fendervg

I have one in my VR6 - I like it - not as dark as black. I do think you need grey plastics though, and I have a pair of black mats instead of grey, as they hide the grey carpet a bit. Check out my link in the sig for pics.

Doing the discs and pads should fix it. It often happens if new pads are fitted wihtout replacing the discs. Two options - if you know an old style garage, get the discs skimmed if there is enough leeway on it, this removes a small layer from them, or look at your pads and sand away the edges to get a curved profile on them.

Well, mine used to live up there until it came south and changed number plates - Wales before that. The previous owner had no problems with the main dealers - good for parts and general servicing/maintenance.

How long does it take to carry out one of these remaps - is it a chip fitting and rolling road or just a swap ? I've got a standard VR, and am very tempted to hop over on the ferry from Ireland after hearing all the good things about them.

Have a look at this thread: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=93362

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone has got a bodyshop to mount the Corrado 3rd brake light in the OEM position under the spoiler. I know the US boot lids have it cut out, but getting hold of one in Ireland is unlikely - I have all the parts, and if anyone has done it, would be handy to have some pointers and maybe a few pics. Cheers.

IT Security contractor - various clients.

No further updates - current priority is a brake upgrade and refurb and fitting an iPod/iPhone aux adapter to work via the cd changer controls. PM also sent.

I think you are looking for a B4 Passat VR6 - although the Passat 288s are much harder to fine - I'd go for the Golf VR6 ones and just change the brake hoses to banjo fittings.

The search is on your side - check out this thread for all the part numbers. viewtopic.php?f=23&t=93362

Actually I just bought one of these for my VR6 recently - it was a fabric one with velcro fastenings Part# 357915411C €25.27 with discount

Check the plastic trim that covers the top of the pedals under the driver's parcel shelf - this is located with a plastic screw type thing right at the front of the footwell and if not seated properly will cause the pedal arm to rub when depressed/released, making a noise - cheap easy fix if it is this. Next check the clutch release bearing - the gearbox cover plate has to come off to check this.

Fitted the cruise control stalk this evening - looks nice but doesn't do anything yet. The ECU is next, along with the brake pedal switch and the loom connections. The hardest part of switching over the stalk is removing the lower steering wheel cowl without breaking it - if it's never been off before (unlikely at this stage in a C's life!) it will be secured by 2 screws in the long recesses either side, and possibly another self tapper in the middle section. These screws are a right pain to get back in, so don't be surprised if an alarm fitter just threw them away in exasperation. There are a number of locating tabs and lugs all around the edges and these need to be lined up very carefully - the brittle plastic will break very easily. The screws can still be got new from VW for pennies. Once in there, and with the wheel off (straighten the steering up and use some chalk to mark the alignment, use a 24mm socket and short extension on the securing nut, unclip the horn wire as well, the horn push cover just prises off), 3 long narrow screws hold the stalks on - a narrow blade flat screwdriver is your friend here, 2 screws at the top, left and right, and one on the bottom left. After that both the wiper and indicator assemblies will be loose, these are a unit that just clips together, some gentle persuasion at the contacts will separate them. Give everything a good clean, expecially the contacts, and some grease on rotating surfaces. The cc stalk just slips on as a straight swap and the 4 pin connector to the loom tucks away into the lower dash on the left. Test everything with the ignition on before putting the wheel back - lights, indicators, hazards, wipers, dip etc. and be carefully that the indicator is in the off position when refitting the wheel so that the self cancelling mech lines up properly. I've done this on a Golf 2 as well, and it's much the same, so the procedure will be valid for both pre and post facelift cars.

Just to update this thread - the relays did not make a difference, but probably no harm to replace them on a 15+ year old car anyway. What fixed my starting issue was to replace the fuel pressure regulator on the right hand side of the injection rail with a new one - the car starts on the button every time now - I imagine what was happening was that the fuel pressure was dropping over time when the car was sitting, which would take it longer to start. About €75 euro new.

I'm thinking of using a small syringe to apply it without making too much of a mess.

I've just asked my mechanic here in Ireland to check prices and availability for the following from VAG - at present dealers here are doing a 25% discount over normal trade prices on brake service parts, so it will be interesting to see if this applies to older cars as well: Front: 1 x 3A0615123 calliper with 54mm pistons lh 1 x 3A0615124 calliper with 54mm pistons rh 2 x 4A0615125A calliper carriers, 288 mmm 4 x 4D0698647 Calliper guide bushes 4 x N90708502 calliper carrier mounting bolt 2 x 3A0615301A Front brake discs, 288 mmm 1 x 8N0698151 Front brake pads, set Rear: 1 x 1J0615423 rear calliper, lh 1 x 1J0615424 rear calliper, rh 1 x 1H0615425 calliper carrier, lh 1 x 1H0615426 calliper carrier, rh 1 x Goodridge kit part number- SVW0506-2P 2 x 191598625 rear wheel bearings 2 x Rear discs (standard corrado rear) 1 x rear pads (standard VR6)

Another update - managed to take some snaps of the cruise control kit: IMG_0146.jpg[/attachment:29bgm639] You can see the vac actuator on the left, stalk with loom connectors, the ecu, control loom, throttle cable, brake position switch and mounting parts, including fittings to take a tap from the vaccum lines in the bay. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfvr6-cruise2.jpg[/attachment:29bgm639]

No more info ? Come on lads, get out your receipts and start posting ! Surely we have some more info out there. Just want to make the conversion easier off the shelf for myself and others.

