and 225 from the factories of VW, Audi and Seat. 210/225 have the KO4 turbo the 150 is a KO3 and the 180 is a KO3sport Gavin

Did anyone clock the 17s on the pram in the background of craigowls b/w picture. Smoking. :mrgreen:

Since you asked! One of me in the car when it was standard....oooh the memories of the agricultural ride height, naff stereo, paper air filter etc etc... And money in the bank????? :lol:

This pipe to the ECU must be a metre long. If its over or under by more than 5cm it'll confuse the ECU and give less than ideal running. The pipe on the FPR needs to be in good fettle too or the mixture will lean out as manifold depression increases. Gavin

Check the pipe to the ECU for splits. Does it run ok on part throttle and die if you try to hoof it? Is it ok when cold but plays up after it gets warm? BTS or lambda probe. Tell us a bit more about how it runs. Gavin

Beauty idea Steve. Also might be worth trying to do it up first. I got told that a while ago by a VW tech somewhere. Always worked for me. At least it hasn't ripped the captive out.. Gavin

It should poke through a hole in the plastic work somewhere, about half inch in diameter. Gavin

Whizz over to warrington meeting and I'll have a look for you. I'll be there around 2-2.15. I can bring a voltmeter. 07766 702997 Gavin

The bolt had gone on my syncro. The car left me at the side of the M6 after appearing to run ok for 25miles after picking it up. I changed the bolt as a matter of course but the car failed to start. I had checked the timing marks but it still wouldn't have it. I then checked to make sure number one piston was at the top. It wasn't........ The bottom pulley had no woodruff key in it. The crank slot was a little bit worn but not where it mattered. A nice secondhand pulley from Awesome and it started first turn of the key. Now using a DX bolt obviously. FIT AND FORGET. Gavin

I doubt it would be a cracked block. Any good garage should be able to pressure check the engine to isolate the fault. You can 'sniff' the water for combustion gasses. Like dr_mat says there are a couple of ways to get oil in the water. The fact that you are having pipes blow could be over pressure due to the headgasket. It could be old age, the rubber going brittle? Leaks could be down to corrosion, the T stat housing for example. If the car has been run without antifreeze or a weak mix, for any length of time the aluminium may have corroded to a point where the pressure can escape. I had this happen on a 16V. The fan failed, I replaced it and while waiting for the new one to cut in, the top hose connection on the head blew off....... So new connection and fan switch. Certainly for 6K you could have a new engine from VW. A rebuilt replacement from a 3rd party would be very nice with that budget!!! 3.1 turbo or SC??? Rattling top end is common on un-loved VRs with 100k. Around a 1000 to sort in the UK. Gavin

What do you want to fit it on? On a G60 your money would be better spent on a chip and pulley assuming the charger is fit enough. Don't think of it as a cure all. Replacing plugs, cap and rotor and getting your car set up right would be another way of spending the money. Gavin

Now I would buy a 45 gallon drum if it was £4 a gallon. :mrgreen:

Synta is just the stuff they sell at VW, it's not a miracle oil. It's probably made by someone else and stickered up for VW. Stevemac might have an idea who does it. Find out which dealers have the filters and get them to mail you some. Gavin

I just checked my cheapo no name oil and it meets API SJ/CF and VW 501.01/505.00. So I am still happy to use it. When I run ot though I have set up a deal with the local chippy, he says he can get all the scraps out no problem :mrgreen: Gavin

Just go between battery earth and rocker cover, I would expect less than 5 ohms. If you haven't got a meter make sure all mating surfaces are clean and 'bright'. That should do. Check your injector rail, if the earth trigger is shorted to earth it'll fire the injectors when ever the ign is on. Gavin