fendervg

Do VW 288 front discs and the rears come with an anti-corrosion coating nowadays ? I know some other brands do, but wondering if VAG have them, as they tend to last longer.

Still going to do a complete flush when the weather improves with ATE Blue fluid. Managed to get some air out of the m/c today, and the brakes come in earlier and it has made a slight improvement.

Cheers Kev - sounds like there is no easy solution - although I am going to try and bleed the m/c anf ABS as some people seem to have found that this makes an improvement.

Wondering if anyone who has a 288 front brake conversion on their VR6 has fitted a larger master cylinder to improve pedal feel - I know you need to do this on a MkII Golf when fitting G60 callipers. Is there a larger one available ? Maybe a MkIII VR6 item ? My pedal still feels soft and has a lot of travel, although it really bites when you brake hard.

Yeah, I guess it was too late by then - still would have been nice if they'd had more stopping power from the get go.

Finally got round to getting these fitted - big difference. The 288 just fit under the speedlines, and fill out the rims nicely - the rears are reassuring, and hopefully they shoul dnot suffer from any seizinf like the MkIIs. Brake feel is very positive and definitely better. The only issue was the Mk2 to Mk4 rear hoses - the banjo nut was the wrong size and we had to get a new one from a hydraulic hose place. I went for all new parts, but you could get away with refurbed s/h items - especially the carriers, as these are very pricey. Definitely a mod well woth doing and still OEM - VR6s should probably have had 288s as standard anyway seeing as the Mk3 Golf Vr6 had them.

You'll get better at it as you go along - tools, and the right ones are v. important. Ajob that's nearly impossible will be a piece of cake with the right tool. Also worth knowing a few tricks such as how to free seized bolts - you can use heat, penetrating oil, a stud extractor, bolt remover or even a torx or spline that's slightly larger than the bolt head socket hammered in. And always have a few spares around - bolt, clips etc as these are often useless after removal.

I have one in my VR6 - I like it - not as dark as black. I do think you need grey plastics though, and I have a pair of black mats instead of grey, as they hide the grey carpet a bit. Check out my link in the sig for pics.

Doing the discs and pads should fix it. It often happens if new pads are fitted wihtout replacing the discs. Two options - if you know an old style garage, get the discs skimmed if there is enough leeway on it, this removes a small layer from them, or look at your pads and sand away the edges to get a curved profile on them.

Well, mine used to live up there until it came south and changed number plates - Wales before that. The previous owner had no problems with the main dealers - good for parts and general servicing/maintenance.

How long does it take to carry out one of these remaps - is it a chip fitting and rolling road or just a swap ? I've got a standard VR, and am very tempted to hop over on the ferry from Ireland after hearing all the good things about them.

Have a look at this thread: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=93362

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone has got a bodyshop to mount the Corrado 3rd brake light in the OEM position under the spoiler. I know the US boot lids have it cut out, but getting hold of one in Ireland is unlikely - I have all the parts, and if anyone has done it, would be handy to have some pointers and maybe a few pics. Cheers.

IT Security contractor - various clients.

No further updates - current priority is a brake upgrade and refurb and fitting an iPod/iPhone aux adapter to work via the cd changer controls. PM also sent.

I think you are looking for a B4 Passat VR6 - although the Passat 288s are much harder to fine - I'd go for the Golf VR6 ones and just change the brake hoses to banjo fittings.

The search is on your side - check out this thread for all the part numbers. viewtopic.php?f=23&t=93362

Actually I just bought one of these for my VR6 recently - it was a fabric one with velcro fastenings Part# 357915411C €25.27 with discount

Check the plastic trim that covers the top of the pedals under the driver's parcel shelf - this is located with a plastic screw type thing right at the front of the footwell and if not seated properly will cause the pedal arm to rub when depressed/released, making a noise - cheap easy fix if it is this. Next check the clutch release bearing - the gearbox cover plate has to come off to check this.

Fitted the cruise control stalk this evening - looks nice but doesn't do anything yet. The ECU is next, along with the brake pedal switch and the loom connections. The hardest part of switching over the stalk is removing the lower steering wheel cowl without breaking it - if it's never been off before (unlikely at this stage in a C's life!) it will be secured by 2 screws in the long recesses either side, and possibly another self tapper in the middle section. These screws are a right pain to get back in, so don't be surprised if an alarm fitter just threw them away in exasperation. There are a number of locating tabs and lugs all around the edges and these need to be lined up very carefully - the brittle plastic will break very easily. The screws can still be got new from VW for pennies. Once in there, and with the wheel off (straighten the steering up and use some chalk to mark the alignment, use a 24mm socket and short extension on the securing nut, unclip the horn wire as well, the horn push cover just prises off), 3 long narrow screws hold the stalks on - a narrow blade flat screwdriver is your friend here, 2 screws at the top, left and right, and one on the bottom left. After that both the wiper and indicator assemblies will be loose, these are a unit that just clips together, some gentle persuasion at the contacts will separate them. Give everything a good clean, expecially the contacts, and some grease on rotating surfaces. The cc stalk just slips on as a straight swap and the 4 pin connector to the loom tucks away into the lower dash on the left. Test everything with the ignition on before putting the wheel back - lights, indicators, hazards, wipers, dip etc. and be carefully that the indicator is in the off position when refitting the wheel so that the self cancelling mech lines up properly. I've done this on a Golf 2 as well, and it's much the same, so the procedure will be valid for both pre and post facelift cars.

Just to update this thread - the relays did not make a difference, but probably no harm to replace them on a 15+ year old car anyway. What fixed my starting issue was to replace the fuel pressure regulator on the right hand side of the injection rail with a new one - the car starts on the button every time now - I imagine what was happening was that the fuel pressure was dropping over time when the car was sitting, which would take it longer to start. About €75 euro new.

I'm thinking of using a small syringe to apply it without making too much of a mess.

I've just asked my mechanic here in Ireland to check prices and availability for the following from VAG - at present dealers here are doing a 25% discount over normal trade prices on brake service parts, so it will be interesting to see if this applies to older cars as well: Front: 1 x 3A0615123 calliper with 54mm pistons lh 1 x 3A0615124 calliper with 54mm pistons rh 2 x 4A0615125A calliper carriers, 288 mmm 4 x 4D0698647 Calliper guide bushes 4 x N90708502 calliper carrier mounting bolt 2 x 3A0615301A Front brake discs, 288 mmm 1 x 8N0698151 Front brake pads, set Rear: 1 x 1J0615423 rear calliper, lh 1 x 1J0615424 rear calliper, rh 1 x 1H0615425 calliper carrier, lh 1 x 1H0615426 calliper carrier, rh 1 x Goodridge kit part number- SVW0506-2P 2 x 191598625 rear wheel bearings 2 x Rear discs (standard corrado rear) 1 x rear pads (standard VR6)

Another update - managed to take some snaps of the cruise control kit: IMG_0146.jpg[/attachment:29bgm639] You can see the vac actuator on the left, stalk with loom connectors, the ecu, control loom, throttle cable, brake position switch and mounting parts, including fittings to take a tap from the vaccum lines in the bay. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfvr6-cruise2.jpg[/attachment:29bgm639]

No more info ? Come on lads, get out your receipts and start posting ! Surely we have some more info out there. Just want to make the conversion easier off the shelf for myself and others.