h100vw

Very true and a certain Ian Birch is often seen around there.... Gavin

Yeah, I had a few problems with mine but got sorted eventually. Not much choice when you want one for summat unusual like my Passat. http://www.imagestation.com/album/index ... 2133185855 Not show standard underneath but I am not a 'rocket polisher'. Cheers Gavin

No worries.

Do you have the instructions cos I found some for you. Can fax if you want them no scanner. Gavin

You are going to need the install instructions for that Kev. It should be programmable. The rep left me some leaflet on the products and it is possible to select lock/unlock with ignition. I might have a 161 in the garage which has the same features without the immobiliser. I'll be back.........

I hope this won't be treated as a crossposting offence :roll: Anyway, the Autowatch man just left and I have access to all areas. :wink: Anything they do I can get. My only issue will be be supplying to folk who haven't the ability to fit the stuff themselves. This is to protect both me and the purchaser from problems down the line. Kev and Henny, as you have previously mentioned interest feel free to get in touch. http://www.autowatch.co.uk for further details on the products. The rep also brought a new remote immobiliser relay. This looks to be a way cool idea. You can have it cut anything and fit it in addition to other security. The remote allows you to have a 4 digit pin number, so even if the scrotes have your keys away they will have a job on their hands. You could fit one in a few minutes near the fusebox with a dedicated lead or stash it away, maybe in the boot, to have an additonal fuel pump cut. This isn't on the website yet. But I found this reference http://www.dsauto.co.uk/Autowatch_products.htm right to the bottom of the page.. Available at much less than the advertised price on there!! Cheers Gavin

The Autowatch guy just left, I now have an account and can supply their products. I don't want to be a kill joy but anyone interested will need to prove they have the ability to fit the gear before I can let anything go. This is to protect both myself and the purchaser from a boat load of trouble. :) Feel free to check out http://www.autowatch.co.uk and get in touch with me and I'll see what i can do. Gavin

Use a torque wrench too, as a mate of mine stretched and snapped a cap bolt on a saturday afternoon once and we had to wait until tuesday to get a new one from VW. Gavin

The wiring diagrams are in the Bentley Manual. The car itself doesn't have any relays for the lights which why they are so bad to start with. There are 4 fuses in the fuse bxo related to the headlight. I suggest you check them all. Gavin

That's probably correct mate. I'll be able to confirm it after Christmas, I had my X-ray today and the medical is next thursday. If they don't spot the lobotomy we'll be in. Same deal in Germany, one of the number plate stickers is the registration which includes thrid party only. Your choice to pay for theft/damage cover. Chances of hitting an uninsured driver in Germany are pretty chuffing slim as the coppers are quite literally Na*is. :lol: Gavin

If you have had the ign timing done a couple of times to correct pinking, I wonder if maybe you have got a problem with the bottom pulley. Do a search about crank bolts and read all there is. A good friend of mine had a 16V and we found out just in time that the bolt was loose and the pulley had moved. It pulled like a train with small throttle openings but a big right foot would have it pinking like mad. I think that you should get that bolt removed, check the bottom pulley and fit the bolt from a DX motor as insurance. If the pulley has been damaged you can get them overnight from VW if you order early enough in the day. In fact you could get one ordered over the phone and pull your car apart when you know it's on the shelf at the dealers. If you don't need it, start using a different dealer. :mrgreen: Gavin

I am not sure that scum covers it. Its a licence to print money. You can probably insure a 30 grand 911 for less. I paid 400 TPFT for a 3grand Golf. In the olden days, I paid £550 to insure a warmed up MK1 worth about £4000, my mate paid less to insure a £15K Escort Cosworth! How do they work that out? Gavin

What MR Supercharged says is good. You can tell if it's racing or labouring. I just set it so it sounds comfortable. Task, can I clear up what you are asking about engine timing? You have mechanical timing, between crank, head and distributer position. There is also ignition timing, when the spark occurs in relation to engine position, usually before top dead centre(BTDC). Which one are you talking about mate? Gavin

That autowatch immobiliser is perfect for the job. Have a read up on it and see what you think. I reckon I can beat the price in that link comfortably. http://www.autowatch.co.uk/ Gavin

