Andy T

2 yrs 2 months of corrado'ing, 9 years of modifying vw's (since the day I turned 17!)

Sorted now! Yep, bleeding again using the brake pedal sorted it, and I didn't even have the bias valve pressed in. Quite a lot of dark mucky fluid came out, which was all pretty clean looking when bleeding the other caliper first time round?

yeah I had the compensator tie wrapped so that it would be fully open. would bleeding by the two man method be more effective at pushing fluid through?

cheers for that. the clutch is fine so reservoir must be ok. I will bleed the master cyl just to be sure. the funny thing is, I had to replace the rubber hose on the near side trailing arm because the Goodridge hose had been cross threaded into the old caliper (some previous twit) so now I have a standard new GSF hose on that side. the caliper does appear to work on that side, the pads gripped the disc when pumping the pedal after bleeding.

Just fitted new rear calipers, they both came plugged with a grub screw so assume they were already filled with fluid, I bled them after fitting and i've got a spongy pedal. the nearside one didn't seem to want to bleed aswell as the other side, it passed some fluid/air through but then stopped doing anything (using a pressure bleeding kit) the offside caliper continously was passing clean fluid through with no air. Any clues? should I off bled them 'off' the car? if so, which position should the bled screw be in, top or bottom? The level in the master cylinder did drop to the 'min' mark at one point ( the fluid pickup tube fell off inside the bleeding kit container) could that of caused any problems? cheers.

G60 has had the rear end up on axe stands for three days! replacing rear wheel bearings, discs, pads & calipers (with some help from a gas torch & angle grinder) was chuffed to find that the abs rings came off the old discs, and after some wire brushing and rust proof paint, look like new-uns ready to go on the new discs. Have smoothed & painted the new calipers & carriers in silver, before I fit them to the car tomorrow (part of the reason why this job is taking so long!)

I can never get second gear when changing up at highish revs (i.e flooring it from the lights) yet the gearchange is good for normal driving. 2nd just feels like a dead stop then have to reclutch when the revs have dropped to get it in. Sick of been beaten at the lights! I Changed all the engine & gearbox mounts but it made no difference. Would this be a problem with the box or could it still be something wrong in the linkages? It doesnt crunch into second when cold like my old GTI did......

only just sorted this , a new blue temp sender seems to of sorted the problem! all the lumpiness has gone on cold & warm starts, it runs fine when warmed up and the tailpipe is still nice and clean after a weeks driving! :D

Top tip - Take out the headlight! why, are your headlights fitted in the middle of your bumper? :lol:

was this a hard job? i've got one to do, but i dont wanna start taking bits apart that i cant get back together again! Also the oil filter on a G60 seems really difficult to get to! any tips? - sorry OT! - Easy mate, got the new water flange from EuroCarparts (it has an extra outlet but comes with a blanking plug & clip. Also get blue & black temp senders with seals, its not worth putting the old ones back in. Drain coolant system from rad bottom hose. Remove hose clips with water pump pliers/molegrips, remove hoses (note, alot of water will come out of head even though you drained the rad) undo two bolts, remove water flange clean up mounting face on head with sandpaper make sure new flange has rubber seal in place (I had to trim a little plastic off that might of interfered with the seal) fit senders with seals, a little water helps when pushing them in. fit retaining clips. bolt on flange and refit hoses. Top up coolant and run engine with expansion cap off until over 80°c to remove airlocks. thats it! my car seems to run better on cold & warm starts with the new blue temp sender 8) as for the oil filter, does it have a hexagon boss on the end of it? if not, it;'s probably a 8v oil filter, its dead important that you use the right filter on the g60. I can't remember how I get the filter off now, probably use water pump pliers on the hexagon boss, or you could always tap a screwdriver in the side of it (messy)

I was thinking about a stand-alone oil system a while ago, ok it should reduce charge air temperatures a little... but... surely the G-lader unit was designed to work at normal engine oil temperatures of 90deg+ (I'm thinking clearances/expansion/bearing & seal specs etc.) would it be like thrashing you engine before it warms up properly, causing premature wear? I know these kits run with a different type of oil, and that you would get some heat coming through the engine block etc, but how long would that take and what temp's would it achieve?

hey did those seats come out of a green vr6? they used to be in my red g60!