Got the stalk today - €91.00 from VAG in Ireland, arrived in 4 days from Germany.2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfcruise-control 001.jpg[/attachment:25irh123]cruise-control 002.jpg[/attachment:25irh123]

Cheers for the info, lads. I have updated the original post with part numbers. We still need some more for: ABS rotors Rear Pads Rear discs Rear bearings

Cheers - I just want to get all the part numbers in one place.

Hi all, looking to start a definitve thread on this and if the information is good enough we should make it sticky. A common mod is to fit MkIV Golf rear brake callipers to stop seizing and make them more reliable. The old MkII rears that were fitted to nearly all VAGs of a certain vintage are notorious for the handbrake cable mechanism freezing up, leading to pad squeal, seized callipers, or even worse, smoke. 288 mm front callipers are also a worthy upgrade as they increase pad contact area by a third, even for the relatively tiny disc diameter increase, and as far as my research goes, they will fit under 15" standard wheels, e.g. VR6 Speedlines. Both mods are 5 stud for VR6 in my case, although the rears can also be used on 8v/16v and G60 cars. We should put together a definitive list of the OEM part numbers for the components required for the conversion to act as point of reference for anyone wanting to do this - some will want to source parts secondhand and refurb, others will go for new. as the parts are all still available from the dealers. Nearly all VAG brake system parts are ATE or Girling. So basically we need: FRONT 1) 288mm callipers - ATE only, from late VR MkIII Golf, some Passats and possibly others. There are two types, banjo pipe and screw thread x2 From VR6 Golf3, banjo fitting 3A0615123 calliper with 54mm pistons lh 3A0615124 calliper with 54mm pistons rh From Passat,screw thread 4A0615123A calliper with 57mm pistons lh 4A0615124A calliper with 57mm pistons rh 2) 288mm front calliper carriers x2 4A0615125A calliper carriers 3) Calliper slider bolts and sleeves x 4 Guide bushes (For Golf VR6 1997/98) -VW Part no: 4D0 698 647 - you need 2 for each side 4) Carrier mounting bolts x 4 N90708502 Mounting bolt 5) 2 x front ABS rotors (where fitted) 6) Front flexi brake hoses - either Goodridge, VAG or DG Autotech x 2 VAG OEM 1H0611701B Brake hose front Goodridge full set braided SVW0604-6P and they are for a golf VR6 95on DG Autotech front hoses only: http://www.dgautotech.com/dgauto/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=53&category_id=25&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=96 7) Front 288mm discs x 2 3A0615301A Brake discs 8) Calliper rebuild kit - if buying used brakes Caliper Rebuild Kit (For Golf VR6 1997/98) -VW Part no: 3A0698471 - Set of seals = £12.51 inc vat, per side. This includes the Piston Seals & Piston Dust Covers 9) Front 288mm Brake pads 8N0698151 Front brake pads REAR 1) MkIV rear callipers x 2 Mk4 Golf Calipers = VW Part numbers: 1J0 615 423 & 1J0 615 424 = £76.50 + vat each 2) Rear calliper carriers x 2 (not neccesarily needed, as they should go straight on) 1H0615425 / 1H0615426 3) Rear Calliper carrier bolts x 4 ATE 4.0101-3601.2 or VAG N0139123 4) Rear Calliper slider bolts and sleeves x 4 8E0 698 470 B 5) Rear ABS rotors x 2 1H0501639 6) Goodridge Mk2=>MkIV Brake hose conversion kit (banjo fitting) x 1 Goodridge kit part number- SVW0506-2P ? 7) Handbrake cables and fittings VW part number: 1H0 609 712E = £11.32 + vat each x 2 8) Rear discs x 2 357615601B 9) Rear pads 1H069845G 10) Rear wheel bearings x 2 VW Part number: 191 598 625 You could also add brake fluid, splash shields, bleed nipples etc. but I think there is enought there to be going on with. I will do some research and update the thread as appropriate, and any help with part numbers will be much appreciated. I will add them in once they are confirmed as correct. Any corrections to the above or additional info/ideas is welcome. Cheers,

No bother - would anyone else like to venture an opinion /

As I thought - not as easy as it looks - ah well. I think I know what this part is now, having seen it before on the head cover seals for the MkII 1.8 engine - it's attached to one side of the head cover seal. Time to get ordering and get my hands dirty again. :D

Hi all, Was doing some work on the C yesterday (93 VR) and noticed some very slight oil weepage on the driver's side of the block, just eblow where the side of the air filter box is. Looking carefully, there is a half moon shaped rubber seal in the side of the block just below the where the head sits, and this is leaking slightly. Is this a cam shaft seal ? Is it easy to replace - at first sight you could just use a reverse thread to pull it and then ease a new one in, but harsh experience has taught me that these jobs are never as easy as they first appear - in Haynes language, " always bring more spanners with you than is in the book for the job". Anyone got any ideas ? Cheers.