fendervg

There is a test value screen where you can see all the readings and graph them over time. Think it's called measuring blocks. I'm away at the moment but happy to take some readings off my car when I'm back to compare with yours.

Great service. I'd recommend him. My refurbed injectors even came with a before and after test report when I got them back.

Did you replace all the coolant sensors and are the plugs on the correct ones? Do the wheel sensor faults stay after clearing them and driving the car? Could be the wiring to the sensors. Your idle issue has to be wiring or one of the engine sensors that input to the ECU.

That's it. I kept mine on the basis that it had to be there for a reason.

I was able to get these new from VW about a year ago. May still be available or someone on here should be able to sort you out with a second hand set. They all tend to crack over time though, especially if the door card has been on and off a few times.

Very easy to change. You'll just lose a little coolant and will have to top up afterwards. One thing I found was that the rubber mount that the pump sits in didn't fit the newer replacement pump exactly, but it was easy enough to make it fit.

Yeah. I had to replace mine a few years ago. To be honest I think you can get away without one with no problems. Typical German over-engineering!

Or power steering fluid? You'll need to take a good look underneath with the car on stands or something. Or if you have a friendly mechanic, ask them to put it on lifts and you'll find the problem fairly quickly I'd say. Don't drive for long with a split CV boot if that's it - I did it for a while on an old Audi and it gave way on the motorway eventually - not fun!

That's your radiator temp sender for the fan by the look of things (hard to see in context). For the plug, you can get them from VW but the part numbers can be hard to track down. You might be better off putting a call on here to see if anyone is breaking a car like yours and has the loom.

You may just have masked the problem by fitting a slightly newer and stronger motor - if the mechanism is not lubricated regularly, the motor will start struggling with it as it starts to seize and something will eventually go snap. Conversely, if the mechanism is hard to move, you'll burn the motor out. It will usually always work on the allen key as you are turning it by hand and won't really notice the amount of force required to move it.

I don't like the way the C has been relegated to back of the pile on the cover - although it will be interesting to see if it makes a run up the inside straight over the next few months...

There's lots of info on here. The grease is still available from VW - do a search on here and you will find the part#. The most common thing that happens is that the passenger side cable guide snaps off. You need to replace the cable then - the guide is attached to it. I had another thread on here (not sure who started it) with the part #s for the repair kit and guides as well. You might be pleasantly surprised and find that it's still available somewhere on the web with a judicious use of Google. The motors rarely go faulty but replacements are easily found off a breaker if you need one, and they were used on plenty of other VAG cars as well. The Bentley repair manual has a good sunroof section in it and I may also have a few PDFs I can send on if you PM me.

Haven't looked at this in a while, but will play around with the settings some and see. Will look at the generic leads too.

Don't know about my seals on the master cylinder - it's still original, but there's no leaks to be seen. It's been bled countless number of times with a pressure bleeder (Sealey pumped reservoir type) and I don't believe there's any air in it. But great to hear that you have got good results from the upgrade and are happy with your braking performance now.

Good idea - I've uses a similar trick for the gearbox filler plug before. Your way is probably much better than getting a full size ratchet in between the inlet manifold and the front slam panel. Hopefully the non-return valve fix will help others - although I don't want to raise false hopes - but it can't actually do any harm anyway.

I did exactly what was done above, using a long length of 8mm fuel injection hose that curls around the opening and tucks away inside nicely. Problem appears to be sorted now.

@dox - I tested the voltage during the initial troubleshooting - no problems there. When running it also held pressure at a constant 3.5 bar at the injector rail, even under load. so that was fine as well. The problem was that it was losing residual pressure overnight, leading to cold start issues. My hot start issues were due to a dodgy crank position sensor and broken hall sender that was losing signal when the engine compartment heated up. Ebay link to non-return valve (8mm) http://www.ebay.ie/itm/271061850109?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&clk_rvr_id=899628767453&rmvSB=true Other thread on here about the VW fix - http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?82988-VR6-hot-start-problem-seem-to-have-been-resolved-just-thought-I-d-post-experience

UPDATE - several days later and I haven't had a single problem starting in the morning since fitting the non-return valve. Always starts on first turn of the key now after less than a second of cranking. My only guess here is that there was indeed fuel leaking back into the tank via the feed hose and through the valve in the pump. It may be that as the pumps get older this problem manifests itself due to wear and tear which is why VW came up with the valve as a bodge fix rather than replacing the whole pump unit every time they came across this issue. I'll start looking into obtaining a replacement fuel pump anyway (another saga no doubt) as the one I have will let go eventually, although it maintains constant pressure and is not noisy at the moment, and will then take the old one apart to see what the story is.

I guess Porsche may regret their boardroom deal to buy VAG then. Some hefty fines on the way. It was a bit nifty as a hack though - someone told me that the ECU would basically know that it was in emissions test mode and automatically altered the values to suit!

You lose another 5BHP if you don't have the earth strap on the distributor cap too!

In a standard OEM light unit? I would have thought they would need to be LED specific. Are they even legal?

I stand corrected then - lol: - sorry I don't follow many of the build threads as I don't get the time. I would have personally done the block at the same time as the head having saved up. N/A is an expensive way to get extra performance out of a standard VR. Even VW only managed a few extra HP and some torque with the VSR variable intake. Best of luck with it.

As above.

Turbo or super it instead. Much better bang for buck than na engine work on a VR.

The fans run off a couple of temp sensors and the fan control module. Did you replace or test the sender in the radiator?