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Everything posted by fendervg
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I think it's a matter of opinion but the general consensus on here seems to be OEM bushes. The other ones seem to cause too much movement in the rear suspension as well as transmitting more vibrations.
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I just had mine done with OEM rubber. I would not really recommend poly for the rear axle. It's worth the hassle and expense of fitting the VW ones and they won't need to be done again for a long time. Best of luck with it.
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Maybe. There is a special grease that VW recommend. [emoji41] you could have a short somewhere. Start at the motor and work your way back up the loom to the fuse box and you should find it.
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Solution to all the bonnet cable woes... £0.40!
fendervg replied to culshaw's topic in Ebay and Misc
Got it yesterday. Great stuff and thanks. -
You'll need a press or to make something to get the OEM bushes in and out. There's a special VW tool for it. Poly bushes will go in no problem.
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Take the motor out and run it off a 12v battery to check it. You may have over-strained it or it might be weak. If it's struggling against a tough sunroof mechanism it will draw more current and can blow the fuses or burn out. The Mk3 mech is not really a perfect fit for the Corrado - Passat B3/B4 is better. Did you lubricate the mech before fitting it?
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@goldie - did you have any luck getting the mats? Cheers.
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Sounds like you are well on the road then! I have 288s on the front, MkIV rears and braided lines and use ATE Racing Blue fluid with OEM VW discs and pads. I've found that proper bleeding of everything (callipers, ABS unit, master cylinder) makes the most difference. The 288s have more bite and larger pad area but you still need to put your foot down a fair bit before you notice the improvement. I also tried Ferrodo pads, but they were too dusty and noisy for daily use for me. It seems like you should see a noticeable gain by upgrading to bigger discs and pads then - just don't expect a modern car brake feel. Some say that 312s are much better, but then your are into bigger wheels and more mods.
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You'll need a bigger spare as well if you currently have a space saver. Why don't you just refresh the current setup and give the system a pressure bleed before going down the upgrade route? You'd be surprised at the difference that will make. 288s are better, but not that much better. The rears are hardly noticeable as they don't do much work anyway - but an upgrade to MkIV callipers will solve some of the seized handbrake mechanism issues.
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Welcome aboard. If you use Tapatalk it's easy to upload pics. Not sure if you have to wait for moderator approval though on your first few. Maybe someone else can help.
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Good info there. All VR's are PLUS btw. They changed the height of the suspension on the later cars.
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Well, IMHO all types of brake lines need to be inspected regularly. The standard ones are rubber, and will age and expand under pressure and should really be replaced every 3-5 years. The braided ones add some strength by having metal braid around the rubber. So you will probably just have replaced old worn ones with new ones in any case, and will also have bled the system - so that will improve the feel on two counts. Note that the braided ones can still perish underneath the braid and are actually harder to inspect then. A lot of older cars will not have had these items replaced in a while so it's a good precaution to take.
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My opinion would be: track car, no ABS required, but if it's a daily keep it working. One day it might save a life, possibly yours.
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Yep. That's about par for a late 80s generation car. The foot brake efficiency is a little low and it might be worth changing the fluid and giving it a good pressure bleed. Should be done every couple of years anyways. I've had an Audi Coupe Quattro, MkII, Polo and the VR and there is no way you will get the standard brakes up to the level of modern cars. You just compensate for it when driving.
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Did ARZ-Tuning in Germany not have them new for a while? I might have a few knocking around - will keep an eye out.
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Uh-oh - not looking good. My cats were both in all night but they, like me, didn't have a vote and live in the wrong country! ;)
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6 years, bought her with 35K on the clock and there's approx 90K on there now. It hasn't let me down any more than more modern cars to be honest, and most of the work is preventative or replacing the older bits and pieces.
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Solution to all the bonnet cable woes... £0.40!
fendervg replied to culshaw's topic in Ebay and Misc
Sent pp there. Thanks and great work. -
I think Passat B3/B4 roofs are the best fit. Can be found easily on German ebay.
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Corrado - Magnum G60 Shooting Brake up for sale
fendervg replied to toledo's topic in General Car Chat
Would be nice if they had the 16v G60 in them. A real sleeper! -
6 years so far. No plans to get rid of it yet. Still love it when everything works as it should [emoji41]
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Not wanting to step on fendervg's toes but I too need a VR6 ABS unit.
fendervg replied to FasthunVR6's topic in Wanted
Are you sure about the Mk3 GTIs? Is it the 6 outlet unit with EDL? I thought the Mark 3s had the Teves 20 system instead of the Teves 04. The best way to troubleshoot is to get VCDS on to the car and pull the codes from the ABS ECU. Or replace, by trial and error, the four wheel sensors, brake position sensor, ECU, maybe loom and then the pump, I would think.
