fendervg

It's worth a try - but tooling up for a run of 500 is much less tempting and cost-effective than for 5000 for the supplier - that's assuming they have the moulds still. As far as I remember the Mk2 lights for the big bumpers were separate discrete units like the early Corrado ones, the late fog light unit has the lamp integrated into a fairly complicated housing. Many other manufacturers just used off the shelf fog units, hence these are cheap and easily available.

...and when I bought it, completely stock:

I think it looks just about right for a 20-25mm drop, Keyo. MJA - they were my thoughts on the earlier cars, mine definitely sat lower than the later ones on stock springs. Here's mine on 15" wheels with the B6/H&R green combo:

I remember reading somewhere that late VR6s had different springs fitted both because of the fuel tank and to make the car sit a little higher (if that was even possible!) than before as buyers were complaining that they were grounding on ramps, scuffing sill panels and damaging the front splitter - hence the 50mm spoiler on later cars rather thank the earlier 90mm. I know from when I changed to H&R/B6s that on my 93 car, the factory springs were different to those on later VRs, and it sat slightly lower all round - having said that I also had the 70 litre tank, as I believe all VRs had, so the above reasons don't really make much sense. These things are very hard to judge as the original factory suspension will be very old and saggy, and many cars have had their suspension modded to some degree at some stage - would be interesting to get hold of new or NOS VW OEM springs and shocks (not sure if that is even possible at this stage) and compare. If you check on ETKA, you will see two different spring part #s split by year/chassis number.

I think part of the problem is that the total number of Corrados produced was relatively low - so there is a small market/demand (even though there is plenty of demand among present owners) so it is difficult to justify the large tooling costs for a small run as the end price would be too high and the enthusiasts then start complaining about the cost without being aware of what's involved, even for Classic Parts/Heritage, never mind a private business. There was never really much available in terms of aftermarket panels and parts either compared to the likes of the Mk2/Mk1/Classic Beetle. Added to that a huge number of items come with the dreaded Corrado specific 535/536 prefix on the part number, especially body, trim and lights and are not interchangeable with other models. The big problem for me is that you can't get the panels and parts needed to repair your car if you've been in an accident or had a break in - and that leads to trouble with insurance and write-offs of cars that shouldn't be written off.

G60/16v should be wearing 195 as standard on 15" original wheels, I would have thought? Maybe best to have a chat with your tyre shop. I'd say there are plenty on her who might have experience - I'd stick with the original tyre spec on standard wheels unless I coudn't get the correct size - I currently have Michelin Pilot Sports stretched from 195 to 205 on the VR for that very reason, but would rather run the correct size, and will be switching back at the next change. Has your car been lowered or had any other suspension mods? The P6000 were a great tyre btw.

Not sure about this tbh - is the tension spring not in the part that is cracked, as that is what you tighten the bolt in to to release it? If you are stuck, I think I have an old one somewhere that came off my car about 5 years ago - it was still working fine, maybe a little bit noisy at the time - and you could either replace or swap over your pulley and bearing.

Looks like fun and sounds lovely - a private road of course 😉 Never drove a 16v Mk2, but had an 8v PB for many years and loved it to bits - great cars and closer to the GTI ideal than today's lumps of lard. The interior design is a bit spartan though compared to the later Corrado - I always felt I was going at least 10 years back in time when stepping into the Mk3 rather than the 3 it was in reality!

Not sure, as I've never seen one of the Volvos with the Teves 04 set up in the flesh - but would be interesting - surely at least some of it would come in handy.

The problem is that the RHD ABS and m/c are specific to the UK VR6, and only a very small number of other models also RHD, so no more are being manufactured after stocks ran out. They are only used in syncro Passats and Golfs as far as I know, and some Volvos, so not a great pool. Another option is to retrofit a later Teves 20 system where parts are readily available, or to delete it altogether - although I personally would only go down that route for a track car. The RHS clutch master cylinder for a VR6 is nearly as hard to get - the engine bay layout is different between RHD/LHD as the pedal box is on a different side.

Did they say they wouldn't refurbish or that they don't sell the seal kit any more? Would be bad news for the Corrado community if this service wasn't available any more. Best bet would be to refurbish and then fit a second hand one if you don't want to leave your car without one. Last time I checked earlier this year they were still refurbishing them. I think one of the issues with a seal kit is that unless a cylinder is in good shape, the bore needs to be widened a slight amount as well.

There's known issues with the spring plates needing to be changed and incorrect spring lengths in the kit, although as far as I know anyone one here who had the issues was able to get the springs replaced with the correct ones. I think that some manufacturers don't differentiate between the Corrado/Golf3 VR6 wide track "Plus Achsel" suspension layout and the the 16v/G60 and make only one kit, plus there was a change in spring height and top plate during the life time of the VR6. I run B6 shocks with the green H&R 30mm springs on standard 15" wheels, and to me it handles and looks just right for a daily.

Try pastparts.co.uk

They would fit, but they wouldn’t be type approved for safety regs in the UK - that’s why there are different lenses for different countries even if RHD. You’d want an eagle eyed MOT tester to spot it though.

Is it for sucking rainwater out of pot holes? [emoji41] nice paint job though, will be great to have everything back in place.

That’s the Bentley - either the official pdf or a scanned version.

Hi Chris - what is your price for late fog light lenses? And do you use VX glass or do you manufacture your own? mfg. As a comment to the above, you would probably get plenty of interest on the forum, possibly some group buys, but need transparency on pricing and quality - some of these items can be large investments. Interested to hear more.

Filling with petrol is always good when troubleshooting a non-start scenario 😉

Maybe they mean two people own it at the same time haha. The only interior shot is a dodgy long exposure - must have plastic bucket seats in there or something! Just weird that out of all the photos that were taken there are no proper ones of the engine bay or the inside - but I guess 16 quid for a doer upper is not too bad.

If they sell all the tickets they'll have 18k - not bad for a couple of hours work.

Nasty. Down with this sort of thing - at least there are plenty current and former members on here who are reasonable when it comes to pricing parts.

I've bought some small items off nk in the past - he wasn't always that overprices - he seems to have jacked up all the prices (adding Corrado tax and multiplying by at least two) in the last couple of years - but then he woudn't be the only one doing that. Anything I bought was genuine VW and new, and had no problems. It's not cheap, but I've seen much worse rip-offs. What was the last VAG dealer list price anyway?

A bargain at double the price! [emoji41] Still cheaper than a replacement screen and all the attendant hassle, unless you can get it done on insurance.

I've seen billet casings for the 044 that hook straight onto the swirl pot mounts in the bottom of the tank, if it's of any use - like anything that is billet they don't seem to be cheap though. Having taken a couple of in-tank pumps apart, if you can get a pump body that is the same dimensions (could be trial and error) you should be able to fit it into the existing swirl pot assembly, which means you retain the the original fuel sender float assembly.

Often a bit of copper grease on the back of the pads (not the side facing the disc) will sort this out - could also be a sign of a seizing piston in the calliper. Alternatively, some pads will just squeal like a pig - I had this with Ferrodo DS2500s, and while they were great at stopping, they produced a lot of noise and dust. For the last few years I've just been running the OE discs and pads from VW, and haven't had any issues whatsoever.