fendervg

I did exactly what was done above, using a long length of 8mm fuel injection hose that curls around the opening and tucks away inside nicely. Problem appears to be sorted now.

@dox - I tested the voltage during the initial troubleshooting - no problems there. When running it also held pressure at a constant 3.5 bar at the injector rail, even under load. so that was fine as well. The problem was that it was losing residual pressure overnight, leading to cold start issues. My hot start issues were due to a dodgy crank position sensor and broken hall sender that was losing signal when the engine compartment heated up. Ebay link to non-return valve (8mm) http://www.ebay.ie/itm/271061850109?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&clk_rvr_id=899628767453&rmvSB=true Other thread on here about the VW fix - http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?82988-VR6-hot-start-problem-seem-to-have-been-resolved-just-thought-I-d-post-experience

UPDATE - several days later and I haven't had a single problem starting in the morning since fitting the non-return valve. Always starts on first turn of the key now after less than a second of cranking. My only guess here is that there was indeed fuel leaking back into the tank via the feed hose and through the valve in the pump. It may be that as the pumps get older this problem manifests itself due to wear and tear which is why VW came up with the valve as a bodge fix rather than replacing the whole pump unit every time they came across this issue. I'll start looking into obtaining a replacement fuel pump anyway (another saga no doubt) as the one I have will let go eventually, although it maintains constant pressure and is not noisy at the moment, and will then take the old one apart to see what the story is.

I guess Porsche may regret their boardroom deal to buy VAG then. Some hefty fines on the way. It was a bit nifty as a hack though - someone told me that the ECU would basically know that it was in emissions test mode and automatically altered the values to suit!

You lose another 5BHP if you don't have the earth strap on the distributor cap too!

In a standard OEM light unit? I would have thought they would need to be LED specific. Are they even legal?

I stand corrected then - lol: - sorry I don't follow many of the build threads as I don't get the time. I would have personally done the block at the same time as the head having saved up. N/A is an expensive way to get extra performance out of a standard VR. Even VW only managed a few extra HP and some torque with the VSR variable intake. Best of luck with it.

As above.

Turbo or super it instead. Much better bang for buck than na engine work on a VR.

The fans run off a couple of temp sensors and the fan control module. Did you replace or test the sender in the radiator?

Interestingly the report states that two of the old injectors were leaking before the refurbishment. I'd say any old injector that hasn't been cleaned could potentially be leaking slightly.

Haven't done the injectors yet. Got them back, but I need a good half to full day's run at it to take the intake off and fit them. The fuel rail connections are fine as I replaced both those hoses with new VAG items and clips about a year and a half ago. The refurbed injectors have new seals fitted, and were tested as not leaking. I have a full report on them from Mr Injector - only thing is that Jim on here found issue with his injector clips, so I will need to check out the condition of mine or maybe get some replacements in advance to be on the safe side. The NRV fix above will just rule out fuel seeping back down the feed pipe through the pump valve and into the tank. If the problems persist then it's likely to be the injectors.

This is my new non-return valve on the fuel feed from the pump solution fitted. We'll see how it goes after a few overnight cold starts. [ATTACH]82366[/ATTACH]

Dox is right here - because of the amount of labour involved in the job, you should plan to do everything you can afford at the same time. A clutch would be a definite as by 100-120K mileage it will be showing it's age as well. It also comes down to whether you do the labour yourself or are paying someone reliable to do it. For example, I have no garage, so while I am happy to work on most of the engine, electrics, brakes and suspension on jack stands, I wouldn't touch a clutch or the chains myself at the moment. I've done head gaskets on other cars before, and it's not such a big deal provided you are careful and have plenty of time, but you need space and will have to do without your car for longer than it would take a mechanic if you don't have all the facilities.

What is the cree type pray tell?

Yeah, takes me back to my early days in IT when a couple of guys I worked with who had been around since the early days of the Internet/ARPAnet used to say it all the time!

Ha ha. RTFM. :)

What's the deal with the injector clips? Do they need to be replaced? Was it easy to get the old injectors out without losing bits of the seals, and then putting the new ones back in? sorry about all the questions - just looking to do this myself soon as I now have my refurbed injectors back from Mr Injector. Great service by the way.

If it's all original locks it will be the same key for everything. It's in the manual.

Great news - and an easy solution. Sometimes your car is being nice to you and it's something simple.

Looks much better than mine! PM sent.

You need to trace the path of the spark then - if the starter turns, then there should be current going to the ignition system. This is usually battery/alternator>ignition amplifier>ignition amplifier>distributor>spark plug wires>spark plug. Or something like that. Do a test with a spark plug to the block as described above first on each plug - this will save you having to work the other way and will rule in or rule out the whole system. If you don't have a spark at the plug, work your way back up the line. You may have a coil pack instead of a distributor, depending on engine version. A faulty crank position sensor will also cause a no start scenario, even with fuel and spark present. But check for spark at the plugs first, then at the distributor etc. someone else will no doubt correct me on this!

Too much to be worth counting!

What relay number is it? Relays are generally cheap to replace, so could be worth a shot. If you want to test it you'll need the wiring diagrams to find out what's what. I have diagrams for the 1993 VR I can send you if you want to PM me your email address - some of them are in German though! And they are not fun to read and trace, so it might be easier just to replace the relay as a first port of call. Maybe someone on here can even lend you a known working one for a test. Did you check that you are getting current through the loom to the seats? It's more likely to be a break in the wiring somewhere.

Braided lines will help - I have them on mine - but the main thing they do is stop the dreaded MOT/NCT fail on "bulging brake lines". I've got 288s with VAG calipers, discs and pads, braided hoses and ATE Super Blue Racing fluid, and have pressure bled the system countless number of times, and still not entirely satisfied with the feel. They are much better than standard, but there is relatively long pedal travel until the pads bite and you need to stomp on them to brake in a hurry. I think it's about as good now as it will get with those components, and have decided to live with it. I want to keep my Speedlines, so don't have the option of going to larger calipers such as 312s as they won't fit. Some on here have converted to the ABS system off a Mk3 Golf, to solve both ABS and brake feel issues, but it's a big job and I can't comment on it. Try driving a Mk1 GTI or Mk1/2 Sirocco if you really want poor braking! They used a lever to the master cylinder on the other side of the engine bay for the right hand drive conversion.