fendervg

More bad marketing by VW. They sold the Corrado as the higher end option while the MkII Scirocco was still on sale. It was really kind of a side project for the designers. The special German Corrado book has lots of pics and history.

Wasn't sure in which sub-forum to post this so went for here. Is anyone else having trouble getting VCDS 15.7 from Ross-Tech to talk to their ABS ECU? I have tried two different ECUs, both good, getting lots of comms errors but can talk to the engine ECU without any problems. I suspect the ABS loom maybe. Running on a 2.60 Ghz Intel Core i5-3320M Lenovo X230 running a Windows 7 64-bit OS, using a USB to serial adapter from Star-Tech (a good, one I use it for work all the time). My old crappy Dell laptop with in-built serial port worked fine, with Windows XP, but has died long since. I asked Ross-Tech support, but haven't had any joy there yet - thought I'd ask here to see what other people were using. Apparently the TEVES02 ECU is notoriously picky about its comms as it's such an old and relatively primitive unit. Thanks.

Did it start ok after you replaced the crank position sensor?

I'm just stirring things here ;) - but you could just put a set of 15 or 16s with the correct fitment on and be done with it. There's nothing wrong with a nice set of Speedlines running 195/50/15 and that is what the car was designed for. Any changes, and the whole suspension geometry will have to be tuned to match to get it right, and possibly arch work as well. That is going to be expensive. I've been through this on three different cars (Golf MkII, Audi Quattro and now the VR6) and I've always ended up going back to stock or nearly stock because I use it as a daily on roads with many different surfaces. It really depends on what you want to use the car for. /rant over

Dodgy ISV or faulty wiring to the ISV? Did you essentially bypass the ISV during your test? Get a multimeter and pull the plug off the ISV and check for current and good signal there to rule out the loom, then replace the ISV with a known working one maybe.

Is it cranking? It might be an earth or wire to the starter has been disturbed during the work.

I'd differ on the wheel size - any cars I've driven that had 17s or larger on them had compromised handling for everyday road use - you really need to set up everything else correctly to get it to behave properly and it's not worth the hassle or expense. Just my opinion.

As above. Springs and shocks must be matched. I also wouldn't run larger than 16 in wheels on a Corrado.

Check vacuum and do a scan with VCDS for faults. Could be a dodgy sensor.

Toffee wheels get my vote too. They are a great piece of kit.

That is the infamous Karmann interior premium! Way over-priced for a VR6 with dodgy bodywork.

Those two wires allow you to connect an OBDII scanner cable using a 2x2 adapter that is available from Ross-Tech. If you were in Ireland I;d be happy to do it for you!

Good advice from Kev there - you really need to get VCDS or VAG.COM hooked up to the car, scan for fault codes and take some readings.

Not always in my experience - you should however see a change in engine note and possibly cut out when you disconnect the MAF sensor wiring.

Never mind - just googled it and nothing to do with suspension - looks interesting though.

Well, I'll let you know how I get on - the non-return valve appears to have been an official VAG fix on some cars, as verified by some posts on here and one i saw on a German forum, so it might do the trick. My bet is still on the injector seals though.

Another update after two weeks of driving the car to and from work daily. The car now drives relatively well, not cut-outs at idle or when going off-throttle, and pulls better than before. I would put this down to the new distributor with a working hall sender. However, I still have low residual pressure - this manifests itself on cold starting in the morning or when going home, where it splutters on the first turn of the key and will always catch on a second try. This is the pressure building up. I now suspect either the valve in the pump (possibly leaking back into the tank through the feed line) or worn injector seals. I've ordered a non-return valve that I am going to fit on the fuel feed from the pump (hopefully this will keep more pressure at the rail when left standing over long periods) and I have sent off a set of injectors to be tested and refurbished by Mr. Injector and will fit these when they come back. Fingers crossed - as always (or so it seems with this car), there was more than one problem causing the issue!

I usually always buy parts direct from Germany when I can - works out cheaper, postage aside sometimes, and they usually know what they're talking about. That's where I recently got my VR6 distributor for a fraction of the price it was in the UK, Ireland and fleabay.

Yeah - I always regret selling my slightly untidy but mechanically sound MkII GTI 8v Golf for a song a few years back - would be worth a tidy sum now.

The escorts are rally cars though aren't they? And you can't beat those old Citroens as long as they don't have rust or electrical gremlins...

Let's hope it stirs up some publicity and general interest in the Corrado then.

Just someone buy the bloody thing so we can all relax and sit down and watch the show! ;)

Blue sender is the coolant temperature to ECU signal. Not sure what is meant by four - there are three in the thermostat housing, one for the dash temp gauge and fans, the blue ECU one and a separate radiator fan controller one. Other temp sensors are on the inlet manifold, catalytic converter and on the radiator itself.

@jim - what make are they and where did you get them?

yeah - that was what I thought. I've only ever done it a couple of times. The only reason I see where it might be needed is if you don't drive the car after reconnecting the battery and just let it warm up slowly at idle for 20 mins or so - then the ECU would never see full throttle etc.