h100vw

Cheack all your earths before hooking up another ECU or you risk frying another one. Gavin

You can't get a tensioner? |Or you cannot remove the old one? Buy from GSF/Euro. Remove whilst replacing belt. The tensioner won't clear the bottom belt cover other wise. Gavin

I think the powers that be say once a month or so is adequate. I bet good money though the GazzaG60 has never done his since I rebuilt his charger last year. :mrgreen: Was nothing mention when you bought a kit, if you did? g-man is the one to contact. Gavin

Did they give you the part number? Was it 536 253 087A, if that's correct then the pipe only fits the corrado and no other VW. There are often mk3 downpipes for cheap money on ebay but they may not fit. It's a bad job to replace, the rear subframe needs to be dropped to get access. The other consideration is buying a miltek big bore down pipe for a bit more power at about the same money. I'd also get a second opinion in case it's just he manifold to down pipe gasket blowing. An awkward job but only about an hour to do. Gavin

They are platinum for long life. Like Riley says you can get them on ebay for £20 so I would probably change them every 15-20K miles at that money. At VW money though I think you would do them every 36 or 48K. The platinum doesn't erode like a conventional plug, which is why you only have one earth electrode. You will also notice that the centre electrode is pointed to promote a good spark. Gavin

No worries, just watch the wires when you put it all back.

Remove the dash undertray. then there are 2 white clips, pull them outboard away from the fusebox. Then pull them down and they should come off. They look like pegs when you see them off the car. You'll have to hunt down the red.brown yourself. Gavin

That's a Passat GT G60 syncro, not a Corrado. Had you noticed my sig? Gavin http://www.imagestation.com/album/index ... 2133185855

I bought mt G60 syncro for a grand, with leather and air. The charger was donald ducked though. Pitstop and gwerks sorted that for me though. Diseasel is the way to go for your run around. Gavin

Its was an F reg 1.8 GT. I got it tested and sold it for £300 to a mate of a mate. I just sold my K plate 2 litre GL for 550 after running it for 2 years. I paid 460 on ebay. Spent a couple of hundred on it, alarm, exhaust servicing but free motoring practically. Gavin

The Quick Golf was a mk1 16V, 2.1 litre 210 at the crank on carbs and original ign. A nasty thing!! I am in warrington. If you car drives and you can make it to the Airport on sunday I'll come out and take a look at it. Gavin

I bought a Passat estate off ebay for £75. I called it 'Clifford the big red Dub'. Thats the only car I have named. The others are JUST lumps of metal that cost me the earth. Oh and petrol is up again. :roll: So if I up the compression ratio can I use diesel???? Gavin

Was that quick Golf black?

Bootsy, can you do a picture of whats wrong? It sounds like you dont have any plugs or something. How did it all get melted together? Gavin

I am pretty sure the car side wires go to the ECU. There will be a power to the Lambda probe, an earth and a signal back to the ECU(purple/lilac colour). Can you not find the probe on the Bentley? Those diagrams are easy really. The top line is the power, the bottom the earth and all the current flows down, any line running off the page left or right joins up the the page before or after. Where a line terminates in a box the number refers to another track. The track numbers are along the bottom of the page. Each electrical item has a number and letter. J123 would be a relay, E1 I think is the ign switch. There is a list of all the components at the beginning of each chapter. Gavin

That's chuffing rediculous. The lad wants a knock on the head to jack a verbal quote from 350 to 650 on paper. No-one else would take that on the chin. Who was that Andy, not one of my recommendations was it? Gavin

Same rules apply for the 8V.... Cheap American muck, or synta. gavin

I find that if you keep going to ludicrous velocity, then everything smooths out noticeably. Just watch out for old ladies crossing the road, they never hear you. :roll:

See Matt, a can of worms :mrgreen: The worst thing you can do is never change the oil. Kev and Henny have more money than sense and are not from Yorkshire, where peole demand value for money :roll: The oil I buy meets all the standards API SJ and in my mind is easily good enough for the job. I do draw the line at buying oil from Netto. Next, Gavin :)

This'll turn into a can worms...... I use Chevron 10/40 mineral oil which I get from costco, 17 quid for 4 gallons. I change it every 5000 KMs (never got an mph speedo). I have no problems with it. It uses a bit although having just replaced an oil seal on the charger I expect that to almost stop. You can spend more if you like but steer clear of fully synthetic. It's just too thin and you will likely be constantly topping up. VW synta silver tends to be popular choice from the usual suspects, GSF and Euro. Gavin

Sounds like a bad earth some where on the spotlights, try reconnecting one at a time to see which side it is. Sounds like fitting the loom would fix you up but it would be hiding the other problem.. gavin

Looks like a reshell using a newer shell to me. The 'M' and the 'N' denote the year of manufacture. I would say it legit or the 'spare' number would have been removed. Gavin

I have a std KR inlet cam which would be cheap if you want to go down that road. £15 plus delivery. Gavin

Glad to help. Any other V=IR questions let me know. :mrgreen: In truth, the current would be less, as the voltage is usually nearer 14volts than 12. Gavin

Hi fellas, I have been shipping looms with a spare 30A fuse for the main beam for about a year now. For information, a 20A blade fuse is happy running 20 Amps continuously. It will blow at 40Amps, double the rating. Jumping to 80/100W bulbs from std 55/60Ws takes the current in the main beam feed over the edge. Std main beam in the loom draws 2 X 60W + 2 X 55W total 230Ws dividing by 12V gets you to 19.16A. Going to 80/100W headlights with std spots draws, 2 X 100 + 2 X 55W = 310W dividing by 12V gets 26A. As the relay intially makes, the sudden increase in current in the wire may exceed the 20A blow of 40A. Fitting the 30A prevents this yet still provides the protection that the loom and relays need. I don't recommend changing the spotlight bulbs for 100 watters, with 80/100W headlights you will take it over the limits of both the relay (40A) and the cable that I use. I hope that is clear enough. If not ask again. Cheers gavin