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I had exactly the same symptoms and tracked it down to a faulty fuel pressure regulator - not too expensive and easy to replace - it's the silver cylinder that sits at the front of the fuel rail on the off side. Worth a try.

Will definitely take 2 sets - thanks, and great work on trying to get these sorted.

Is there still a quick link for viewing "my posts" ?

Mine had 36k on it when I bought it nearly 2 years ago - now has 47k. Having said that you're still dealing with a 17 year old car, so low mileage isn't everything. Some parts are just going to go over time, and rust never sleeps.

@Diesel Junior Not fitted it yet - in typical corrado fashion the sunroof broke, and the aux water pump died and the oil cooler seals need replacing. So the cc has moved down the list. Do you have OEM cc or an aftermarket fit ? My only problem is where to take the RPM signal from, as I don't have a clutch sensor - I'm thinking the coil.

Came across these fuse holders from Posi Products - the nice thing is that there is no soldering or crimping - just trim the wire and the exposed part is inserted into one of the end caps and tightened. I've used the blade holder to sort out an alarm fuse problem where the install monkey has used a push on spade that kept coming loose - no alarm, no car. The second one is handy for the headlight earth fuse preventative install - will take a Maplins 200 ma fuse. They are a bit pricey but worth it. They also do a nice vampire tap along the same lines and an inline splicer as well as waterproof ones. Available online from the manufacturer or from Radionics - might be worth a group buy as the price comes down with quantity. Just search for posi tap or posi twist.

@kevhaywire Over here in eire it's not that your car is riding low, but there are so many speed bumps. potholes and dodgy ramps that a 90 mm just grounds constantly - and my car is on OEM suspension ! Lost both my air duct panels from the bottom recently, they make some racket before they die - so I guess 70mm has to be a good compromise, as the 50 seems obsolete and is a bit small.

ARZ Tuning sell the light parts - connectors and bulbs available from VAG. This fitting is the hardes though - on my list.

Have VCDS and HEX+CAN serial and 2x2 adapter for older cars in Clonsilla, Dublin if anyone needs scan. 087 4185559

Interested in the black oem style 70mm spoiler...thanks

Just did a quick bleed of the m/c and abs pump today - no one had touched the pump - the nipples were nearly seized, and there was some air in the m/c as well. Forgot to kill the brake vaccuum by pumping the pedal first though! The brakes are now better - still a fair bit of pedal travel but much more powerful. I'm going to take it to VAG to get a proper pressure bleed done - and if that doesn't work give it a full run through with ATE Blue racing fluid and eazy bleed. Next up is the aux water pump, and then sunroof repair.

What do they look like, the pepper pots?

Does anybody run a set of steel winter wheels for their VR6, and if so, what are they ? I know on the MkII Golf I had a set of G60 steels, but they were 4 stud, so just wondering if there is an equivalent 5 stud version. Cheers.

Updated list with more part numbers for rear discs, pads and ABS rings. That should be pretty much it. Can we make this sticky if possible ? Thanks.

Haven't had a chance to take the radio out - but here's the pinout: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfgamma4_pin.JPG[/attachment:3jwmivz8] and I've also attached the wiring plan in german for the Gamma 4 as it was fitted to the Passat at the time - much the same as the Corrado. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf

I should be able to get a picture later - just bear in mind when buying that the green illumination only came on radios up to 1998 - after that the Gamma IV had red button and blue lcd lighting to match the newer dashes.

There a signal L and signal R out on the CD changer ISO connector block, no other line out or preamp sockets - but that's all I can tell you I'm afraid.

This is exactly the head unit I have - I run it with a Connects2 Ipod aux adaptor that plugs into the cd changer connector and it works with the iPod nano and iPhone 3GS, but you need an additional adapter to charge the later iPhones, as Apple changed the charging setup - then you simply press the cd button, and you can use the shuffle, forward and back controls on the head unit - but no text. Of course it also works with a normal cd changer. Sound quality is fine for everyday use and it looks OEM. I think the Gamma IV was relatively high end at the time, and it even has phone mute and GALA (speed dependent volume control) functions which work really nicely - the wiring for the volume control is already there. @Pat - let me know if you can get hold of any more with the green backlighting as it could be handy to have a spare around.

Do VW 288 front discs and the rears come with an anti-corrosion coating nowadays ? I know some other brands do, but wondering if VAG have them, as they tend to last longer.

Still going to do a complete flush when the weather improves with ATE Blue fluid. Managed to get some air out of the m/c today, and the brakes come in earlier and it has made a slight improvement.

Cheers Kev - sounds like there is no easy solution - although I am going to try and bleed the m/c anf ABS as some people seem to have found that this makes an improvement.

Wondering if anyone who has a 288 front brake conversion on their VR6 has fitted a larger master cylinder to improve pedal feel - I know you need to do this on a MkII Golf when fitting G60 callipers. Is there a larger one available ? Maybe a MkIII VR6 item ? My pedal still feels soft and has a lot of travel, although it really bites when you brake hard.

Yeah, I guess it was too late by then - still would have been nice if they'd had more stopping power from the get go.

Finally got round to getting these fitted - big difference. The 288 just fit under the speedlines, and fill out the rims nicely - the rears are reassuring, and hopefully they shoul dnot suffer from any seizinf like the MkIIs. Brake feel is very positive and definitely better. The only issue was the Mk2 to Mk4 rear hoses - the banjo nut was the wrong size and we had to get a new one from a hydraulic hose place. I went for all new parts, but you could get away with refurbed s/h items - especially the carriers, as these are very pricey. Definitely a mod well woth doing and still OEM - VR6s should probably have had 288s as standard anyway seeing as the Mk3 Golf Vr6 had them.

You'll get better at it as you go along - tools, and the right ones are v. important. Ajob that's nearly impossible will be a piece of cake with the right tool. Also worth knowing a few tricks such as how to free seized bolts - you can use heat, penetrating oil, a stud extractor, bolt remover or even a torx or spline that's slightly larger than the bolt head socket hammered in. And always have a few spares around - bolt, clips etc as these are often useless after removal.