h100vw

130 delivered from g-man. I mounted mine in front of the I/C on my Golf. Using some strips of ally that I bought from B&Q, 20mm wide and about 4 mm thick. I'd recommend doing the same on a 16V, behind the grille infront of the rad. The other thing with a cooler, it increases the capacity of the oil system which also helps temps. There will be some oil caught in the cooler during oil changes unless you empty it out each time. Gavin

It has never happened yet Dan to my knowledge. The oil would not get cooled as you say but you would see the water temp go up accordingly. Don't worry about that happening. Anyone got a mocal or other rad type oil cooler ? How effective are they compared to the water cooled sandwich plate? What is the typical temp differences between an avg 13 row cooler and the standard water-cooled oil? Anyone got a pic of one installed? Is there any issue with the oil temp rising in traffic or when idle as the cooler is not getting airflow and there is no fan on it? The effect is quite drastic in my experience. On my G60 GTI the oil temp dropped to early 80s on the motorways and although it would get into the 130s on trackdays in the summer, as some as you came off the gas it would start to fall. Usually a couple of degrees per half mile. The water system gets a much easier time as well. My Golf could have got away with a smaller rad, except the I/C would have no support. The water temp rarely came out of the white. Even in traffic the oil would strat cooling again as soon as you moved off. All in all the benefits far outweigh the downsides. Oil cooling should be addressed on std cars and is essential on chipped ones. Gavin

Do it any old how, quick as you can - £15 p/h Don't go too mad - £25 p/h A quality job - £40 p/h Military - £60 p/h Funny that the std airline rate for labour used to be $75 an hour!! And probably hasn't gone up much since 2000 H8RRA, I was at Cosford for 3 years, 85-88. Then Finningley and St Mawgan on Sea Kings, when I wasn't skiing anyway. I even taught the Sea King Q course for Fairies. Only four, 6 week courses a year. A proper shame there was no internet back then. :mrgreen:

I have to chime in with the Weitec. Good quality (german) and IMO a great ride on both road and track. I have used both the TA and non-adjustable kits and TBH. TA isn't worth the extra, if you softened the TAs so that you could tell, they weren't stiff enough to control the springs and it went all bouncy. I had some Eibachs and Bilstein shocks on my MK3 16V. A truely hideous combination. I still don't know if the shocks weren't stiff enough or if the springs were too stiff. Swapping to a Weitec kit was a revelation, even my wife made a comment, which was very unusual!!! :shocked!: Gavin

Aren't they ISO 9001 and BS5750 still? Maybe you can involve the authorities. Trading standards etc. As for painting the inside of a dipstick tube or sump, that doesn't sound right. Maybe the finish from manufacture was bad/incorrect, if so then they should be sorting it out. I worked there for a week on a work placement when I left the RAF in 1996. I didn't see anyone painting anything except the blocks in that nasty, but distinctive blue! (Where's the puking smiley when you need it??) In fact at the time they seemed nearly as keen as the RAF. Admittedly Tim was still the gaffer back then. They only warrant the engines for 12 months/12000 miles if they fit them themselves. Even still if you can prove bad workmanship or substandard parts were used then the 'law' should be on your side. Gavin

Get the foam in black mate, no need to spray it. I think we have some at work. Gavin

The bonnet switches I use are from GT Alarms. The first one I fitted is nearly 4 years old and I haven't had any come back yet. I can fire you a picture if you like, when I get home tonight. send me an email to remind me. Gavin

I don't think any are truely waterproof. Where is it sited? I always stick them in the slam panel. Although I have seen VW dealer fit alarms that have them on brackets at the back of the engine bay. The ones I use have a rubber cover to stop water getting in the top. I also soak them in spray waxoyl before fitting the cover. I have plenty of spares, I'll send you one for a quid if you want. Gavin

IWS, they could be turned right down sensitivity wise, or maybe one is disconnected or the lead damaged. If it's the latter, I have plenty of GT sonics in the garage, you can have some for the cost of the postage. Most of the ones I have seen have the same connectors on them. Gavin

Spring compressors are a good idea. Or you'll be getting friendly with a dentist. :mrgreen: Gavin

The alarm senses a sudden earth when the boot is opened. Assuming the switch works OK. Connecting at the light is the normal thing to do. Can you imagine the time it would take to run the wire through into the tailgate....... I can't see how the boot light would do anything to the ultrasonics. In fact taking the bulb out of the holder shouldn't stop an armed alarm from triggering if the boot were to be opened. Have you locked yourself in the car to try the ultrasonics out??? Sit still for a minute or 2 as the alarm won't look at the sonics straight away. Do some breakdancing to try and trigger it. WHat happens? Lippy, was I looking something up for you??? And then didn't. Vague memory............... Gavin EDIT checked PMs, did you sort the bonnet switch.

