fendervg

Or ARZ tuning in Germany - I got some last year.

Heater matrix - not good - a pain in the backside to do.

Just passed our NCT (Irish version of the MoT) yesterday - it was in on Saturday and had a fail advisory on off side brake light and ABS light - typical, the brake light was fine before it went int and then I saw it through the window of the viewer's gallery - the ABS light is just pot luck - so went back with a new bulb fitted and the ABS light switching off and got my cert for another year. Not bad for a car pushing on 19 years old. Brake efficiency was at 85% as well - highest I've seen on any car I've put through.

Great work - two please, with pp to Ireland ! Thanks.

You can count me in for a RHD lower screen trim in fiberglass please.

Nice one Pat - have this in mine and it looks great and OEM. It's not a bad radio either for its era.

I have the reverse of this problem ! When cold and warming up the ABS light functions normally, after about 20 minutes it comes on and stays on, when the engine has warmed up. It will often go off again after sitting with the ignition off for a few minutes, even when warm. Go figure! There seems to be no logic to ABS faults and troubleshooting which is why a lot of people just buy a new pump - something I don't want to do unless absolutely certain that it will fix this issue.

Sometimes you can't really tell where a leak is coming from by looking at the stains - it will travel a long way. Oil cooler seals are the prime candidate and known to fail, also as above, rocker cover and cam seals. Also check the oil filter housing - I've seen this go on without the seal a few times - and the drain plug in the middle.

It was my 40th yesterday - got a lovely present from my wife of "Das Grosse VW Corrado Buch" - lovely coffee table book with some great pictures, hard to find tech info and details on all the once offs. Helps if you can read German like me though - would have been nice if they had produced an english translation as the car has such a great following here.

How did you bleed it ?

Changed gearbox oil today - here's a quick guide: I went for Redline MT-90, you can get it from Opie Oils - the Corrado gearbox oil capacity is 2 litre, but the MTL comes in US size bottles, 0.945 litres, so you will need three - I had a half one left over from a previous change, but I'd say you could get by with just two, as there will always be a bit of old oil left in the gearbox after draining it. You will need a 17mm hex for the drain and fill plugs, a ratchet or ratchet wrench, a 2 foot piece of plastic tubing and a funnel and a tray to catch the old oil in. Make sure you can undo the filler plug first, other wise you will be stuck with an empty gearbox and no way to get the new oil back in easily! The filler is at the front of the gearbox (near the fan switch), and the drain plug is underneath the bell housing flange - see the red circles in the pictures. A jack on one side will also help with access. To get at the filler plug, I used the hex socket and a ratchet wrench, as it's a bit tight to get a full spanner in there because one of the power steering lines is in the way. You can also see my home made filling mechanism. Once it's fully drained, do up the drain plug and fill slowly with new oil. The correct level is just up to the lip of the filler hole when the car is completely level. VW recommend filling it to there, and then spinning the gearbox about 20 times and topping it up again. Then do the plug back up, clean up and enjoy a silky smooth gear change....

Try replacing the fule pressure regulator on the side of the fuel rail - small cyclindrical unit - fixed this on mine. What's happening is that the residual fuel pressure is dropping below the required level, and it needs a fair few cranks to build up again.

Hey Dave - how can we order ?

Any old ones will have been damaged unless removed very carefully though, so may not sit and seal properly.

Available new from arz tuning in Germany and also from the stealers

I think you can get them special order - btw, the one kit is for the 2.8 Golf VR, the other is for the 2.9, so make sure you check that out. The oil cooler hoses need to be ordered separately.

Up towards the beam ?

Anyone have any tips on locking the compensator for bleed ing ? Which way should it go and how do you keep it open ? Cable tie ? Or if I jack up the rear beam, would that be enough..... Many thanks,

And a couple of pices of my Passat sunvisor:

Some more work today - OEM discs front and rear, with Ferrodo pads, and rear bearings replaced. There was a lovely shine to the discs after rbeakeing the pads in - and a bleed with ATE Blue DOT4 fluid for good measure, including the clutch, which was a doddle with the pictured pressure bleeder.

Changed the fuel filter yesterday - very easy, just make sure you soak the nut holding the clamp well in advance with some pen oil, get two hose clamps on the rubber fuel pipe sections at each end, and if they are original hose clips, cut them off and replace with new ones, as the old ones will be shot to pieces. Beware the old one will still be full of fuel, and it will take a couple of tries to prime the fuel system again.

Ok: Repair kit with cables - includes both sides and is sometimes all you need 1 x 1H0898014A Rear water guides, left and right: 1 x 1H0 898 019 - repair kit 1 x 1H0 898 020 - repair kit Front spring arms, left and right: 1 x 1H0898018A 1 x 1H0898017A Special lube: 1 x G 000 450 02 No idea on sterling prices as I got them here in IReland in euro, but probably cheaper and all still available. Hope this helps/

There are 3 parts each side for the repair - one kit will do both sides and comes with the cables - then there is a water guide at the back and a sprung arm assembly at the front. I can get you part numbers for the lot later. You should also invest in a tube of the VAG "special" sunroof lube - have a search and you will find a couple of threads on it.

Are you giving £3000 away, or is it all just wishful thinking ? B )

grey electric recaros and a paint touch up and underseal