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Yep - looks like they have been reversed - mine have definitely not been touched since it left the factory 23 years ago!

[ATTACH]82446[/ATTACH] This is how mine looks. It's a 93 VR

I'll see if I can check mine

Sounds like you are doing the right thing then - it might be worth getting a garage to do it with a pressure brake bleeding system. Sometimes they just need to be bled lots of times to get it right.

How are you bleeding it? Eazy bleed, pressure bleeder or the old-fashioned way? And in what order? You need to cable tie the brake bias valve on the rear beam if the car is off the ground, and there are also bleed nipples on the ABS pump if you have one.

Not sure about this, but I would have thought you would need a matching master cylinder with 312s? I know that was what I did on my MkII Golf GTI 8v when changing the brakes to G60 callipers.

@delfinis - the non-VR6 pipes are different in ETKA - basically the same as MKII Golf GTI ones,but I haven't seen one in the flesh so can't comment on flaring the ends etc. I'd agree with all original - much more refined than the aftermarket ones. You also don't have to polish them as much ;) I'd go back to OEM if I could afford it and was able to find the parts. I'm at 86K miles, so my original system probably wasn't even that bad in the first place.

I looked at getting a new exhaust to get back to standard from a Milltek and at the time (about two years ago) both the resonator pipe, center box and back box were all available either from VAG or through Classic Parts, but at about €1500 for the lot. You also need to drop the rear beam (do your bushes at the same time) or cut the exhaust to fit, as the two suitcase sections come as one part. I didn't go for it in the end due to lack of funds, but now regret it and would in hindsight have not got rid of the original exhaust and put on a Milltek. It sounds nice, but leaks a bit and requires regular tightening, causes some extra vibration/drone in certain gears and does not have the front silencer/pipe in it. If I could get hold of one (hint, hint, maybe your mate can make two ;)) I'd definitely look at putting that pipe back in. Just my experience.

@delfinis38 - I believe the part# for the front silencer/resonator pipe section on the VR6/ABV is 535253209

@robrado974 - cheers, I just checked out the site: http://www.pamties.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=butyl They seem to have double sided butyl tape available as well - I wonder could this be cut to suit, as it's not as thick as the rope tape?

@thursdave - lol: - if you're giving them away I'll have a few as well please - need some to make my locking petrol cap work off the ignition key!

Hall sender next

Also an option - the outside of the housing is just the swirlpot, with the rubber mounting feet at the bottom that screw into the bottom of the fuel tank to hold it in place. The actual pump sits inside that. You'll need a Torx screwdriver to get it out. All the hose clips are also one use only, so will need to be snapped or cut off, so make sure you have some spare 8mm fuel hose clips (not normal jubilee type) to hand. Bosch, Pierburg and VDO currently also sell just the pump unit on its own if that's all you want to buy, or you can buy the pump and swirl pot combined. Just make sure you get a 4 bar one. I wouldn't trust that ebay item myself, and would rather go for one of the above suppliers. I have some correspondence from Pierburg customer service that I will check for part numbers later. Having looked at the link, it looks like it might be an ok option - but you can still get the OEM parts anyway. Unless you are running an uprated engine and injectors for performance reasons you don't need more fuel flow/pressure anyway - the VR Motronic system is a low pressure fuel system, it's the injectors and the ECU that do all the work - the pump just makes sure there is 4 bar being delivered to the fuel rail, and this is then regulated to 3.5 bar by the FPR.

Hi all - doing work on my driver's side door soon, so was wondering what people have been using recently to stick on their door membranes. I've seen references to double sided tape (that was the way the old VAG membranes were done) and then also to butyl tape, and have come across various types and sizes of butyl on ebay, but it would be nice to know of someone who had a particular brand or item that they have used successfully in the recent past. The bead on most of the tape available on ebay seems to large for a start. Cheers to all.

Bosch have an online catalog where you can search for all their parts by vehicle. Just google it.

Ok. Can't help there unfortunately but keep us posted on how you get on as I'm looking for that centre pipe myself as mine was binned when the miltek was fitted. Cheers.

They don't really wear much provided the lock mechanism is kept lubricated. The key just pushes against them until they all line up and this then releases the barrel and allows it to rotate. I'd say you'll be fine with secondhand ones, especially from say the passenger door or glove box or boot cylinder off a car with central locking.

Are you looking for the centre box or the resonator pipe that sits between the centre box and the cat?

All VAG lock barrels from the same era use identical pin sets, so a few old lock barrels from a breaker or a scrappy should see you sorted. Just clean them in an alcohol based solution and then lubricate with locksmith's grease before refitting. Or you can buy the set from the dealer, but you will never use them all!

Got mine from VW Classic Parts. Hope it's the right one as I haven't fitted it yet! Worst case scenario I reckon would be having to fit a new loom or plug to it.

It used to say that in all car manuals. If it's true I've personally destroyed several gearboxes over the years!

Check the gearbox mount first. I have the VAG gear linkage alignment tool, but you'd have to be in Ireland to borrow it. It's not too hard to adjust manually by feel.

Sounds like something may have been blocking it and then went. You should never really hear the VR pump unless you are at the boot with the lid off. You can check fuel pressure handily enough using a pressure gauge connected to the bleed nipple on the injector rail.

Are these still for sale?

Hmm. That's the Bosch one, 4 bar is the correct pressure, but I have a funny feeling from my research that your old fuel tank sender may not work with that unit. What you have there is the swirl pot with a pump unit inside it and the hoses that connect up to the tank lid. The sender sits on the side of the pump assembly. I guess the only way to be sure is to actually order one and try it out, but the problem then is that you won't be able to return it if it turns out to be the wrong one. Maybe someone else who has bought this one can confirm if the sender can be swapped over?