h100vw

Have they had the cam covers off? To check the timing of the cams in relation to each other??????????? Just checking the belt and crank are in time is not enough. The cams need to be in phase with each other too. Getting the cams right can be a pain. It's not a difficult job if you wanted to check it yourself. You need to remove the inlet manifold and the cam cover. Both jobs are dead easy and you only need a few tools. Gavin

And on a sticker in the boot. Does the engine number match the log book?

That looks like a Golf inlet manifold to me. If the engine number starts KR like Henny and Scott say its a 1.8. Unless you have proof it has been worked on. Gavin

You can modify the sump for the oil return. Drill a hole above the level of the oil at rest and weld a nut on the sump that'll take a banjo bolt. Job done. No offence is meant when we question your ability, it does seem though that if you need to ask this kind of question there are some holes in your knowledge. :) Your 16V low compression gasket, where did you get that? Is it a thick copper or stainless affair? It will be easy to bolt all the bits on but you have a lot more scope for things going wrong with forced induction. A few seconds of detonation will total an engine completely. Gavin

293kmh is nearly 180 MPH. Christ on a bike, that's fast (if infact true)! :roll: Gavin

He might be on about Audi S2 pistons to drop the CR?? Gavin

Some folk would tell you to have the head off to make sure. I would defo clean the inlet pipes out and remove the I/C and give that a swill out. Check in the throttle body for any metal bits and make an assessment from there as to whether the head should be removed. Do you know for sure the replacement charger is any good? Gavin

Nice looker. Powerwise you have what you are going to get, unless you have a bottomless wallet. You could have the head flowed and a cam. Your next serious problem is the standard intercooler. That'll see off a grand, maybe a touch more if you are going to have to pay for labour. Henny will be along later to tell you how much more power costs!! I think you should enjoy it for what it is. A smart car that handles well, looks great and stays in front of 99% of the traffic on the road. :mrgreen: Gavin

They prolly work OK up to about 1500 revs and then it starts to go wrong!! :mrgreen: Is that g-werks in no way connected to 58mm pullies :lol:

Anyone dare buy one? :shocked!: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie ... 94279&rd=1 Fancy your chargers chances :angel: Gavin

:lol:

Too much time and money :roll: :wink: Get yourself married to prevent both of the above. :mrgreen: Gavin

Email him and see if you can cut a deal. He doesn't mention that he will but you never know. Bid him with your head not your heart. :lol:

Rotor rotates clockwise, so you need to turn the dissy anticlockwise to make it spark earlier. Gavin

The white things are pegs to stop the fusebox falling out. Once the box is in the bracket you shove a peg between the plastic on the end of the fusebox pivot and the outside of the bracket. Rotate the peg upwards and it should click into place. There is a pip on it to stop it swinging about. If you only get one on that'll be enough. Gavin

Now Darren, that's someones baby your talking about :mrgreen: I'd have gone to a grand and brought a boroscope home from work to avoid taking the head off. Not the cheapo one for looking at valves, one like you see on those nasty operating theatres on telly. :cry: I reckon a grand is safe, you could break it for more money if it turns out to be a no goer. Gavin

Do you have assistance on your brakes or is the pedal 'dead'. There is a pressure switch on the pump of LHD G60s (cannot be tooo different to a VR in principle), if it senses low pressure in the accumulator it runs the pump using the relay you have manually bypassed. I don't believe that the ECU can check the switch as there is no connection between the two. It may know some other way that there is something wrong cos it has a power feed missing?? On a LHD Golf/Corrado/Rallye the pump is run by the switch and the relays, the ECU has no control. Gavin

In additon to the PM I sent. The glowing manifold sounds like a cam timimg problem to me. Have them put your original cams back in and get your motor back. Gavin

I always put some copperslip on anyway. Imagine not doing it and getting a sqeak, then having to do the job over :roll: Gavin

Hall sender, now you have said G60. You can get another from any digifant engined golf/jetta/passat they are all the same. It could still be the ECU relay though. Find it, take the lid off and check the soldered joints inside. I have seen a few that have gone dry, giving intermittent running, flatspots etc. Gavin

No worries, let me know if you need that housing off me. Gavin

If the 16V has one, try the ecu relay then. Gavin

If its an 1800 SEAT then I reckon it would go on. If not I have A KR motor in my garage and I can sort you out. Gavin

Yeah if the immobiliser was duff the fuel pump would go as well, I reckon. Gavin

Dealers should have the screws, GSF/Euro may do too. They might be missing due to shearing off previously. If so just make sure the broken bit sits under the hole in the disc. If you dont the disc may not sit right on the hub and you'll get a warped disc feel in the brakes. No need to loctite the pipes in. Assuming you do them tight enough not to leak, they won't come undone. Gavin