As long as it's not pinking, it's ok to be a few degrees out. http://www.snstuning.com for timing setting tips. Bear in mind that with warmer temps coming? it'll be more likely to pink anyway. Gavin

I would be surprised if you could measure the ignition timing to within a degree. Does it start pimking or something? How come you are monitoring it so closely? Gavin

Just stick a switch in line with the fuel pump power feed. Why do you want to fit a cutoff, to stop theft? I have a couple of cat 2 immoblisers that I have removed and are labelled up. Or I have one of those anti-hijack autowatch immobilisers I could sell you. Hopefully, from tomorrow morning I'll be able to get an unlimited supply of them. http://abacuscaralarms.co.uk/store/view ... tch%2068Hi Gavin

On the back of the fusebox you'll find a big fat red wire, next to it should also be live all the time. I'd go from there with a fuse. If you follow the wires from the ign switch there will be a black wire, this is ign live. All earths in dubs are brown so pick the fattest one you can and follow it back to where it joins the chassis and earth at the same place. Having had VWs for years including MK1s, I am like Henny and have got used to turning my own stereo off. :wink: Gavin

Whose loom is it, one of mine??? Or some 'other' supplier? Does it latch on and leave the blue warning light on the dash? Or are you having to hold the stalk to get any lights? Gavin

Bob, we have got you going in the wrong direction. A woodruff key is how Henny describes it, a semicircular chunk of steel which 'keys' an outer pulley/drive/whatever to the inner shaft. In the case of the bottom cam belt pulley. As it fits to the end of the crank there is a notch machined into the crank and a corresponding raised piece on the pulley. This prevents the pulley from being fitted in the wrong orientation and also if the bolt were to become loose would drive the belt for a while until the loading and unloading of the pulley destroyed it. I and most others on the forum would call it a woodruff key, as there isn't a better name for it. It sounds to me like you have got the right pulley, post a picture with the part number and we can check it out for you. The round pip you described, is to make sure that you fit the crank pulley in the correct orientation, also the four bolt holes are not drilled in a perfect square so it wouldn't bolt to the cam belt pulley if you got it wrong. Cheers Gavin

I think it is a pick up for the ECU ETKA calls it an IMPULSE SENDER and I am surprised it runs without it around a connected plug lead. Now if you get hold of the lead and the end that goes to the cap, try undoing it. I am pretty sure they just unscrew. That's how it looks on ETKA too. Gavin

You need to disconnect the BTS adjust the timing to 6+or-1 degrees at 2-2500 revs. This stops the ECU advancing the timing and proves the BTS and wiring are good. Setting it at tickover isn't the whole story. Reconnect the BTS and rev the engine 3 times allowing the throttle to close each time. Then let the engine idle and adjust if required. To check the map, the timing should advance to between 20-30 degrees plus base setting at 2500 revs. Job done Gavin Oh yeah, with ref to the mechanical timing being correct. My Passat showed itself to be spot on, except when I stuck a screwdriver down number 1 plug hole it wasn't. I was using the crank pulley as the reference not the flywheel. The woodruff key was gone and the pulley had spun. Not enough to bend anything but the engine wouldn't run. New pulley and it started first flick of the key.

If they are 7.5 wide you are looking for 205s really. I had some 195s fitted on some 7.5s for a mate and the tyre fitters had loads of trouble getting the, to seal enough to blow them up. They tried all the tricks in the book and fitted and removed about a dozen tyres to find the 4 that would blow up. They did look good without being stretched to death. 205s would go straight on with no problems though. Gavin

I don't think that you check it by twisting thru 90 degrees. VW will have done the maths and you just fit the right length belt. Sometimes the tensioner springs vibrates and makes a horrible row. Try holding it still, especially noticeable if the tickover is a bit low. The jockey wheels are a bit of a weak spot IMO. I have replaced them on both my Golf and Passat. GSF sell them pretty cheap. Gavin

There is no adjustment for belt tension. You should check the correct length belt is fitted. It's not like a cam belt. Has your motor had a chip n pulley from Jabbasport? they fit a cap to the tensioner to take up the slack created by fitting a smaller pulley. I had one on my Golf and I am convinced it wore out the charger bearings. Gavin