I have a good one that cost 2.99 I think it was from Netto. Keep it in the car. Gavin

g-man is the expert but a full sump might prevent the oil from draining properly out of the charger. You could hook the charger up without fitting it. Like Darren says you need to see oil coming out of the drain. Run the engine at tickover, if you let it idle you should have plenty of time to see the oil flowing before the water gets anywhere near hot. Really there isn't a lot of oil that comes out, at tickover I would expect a steady drip, going to a constant trickle if you raise the revs. Try blowing through the drain line by removing it from the engine. The drain line banjo bolt is clean isn't it? Gavin

Do you use any cement of any kind on them? The housing should be bone dry and grease free. I used bearing cement on mine which seemed ok. Made by loctite.. I don't if g-man does or not. The outer one shouldn't be pushed all the way in, it should sit proud by about a millimetre. If you push them all the way in, they can block the drain hole which will off course jack up the pressure in the charger until something gives. I guess the inner seal first.... Gavin

I get the impression the line went straight on to the filter mount, without the restricter. It's not the just the pressure, the volume of oil is just as important. Although, if the return line were blocked eventually the line pressure would climb to system pressure. Gavin

double-6s, PM stanbates. The head off his dead Vr had just been overhauled. I am pretty sure it's available. No idea of the price. Gavin

I suspect that when you ran the charger with oil pressure off the filter head, you damaged more than the seals you replaced. Maybe the springs that hold the lip of the seals tight against the shafts have popped off? How on earth did you hook it up to the filter housing anyway???????????? The oil line is about 2 feet long! Oil only drips out of this line with the engine running. Also, are you sure there's no kinks in the return line to the block? I had a problem with a charger that kept blowing oil seals from behind the pulley. I never got a conclusive answer as to why. I suspect the seals were from a batch that were slightly undersize and maybe I wasn't installing them into a perfectly oil free housing. In the end I made a plate to sit between the charger and the bracket to stop them blowing out. I think I did 3 or 4 before stopping the problem. At tickover with low pressure the seals on my car were fine. Only once driving did they blow out again. Gavin

Warrington meeting a week on sunday? Gavin

Andy, was best pleased with that but there wasn't any way of getting the filter box in due to the battery. Not many spares holes for fresh to enter. One for the to do list though. Gavin

There is a loom from the fusebox to the headlight switch, one to the stalk from the fusebox and then one that goes off under the bonnet from the fusebox. I would think the latter 2 to be more likely. If it's any help, you should be able to use Passat looms from the fusebox to the 2 stalks and maybe to the lights at a push. The headlight plugs would have to be spliced in though. Gavin

I haven't got my Bentlry at home so I can't check for you. A MK2 or Passat manual would tell you where the wires go to and from. Power out of the switch could be getting stopped before the indicator stalk if the wires are burnt through or not connected. Gavin

4 motion engine. Starts with 204 but this has been chipped, with a custom code chip not sure what that takes them too. It is very smooth though. Will let Stan decide if he wants to say how much he spent all together. Gavin

I didn't mention how it sounds did I. Very subtle from both inside and out. Just right IMO. Gavin

Well what can I say................... Anyone with two kidneys should consider selling one for a 24V conversion. :mrgreen: 0-ludicrous speed in 6 seconds.:nono: It drives really well, pulling from any revs in any gear. That's without winding it off the clock. I was changing up at 5000, nice and smooth. Anyone have shares in BP? :norty: Big brakes next............ Gavin

PSI Tuning, I think the contact details are near the beginning of the thread. Stan said he'd call in at mine on his way home. Maybe I'll be able to post his first impressions!! Giddy :mrgreen: