fendervg

I think it’s on my thread as well. I’ll see if I can find it. There’s been plenty of discussion in the past on this if you search. Originally it was a VW retrofit fix to stop leak down via the feed pipe. There wouldn’t be any point fitting a NRV on the return, as that is the fuel pressure regulators job.

Agreed. ^this. But I think you can get the glass on its own, and the complete unit wasn’t cheap when it was available from VAG. The late fogs are an absolute pain, as they will all crack, and there’s no perfect solution. Replacing the lenses involves a lot of labour as you need to break the glass, clean and seal etc. Also watch out as a lot of the replacements will only work with LEDs, not halogen bulbs, due to the heat. Classics should really get these remade.

Sounds like something is bridging battery live to the fuel pump - I'd check your ECU and fuel pump relays under the driver's side dash - I think (from memory) that 109 is ECU and 167/67 is the fuel pump, but a quick search should be able to confirm.

The one way valve should go the feed line to the engine with the flow direction arrow pointing toward the engine. This keeps the residual pressure from dropping over time. Same for the fuel filter. Also worth checking the fuel pressure regulator.

Was there not a guy from Germany selling copies of the lenses? Used to post on forum before it went paid - they’ll show up on eBay.de Think the username was sprinter?

I would tend to agree there, but would just like to hear from someone with actual experience of an agreed value payout. Sadly past experience has taught me that once an insurance company gets involved, you'll always end up out of pocket somehow. Insurance contracts tend to favour the insurer, and they spend a lot of time and money crafting them. Do your policies have a rake of conditions such as an annual mileage limit, to and from show and mechanics only etc.?

You should be seeing water coming out of the drain holes at the back of the front arches. and the rears. If you open the sunroof you can actually just carefully pour water down the drain channel. One of those bendy drain cleaners a bass guitar string can be handy for clearing any blockages in the tube.

I was going to suggest (maybe cynically) that the reason it doesn't make much of a difference to your premium is that they hardly ever pay out the full agreed valuation! Has anyone on here ever had a full agreed valuation paid out after a car has been written off? And would it be more expensive to buy back off the insurance because of the valuation? It's good to see a fair bit of discussion on prices going up though, won't do any harm at all.

Sunroof drains blocked or perished possibly. The drain fits onto a plastic spout on the corner of the sunroof tray, and this is a type of brittle plastic that can easily break. The water could be leaking at the sunroof and travelling down the outside of the tube. Is there a large amount of water ingress, or does it build up gradually over time? Rust/damage to the A-pillar or windscreen surround are also worth checking for - none of this is what you want to hear, and may make for nasty surprises lurking underneath, but you might need to strip as much of the interior trim as you can to get a better look.

I think this guy is the other side: 357941165 That's a very interesting site.

Cheeky sod - ask him where he gets them! 😉 and for how much.

Absolutely - I was only really making suggestions, or giving background info, rather than change the design and requirements. Leave it as it is - the OE connectors will be a major plus anyway.

Great stuff - let's hear what they have to say. If we can get the connectors sorted, I'm definitely in for one too. We'd also need to talk to Kurzy about how to handle the sidelights - with one 4-pin control connector you can power both sides off one feed by splitting the sidelight wire into two and running one to each headlight (disadvantage of this is that both will come on in the parking light position on the indicator), or if we use two OEM style receptacles, one with 4 pins and the other with just 1 pin for the sidelight, then you can plug in both of the original connectors and the parking light will work left or right side depending on the indicator stalk position.

A tidy profit for sure! That was the problem with the male/headlight end of the connector - it's actually molded into the casing, and back when I was looking there was no equivalent part available from VAG, as they were always part of the headlight unit - I ended up cutting it out of a broken lamp unit when I was making up my loom. Having said that a 4-pin square connector can't be that rate and it stands to reason that there might be one out there. The one on the sc-tuning loom has no markings or part numbers and looks like it might have been 3D printed or injected plastic. I wonder if you could ask the supplier of the female plugs about the other connector? There has to be a template somewhere, or else they wouldn't have been able to make it part of the housing.

