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Hi all - here's a question. The "Basic Settings" ECU reset procedure is quite lengthy as it seem to involve driving the car at normal temperature to "teach" the ECU according to the wiki on here, before you do the reset. Do people do this every time the battery is disconnected? The reason I ask is that very little of the VAG literature mentions doing the procedure in the repair instructions, even for repair groups that involve the battery being disconnected for safety. Most just mention keeping a note of the radio codes! Would I be right in saying that under normal conditions the ECU will just re-adapt anyway after voltage has been interrupted, and that normal driving will be enough for it to calculate the correct values?

VRs will run hot anyway and were designed that way - oil temps up to about 110-115 are ok - anything much higher and you may have an issue with your cooling system if you are only running a standard engine. First suspect would be the oil cooler on the front of the block, as that's quite small for such a large engine.

The VR6 is managed by the ECU, which takes input signals from at least 6 or more different sensors - some spring to mind: - Blue temp sensor for coolant temp - Crankshaft position sensor - Camshaft position sensor (Hall Sender) - Signal from Mass Airflow Unit (behind airbox) - O2 sensor in catalytic converter - Temp sender in exhaust/catalytic converter - Throttle position sensor etc. I'm sure I've missed a few. Did you scan the car for faults?

I think the problem is that the handbrake cable mechanism on the MkII calipers (which were the original ones fitted to the C) are a flawed design (it's external to the body of the caliper from what I recall), which will inevitably seize - and that the MkIV calipers resolve this. They are also made out of a different alloy. So the later model will give you more piece of mind in the long run but it may be chaeaper to refurbish your existing ones.

Unless it's been touched before it won't be the idle screw. The VR should regulate its idle using the various sensor signals to the ECU. As above - check for air leaks.

I always use 10w40 semi-synth and have always used it on older VWs and Audis with no problem. Quantum is the dealer brand.You'll get lots of opinions on this. With a high miler you need to start looking at all your seals and gaskets as they are bound to be seeping. Fully synth can be too thin for an older engine where the tolerances aren't that tight.

Will they be able to get it running before it dissolves into a pile of rust? ;)

Who knows - they like to keep you watching the ads so you'll just have to see if it's on tonight!

It should click once when the ignition is turned on when it switches. Cheap to replace. Constant clicking could also be a sign of a fault in the wiring to the relay, but replace it first I'd say.

Looking great. Will be sending my injectors over next week hopefully.

Had a drink to rising values myself last night! Let's see what Wheeler Dealers brings.

Several threads here on this recently if you do a search - available new from VW Classic Parts or VW Heritage in the UK. If you have a decent dealer they might even be willing to order from Classic Parts for you. The badges are separate items - you can still get the chrome VW roundel, but the VR6 ones are no longer available. Not sure about G60 or 16V versions as I haven't had to look for them.

Just go with a standard un-drilled air box and OEM filter if you can get hold of one - you won't regret it - there is a long thread on here discussing the pros and cons of drilling, oiled filters, cone filters etc. and there is nothing wrong with the factory set-up as it is unless you want more induction noise or are running serious engine mods. Any BHP gains are minimal or non-existent - the basic rule seems to be more BHP = more money, and lots of it. Just my opinion - your mileage will vary.

Ok. I remember that from the other thread. Did you swap over the whole fuel delivery unit or just the pump, and did you have to change over the sender?

I'll do my fuel pump saga write up this weekend hopefully and post it in the Supplier's Forum. I'm going to buy one of those valves just to see - will be interesting to observe what happens to the residual pressure with one fitted nd how quickly the engine starts hot or cold. @dox - sounds like your old pump was really knackered. Was the one you put it in an identical model from a same era car? Would be interesting to know if it was a Pierburg unit or had a VDO pump inside. Sadly they only open with Torx screwdrivers and I didn't have any around when I had mine out.

At least that's that part of the mystery solved! My car is a 93 and has no valve fitted. Do you have any photos of it in place and is there a part# on it? Maybe they were only ever fitted if a car came back to the dealer with starting problems.

I suppose for given the price of a fuel filter there would probably not be a valve in it. I do know though that the many of the VAG oil filters have a non-return valve in them, and that some of the lesser quality replacements don't. That leaves the fuel pump valve then as the suspect, provided all else is ok.

Ok - that makes sense - maybe there was trouble with fuel seeping back down through the feed line and into the pump. But it would have to get through the one-way fuel filter (there are directional arrows on it when fitting) and the valve in the pump on it's way back! The VR is not a high pressure system like the mechanical injection on the K-Jet 16v cars, so should not need a high residual pressure. So I read it that the closer the non-return valve is to the fuel rail along the feed line, the better the result. Or am I wrong?

Still intrigued by this solution. The FPR regulates the pressure in the rail, but the non-return valve described here will stop fuel returning back to the tank down the return hose from the rail, thus keeping more pressure in the system. This should help with cold starts, as the pressure will usually drop over time. However, I would have thought that the pump priming will give enough pressure for a successful start, although maybe a bit longer crank time than you would get with a hot engine and higher pressure. The only way I could see it helping maintain pressure to a hot engine is if there is already another problem such as leaking injectors or hoses present. This could manifest itself only when warm due to heat expansion. Provided the system is functioning as designed there should always be enough residual fuel pressure there. Does anyone have the original German thread reference that mentions the VW fix? I'd like to do some more investigation on this. I've also read of a breather valve on the pump assembly or near the filler cap, but have yet to track it down. EDIT: just looked at an old fuel rail I have here, and the FPR is a variable flow non-return valve that will regulate the amount of petrol going back down the return feed from the rail, so there should be no need for another one. Hmm. However, if your injector seals were shot...

All five stud wheel cars are PLUS, four stud ones are not.

:lol - good luck with the sale - it's a fair price and I hope it finds a good home.

Hmmm - if I had the cash I would snap this up in a second. Looks to be all there - you don't need the lower inlet pipe by the way, as far as I know it's a straight fit. don't suppose you do an instalment plan? ;)

I thought a second car might come in handy for those journeys back from the breakers. Wouldn't fancy carrying a front bumper on a bike [emoji41]

That's for sure Jim - that big hot 6 cylinder keeps everything nice and toasty - no real need for heated leather!

I use mine as a daily - but tend to try to avoid going into the thick of city centre traffic. On the motorway I average 30-35 mpg 75mph, around town low twenties. So if your particular commute is mainly open motorway (doesn't happen often) you'll be all right on the petrol costs. On a twenty plus year old car you will inevitably have to spend some more money on maintenance and parts than on a newer beast, but that comes with the territory. The biggest pain is being off the road while you wait for parts to arrive from some obscure location - make sure you have access to a second car for those times.