fendervg

Be careful with the powder coating as at can be a micro layer thicker than the original coating, even if sand blasted before hand and this might make it more snug when trying to fit a new bearing bush - I think that's why a lot of people go for poly ones, as they just go straight in. I've had to sand down powder finish on bicycle frames before when it came to refitting some parts.

Nah, I only have the one as well - that's enough to keep me broke!

Maybe your OEM loom has been replaced at some stage You will in any case still be improving safety and reliability by taking the current load off the headlight switch - helps to avoid nasty fires. Any I’ve measured before (Golf/Corrado/Audi CQ) have returned 11 to 12 v on original wiring. Strange.

Likewise to all! Here’s to a much improved 2021 and another year of Corrado ownership.

Nah, all the 80/90s VAGs had more or less the same crappy rear callipers that would seize at the first sign of dirt or rust - all the same size, 226mm. There's very little point in fitting bigger rears anyway as the front does all the work as the weight shifts forward under braking. I have seen some people adjust the rear bias valve on the beam to send more braking force to the rear after fitting bigger front kits - although the compensator is really there to help when you have a full boot or rear passengers. The dream rear conversion would be to the cassette type rear bearings and discs, where each can be replaced separately. Means changing over the stub axles etc. - I think it's a Polo part that's used.

Uprated loom for the win!

Cool - you might need to cross-check some of them as they may have changed or been superseded. I know ATE still sell the 288mm Mk3 VR6 front discs anyway.they even have anti-corrosion coating.

This is an old thread, but may be of help:

There's a special VAG tool for doing them in situ, pretty similar to the DIY versions - a lot of garages will just drop the whole beam and use a bearing/bench press. The tools can still be bought, and also come up on the secondary market relatively frequently, but hardly worth it considering how often you will be doing the job. Might be worth having a "tool library" organised by the club for things like that. The tool is VAG 3111: https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemid=27660108 or here, but sit down securely before you see the list price: https://www.dieselkontor.de/product_info.php?products_id=1104 I know I bought a small bench press to do my rear bearings a few years back, and have only used it once or twice since. Someone talented like daves16v on here could have a nice sideline making the DIY version and selling it on here and the Mk2/3 forums.

A Merry Christmas and prosperous New Year to all Corrado lovers and their cars - happy motoring and/or repairing!

Yep, blue is for ECU, yellow is for dash, and black/brown for fan control module - you can swap the ECU/gauge ones over when troubleshooting if you think you have a duff sensor.

The coolant gauge in the cluster can't really be considered accurate at all - the tech is too old, as are the gauges themselves - the only real way to tell is to plug in VCDS and compare the reading there with the gauge - the ECU takes its signal from the blue temp sender in the thermostat housing. I think the dash gauge should be read as cold=>warm=>worried=oh sh*t! Newer cars are designed so that the temp needle will sit centered on 90 no matter what when warm, unless something is seriously wrong with the cooling system - I think this is done so as not to alarm drivers if the needle fluctuates too much. My other car does not even have a temp gauge any more, just a warming up light, and then a warning lamp for over heating.

Where are you measuring coolant temperatures to 1 degree accuracy? Only way to do that is to read off the ECU - even the MFA oil temps tend to jump up in leaps of 2 or 4 degrees at a time. 90-100 is decent coolant temp, remember that coolant will boil at a lot higher than pure water.

Sounds like the wheels were newly balanced when you got the new tyres fitted - always worth checking and doesn't cost much to balance wheels.

Would you not go with 205/50 or 195/50 seeing as they are 15" wheels from your post?

There was never a seal or o-ring on mine, and none of the ones I bought had one. I can't see it doing any harm though.

Ah ok - never seen that before - it looks like it is the magnet/coil that sits on the camshaft and generates a signal for the cam or hall sensor - have never heard of anyone needing one of these. Would be the same part on a Ford though, so that might be worth checking out.

That sounds like terrible customer service. especially when dealing with enthusiasts. TBH, never been that impressed with them, really just a reseller for Classic Parts (which really should be available through the dealer network), and I've has some issues in the past with delays and quality - the really annoying thing is that they are now selling sh*tty spurious parts without really pointing this out - it will only lead to trouble - at least GSF used to give you and option of the quality level you wanted to buy when there was more than one available, and had it listed in the description. I'd rather a "specialist" site not stock an item rather than sell you a crap one that needs to be replaced several times over or is dead on arrival. And most of the parts where this applies can be sourced with a little effort, especially for a company like Heritage, it's just that they are afraid they won't be able to sell them as they are more expensive. Rant over - having said all that, Heritage have got me out of a good few holes over the years, and it's nice to have them as an option. I would have bought direct from SF and paid the taxes and import, and I always prefer dealing direct with Classic Parts in Germany if I can.

Do you mean the crank position sensor that sits on the front of the block near the oil filter? There are loads of cheap copies around, but the part is exactly the same on the Ford Galaxy VR6, so shouldn't be an issue getting one.

Met the postman as I arrived back home this morning from a visit with one of the cats to the vet, and he handed me a lovely parcel of Christmas loom goodness - thanks again to kurzy for the really high quality work here, evident in all the details - even the instructions and X-Mas card, and to the indomitable Mr g0ldf1ng3r for all his organisational and administrative skills, as well as for having the idea in the first place! It really shows how a forum like this can work together based on trust and volunteers for something like this to come off. Have a great holiday all!

Aha - a dark horse then. me, 10 years in music and kitchens and then 20 in IT security and networking - still struggle, but I think that has to do with keeping all the mouths fed and having too many hobbies/interests for my own good. I'd try the scaffolding, but while I'm not afraid of heights per se I hate standing near edges.....

See it now - for some reason assumed the link was to the shop selling it. Looks great, you must be chuffed - is the illumination adjustable or controlled by the dash dimmer? I want one now just to have, so I can then buy a car to put it into!

Ooooh - nice. Let us know what it looks like lit up in the dash and how it works out. Note to self: must change careers to whatever he's doing, would like to have the budget to keep my car running properly. let alone all the shiny goodies! 😉

Ah, they're a pain - I did see somewhere, but didn't save a link, to a how to on repairing/replacing that part - I guess the issue is that the whole thing comes as one unit only and the parts are not available individually. Could you get one off a broken motor unit or maybe there is another VAG mech that uses the same clip?

What's wrong with yours? If the motor is seized but everything else is ok there is a slight chance you could free them up. ARZ Tuning used to sell a US made retrofit kit, but not sure if they still do - it might be worth checking with them or searching some of the US sites for more info. Most people just buy a second hand one and take their chances - that's what I had to do for my driver's side one. I thought Classic Parts still had the passenger side mech in stock, but it wasn't cheap, over 200 plus postage.