Yeah, it's a nasty price tag isn't it? I suppose if you are only upgrading once and it's a one-off cost....and can be removed and sold/transferred to another car easily. The 4-pin square headlight connectors are 357941165, you'd also probably need the little grommets that seal against water, four of them, and they come in different sizes depending on the wire gauge - numbers in the image. You could probably seal them another way, or do without. VW will sell you a wiring repair kit, basically a length of wire with the contacts already crimped on - you can cut these in half and connect on to the loom, just make sure its at least as thick as the loom wire, or alternatively, get the contacts themselves and crimp/solder them directly on. That 4-pin headlight connector shows as being used for quite a few SEATs, Passat, Gold, Jetta in different markets.

No worries. It’s probably because it links directly to a pdf. It’s just a the fitting instructions in German - will more or less the same as any other loom.

Ah ok - so it's 3 wires at the TPS plug then - serves me right for being too lazy to open the bonnet in the rain the check! Looks like it was just a workaround for a bad earth then, to avoid having to inspect the whole loom and fix.

Here you go - but definitely sit down and put down your coffee before you check out the price! You'll need a bit of German or use Translate, but it's easy enough to work out - the pictures show the 2 OEM female connector plugs for the headlight end and also the two housing for the male connectors that plug straight into the existing loom: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Relaissatz-fuer-VW-Corrado-Plug-Play-2-0-zur-Lichtverbesserung-/182463499156 http://www.sc-tuning.de/assets/plugindata/poolc/Einbauanleitung Relaissatz PP 2.0 Corrado.pdf I didn't pay anywhere near as much as mine was second-hand, but wouldn't necessarily be put off either - although I think about 100-150 for a 4 relay loom with good connectors is about right. I guess it comes down to the discounts you can get for buying the components in bulk,, and I know there is also a lot of labour involved (and safety issues if you don't get it right) in making them, having made or modified a couple myself in the past.

Sounds strange - I would have thought the TPS was variable resistance, so one wire is + and the other -, with the ECU interpreting the difference - surely a separate earth straight to ground would mess this up? Do you have any pictures? Or could it be that your previous loom was for a motorised throttle on OBD2, maybe a AAA engine transplant from a Golf?

You should be able to get connectors for something more like €4 each, cheaper in bulk - I bet there are a few VAG cars in China or South America using them. That kit is aimed at the US market where a popular mod is to convert to European spec (E-Code) headlights - hence the need for new connectors and the price, although I see it comes with the pins and grommets too. As said above, they are not absolutely necessary, but a nice addition and make the uprated loom more OEM. BTW the quality of kurzy's loom is highly spoken of on here, so you won't be disappointed.

For what it's worth, all 92 VR6s and at least the first half of 1993 had the red VR6 badges and colour coded Corrado script. Also all the original VW roundels were chrome/silver. My 93 pearl grey metallic, manufactured in Jan 1993, has red VR badges front and rear, as per factory, and I think it suits the colour.

Personally - and only hypothetically speaking of course , I would only ever fit Topran if I had no other choice or to to get to the parts shop to buy some Febi or better ones.... There's a good few sorry tales of Topran parts failing pretty quickly - in my case an oil cooler and top mounts - having said that, bump stops can't be that hard to get right, and most cars are running around on ones that are years old.

Sounds interesting - but I think OE connectors at the headlight end are pretty important if you can get hold of them, because from experience I've had spade type terminals work loose or become corroded in the past. There's a German company on fleabay that sell 4-relay, 4 fuse loom, fully waterproofed and in a box with the OE connectors, at both ends - even the ones going to the original loom - I don't know where they managed to get that one, probably 3D printed - I cut up a damaged headlight unit to connect my uprated loom. But the German one is very pricey - SC Tuning was the company I think - I managed to pick up one second-hand that was never fitted and will see if I can dig it out for some pictures. From what I remember it actually has the male connectors at both ends, where one is just wired for the sidelights - lol this thread just reminded me that I should think about fitting it some day!

You don't really need the tool - the inner panel can be detached/pulled from the metal outer, rotated 90 degrees, and will then slide out to the front.

That smell of old gearbox oil always gets me - truly awful!