fendervg

Well, I'll let you know how I get on - the non-return valve appears to have been an official VAG fix on some cars, as verified by some posts on here and one i saw on a German forum, so it might do the trick. My bet is still on the injector seals though.

Another update after two weeks of driving the car to and from work daily. The car now drives relatively well, not cut-outs at idle or when going off-throttle, and pulls better than before. I would put this down to the new distributor with a working hall sender. However, I still have low residual pressure - this manifests itself on cold starting in the morning or when going home, where it splutters on the first turn of the key and will always catch on a second try. This is the pressure building up. I now suspect either the valve in the pump (possibly leaking back into the tank through the feed line) or worn injector seals. I've ordered a non-return valve that I am going to fit on the fuel feed from the pump (hopefully this will keep more pressure at the rail when left standing over long periods) and I have sent off a set of injectors to be tested and refurbished by Mr. Injector and will fit these when they come back. Fingers crossed - as always (or so it seems with this car), there was more than one problem causing the issue!

I usually always buy parts direct from Germany when I can - works out cheaper, postage aside sometimes, and they usually know what they're talking about. That's where I recently got my VR6 distributor for a fraction of the price it was in the UK, Ireland and fleabay.

Yeah - I always regret selling my slightly untidy but mechanically sound MkII GTI 8v Golf for a song a few years back - would be worth a tidy sum now.

The escorts are rally cars though aren't they? And you can't beat those old Citroens as long as they don't have rust or electrical gremlins...

Let's hope it stirs up some publicity and general interest in the Corrado then.

Just someone buy the bloody thing so we can all relax and sit down and watch the show! ;)

Blue sender is the coolant temperature to ECU signal. Not sure what is meant by four - there are three in the thermostat housing, one for the dash temp gauge and fans, the blue ECU one and a separate radiator fan controller one. Other temp sensors are on the inlet manifold, catalytic converter and on the radiator itself.

@jim - what make are they and where did you get them?

yeah - that was what I thought. I've only ever done it a couple of times. The only reason I see where it might be needed is if you don't drive the car after reconnecting the battery and just let it warm up slowly at idle for 20 mins or so - then the ECU would never see full throttle etc.

Hi all - here's a question. The "Basic Settings" ECU reset procedure is quite lengthy as it seem to involve driving the car at normal temperature to "teach" the ECU according to the wiki on here, before you do the reset. Do people do this every time the battery is disconnected? The reason I ask is that very little of the VAG literature mentions doing the procedure in the repair instructions, even for repair groups that involve the battery being disconnected for safety. Most just mention keeping a note of the radio codes! Would I be right in saying that under normal conditions the ECU will just re-adapt anyway after voltage has been interrupted, and that normal driving will be enough for it to calculate the correct values?

VRs will run hot anyway and were designed that way - oil temps up to about 110-115 are ok - anything much higher and you may have an issue with your cooling system if you are only running a standard engine. First suspect would be the oil cooler on the front of the block, as that's quite small for such a large engine.

The VR6 is managed by the ECU, which takes input signals from at least 6 or more different sensors - some spring to mind: - Blue temp sensor for coolant temp - Crankshaft position sensor - Camshaft position sensor (Hall Sender) - Signal from Mass Airflow Unit (behind airbox) - O2 sensor in catalytic converter - Temp sender in exhaust/catalytic converter - Throttle position sensor etc. I'm sure I've missed a few. Did you scan the car for faults?

I think the problem is that the handbrake cable mechanism on the MkII calipers (which were the original ones fitted to the C) are a flawed design (it's external to the body of the caliper from what I recall), which will inevitably seize - and that the MkIV calipers resolve this. They are also made out of a different alloy. So the later model will give you more piece of mind in the long run but it may be chaeaper to refurbish your existing ones.

Unless it's been touched before it won't be the idle screw. The VR should regulate its idle using the various sensor signals to the ECU. As above - check for air leaks.

I always use 10w40 semi-synth and have always used it on older VWs and Audis with no problem. Quantum is the dealer brand.You'll get lots of opinions on this. With a high miler you need to start looking at all your seals and gaskets as they are bound to be seeping. Fully synth can be too thin for an older engine where the tolerances aren't that tight.

Will they be able to get it running before it dissolves into a pile of rust? ;)

Who knows - they like to keep you watching the ads so you'll just have to see if it's on tonight!

It should click once when the ignition is turned on when it switches. Cheap to replace. Constant clicking could also be a sign of a fault in the wiring to the relay, but replace it first I'd say.

Looking great. Will be sending my injectors over next week hopefully.

Had a drink to rising values myself last night! Let's see what Wheeler Dealers brings.

Several threads here on this recently if you do a search - available new from VW Classic Parts or VW Heritage in the UK. If you have a decent dealer they might even be willing to order from Classic Parts for you. The badges are separate items - you can still get the chrome VW roundel, but the VR6 ones are no longer available. Not sure about G60 or 16V versions as I haven't had to look for them.

Just go with a standard un-drilled air box and OEM filter if you can get hold of one - you won't regret it - there is a long thread on here discussing the pros and cons of drilling, oiled filters, cone filters etc. and there is nothing wrong with the factory set-up as it is unless you want more induction noise or are running serious engine mods. Any BHP gains are minimal or non-existent - the basic rule seems to be more BHP = more money, and lots of it. Just my opinion - your mileage will vary.

Ok. I remember that from the other thread. Did you swap over the whole fuel delivery unit or just the pump, and did you have to change over the sender?

I'll do my fuel pump saga write up this weekend hopefully and post it in the Supplier's Forum. I'm going to buy one of those valves just to see - will be interesting to observe what happens to the residual pressure with one fitted nd how quickly the engine starts hot or cold. @dox - sounds like your old pump was really knackered. Was the one you put it in an identical model from a same era car? Would be interesting to know if it was a Pierburg unit or had a VDO pump inside. Sadly they only open with Torx screwdrivers and I didn't have any around when I had mine out.