Fitted a Vibratech front engine mount and replaced a cracked water flange, also fitted the audioscape door pods that I bought months ago!

Yeah, don't see any red ones round here either! Are you going to VW northwest tomorrow? Just cos the yanks use them doesn't mean they know any better than us..... engine rebuild's are probably cheaper over there anyway! :wink:

I came on to ask the same thing, from what i've read from other posts its not safe, they can cause overboost & pinking problems Sounds as though whoever came up with the kit doesn't understand how the system works...

Cheers, luckily I already had a set of spare tubes from an intercooler i bought of ebay for £15 ages ago! money well spent I think! Chris mine sounded like that, the plastic was going porous and rubbery on the other side of the split. Fortunately the spare tube I had was in perfect condition, great to have some torque again!

Noticed a sudden drop of power from the g60 yesterday, accompanied by a 'pssssstt' type of noise on full throttle. Took me ages to find it, but the plastic boost tube that runs down to the intercooler has a 1" split, just where the tube passes underneath the battery tray! very difficult to see. Thought it was worth mentioning as most ppl would be looking for leaks at joints or the rubber hoses , not a plastic part! Is that bit known as a weak spot? wondering if tired engine mounts have put killed it!

I fancy putting mk5 polo handles on mine. No idea how big a job it would be though!

hmm, some corrado's have fuses mounted above the relays on the fusebox, probably will be well hidden by all the wiring.

Also check for loose power cables at the battery +ive terminal - this gave me tons of abs fault codes and caused the abs light to come on intermittently... has worked fine ever since sorting that connection!

Replacing master cylinder is fairly easy... Working inside car at clutch pedal, prise off clip that connects master cylinder to clutch pedal, and undo the two bolts that hold the unit to the bulkhead. Remove some fluid from the brake reservoir until it is just below the braided pipe that goes to the clutch master cylinder cyl(but not low enough to get air into the brake pipes!) Pull of braided pipe that connects master cylinder to the brake fluid reservoir, at the reservoir end. you'll need a bowl & rags to catch any fluid that may come out. Undo pipe union on the cylinder (possibly 11mm spanner) to remove pipe that runs to the slave Remove master cylinder from engine compartment (bit of a squeeze past the brake servo!) Fit new cylinder, connect pipes & pedal and secure bolts. Top up brake fluid reservoir and bleed the clutch system with new dot 4 fluid in order of Master first then slave cyl. Easiest way is to use a tyre pressure bleeding kit (works fine for me), or the two man bleeding method which will be explained on here somewhere. I reckon its an hour / hour & half job. Warning the clutch will feel bizarre for first few hours of driving... will feel stiff then sometimes soft but it will settled down eventually!

The fluid on top of the gearbox could just be from the old slave cylinder or when they bled the new one - worth a closer look. I'd of thought that if a VAG garage fitted the slave cylinder the system would of been bled throught with new fluid..??

To me it sounds like your clutch problem is pure coincidence. I had exactly the same problem with my clutch last year, even with a new slave cylinder I would loose the clutch pedal after a longish drive, but it never occured after 20-30 minute drives. Your problem is the Clutch Master Cylinder (on the bulkhead, connects to the clutch pedal). The seals will be on their last legs, and the heat build up from a long drive causes air to get past the seals into the master cylinder. The problem will get worse and worse until the clutch will not disengage at all! I did find that if I Bled the clutch system afterwards, it would work again for ages (at least until I next went on a long drive!) So you need a new Master cylinder, GSF & ECP don't sell them any more for Corrado or Passat, (unless things have changed) It was about £90 from VAG but at least cured my clutch completely. I think even if the garage did disturb the brake hydraulics, its unlikely to affect the clutch as the systems are seperate apart from sharing the fluid resevoir. You would of had no brakes though!

Yeah the outer race of the bearing is pressed into the brake disc, well worth changing at the same time because you don't want to have to strip it all down again six months later when the bearings get noisy

Bit the bullet in the end and bought a new caliper, ECP had no stock in the country though and my local GSF didnt even list it anymore. Got one in the end from Brakes International, a Budweg remanufactured one for about £48 all in.