Andy T

Your G60 mounts will be better than mk2 diesel mounts. a New g60 gearbox mount is more than adequate, uprated front mount of your choice, might even be ok with new G60 rear mount, depends how stiff you want it? Remember, if you uprate more than your front mount, you will feel vibration through the car & have a different clutch feel and that

Have picked up the car from the garage tonight, no faults with the suspension or steering have been found... Apart from seized tracking adjustment, play in cambelt, and the worn top mounts which I already knew about. Must just be me being too picky! :roll: As soon as I can get hold of the shocks, it will be going back in for springs/shocks/topmounts & 4 wheel alignment. :D

Too true, I have a rattle from the trim at the top of the drivers door aperture, I can't find where it comes from!

:?: I'm not saying i'm right and that everyone else is wrong, just merely expressing my opinion. I still have lots to learn about the 'black art' of suspension as we all do. Err, you don't design vehicle suspension for a living do you?? :) I used to be very much 'You MUST use shortened stiffened shocks with lowering springs ' but over the last couple of years I have seen that good results & reliability CAN be obtained from using good quality std. length GAS shocks with mild spring drops, so my opinion has changed a little. It's not that black & white. T/A kits are actually 'rebound' adjustable with fixed 'compression', well at least all the t/a's i've seen are. The last t/a kit I owned had very firm compression, and the adjustable rebound ranged from medium to rock hard! I ended up setting the rebound on fully soft, the car still handled extremely well, but stiffening up the rebound resulted in a unbalanced 'pogo stick' like ride and a bad back! Adjustable rebound (IMHO) is a cheap way of getting less bodyroll in the corners...... p.s. a friend of mine has had Eibach 30mm springs with Bilstein gas shocks fitted to his mk2 GTI today, and is so far very pleased with the results.

Errr, I mean't 16's ! :oops:

The Eibach website states that its mild drop springs (25mm for the Corrado) are designed for use with standard shocks. Corrado's have plently of suspension travel so lowering another 25mm is very unlikely to make the shock bottom out. VW lowered the golf GTI 16v 30mm and didn't shorten or particulary uprate the shocks! I'm not suggesting that you should use old wom shocks or cheap ones, but at least use good quality GAS shocks (particularly Bilstein GAS 10% uprated shocks, these are used in Bistein's own 40mm lowering kits) or shortened uprated shocks. Ideally I would have shortened shocks to suit my spring drop but in my experience they have damping rates which are usually far too hard to allow any ride comfort. of course, poor quality soft springs would bottom out like hell with standard shocks, this is why yours Bilsteins are a bit on the hard side. p.s I found the ride even on standard suspension really poor with 17's, hence the reason why I ditched them for 17's.

a blob of clear silicone between parts does the job

Sounds daft but have you actually driven the car yet or just run the engine? When ive done coolant changes, the pressure release recall valves don't let anything pass with it stood there idling, but when I took it out for a run it seems to sort itself out. Let the engine warm up, then feel the pipes before and after the valves to check for temp differance. If the return hose from the matrix is cold, there is no flow of coolant through the matrix at all(probably caused by a seized recall valve)

Cheers I'll check the anti-roll bar mountings. Added to all this, I found the n/s front tyre is worn badly on the inside, great! I think alot of this is because the previous owner had it lowered, but for some reason stock front springs were put back on, and the steering alignment has not been done. It drives straight but there is visible positive camber which aint good(american-style tyre screeching at low cornering speeds) :D :shock: :oops: Anyway on wednesday it's getting a full mechanical check over and 4-wheel laser alignment, so that should put a few things right and answer a few questions!! thanks,

I was after Bilstein front shocks and I was offered Boge instead - glad I didn't accept them now. Are they GAS shocks? I used to have a weitec kit on the mk2, had the fixed damping kit first then the t/a kit, both are too hard!! Quality kit, great for racing but way too firm for road use, must be like 60% uprated or something. maybe you could try standard oil only shocks but just not Boge, find out what make they would be if you got the OE ones from VAG? Coilovers won't give you any more comfort. Those eibachs you've got claim to retain ride quality but many ppl have said that they are too firm. I'm going for Boge 40mm lowering springs so I'll let you know, but they won't be going on now till the new year.

Putting the heater controls on full only applied to the golf mk1 matrix which had a valve on it. Mk2/Corrado matrix's flow coolant all the time, the heater control just opens an airway flap. I spent ages looking for that valve until someone told me this! When you say valves in the hoses, do you mean the pressure relief valves that were done as a VAG recall? I thought it only applied to the mk2 golf?

cheers, I will check all the vac pipes for leaks/missin connections. Standard airbox is removed so that is one vac pipe that is missing for a start!

I know what you mean, ppl differ in how they notice things. Like this morning I'd got half way to work then realised it didn't seem so bad this morn! Having no stereo to listen to make's you notice things alot too! It's fine over bumps and changes where both the front wheels pass over, seems to be more when the bump only affects one wheel, which makes me think its the suspension fighting against the stiffer roll bar's fitted to 'rado's

I started searching for my G60 in August, and eventually found a minter in October. The first one I saw was 3k and it was an absolute shed, put me off corrado's for abit! In the end I realise I was gonna have to pay around 4-4500 for a mint '92 G60 with history/charger history. I also saw a few forecourt g60's at 5k, some of them were shocking(peeling laquer, dodgy electrics/alarms) watchout! The one I bought started off at 5k, and I would of paid it cos I was getting desperate and it was very clean. Paid £4500 in the end! Good luck !

If they are heated, the back of the glass should have a large heating element bonded to it underneath the white plastic backing, with two spade connectors protruding out at one end. There is a chance the glass might of been replaced with pattern glass which has no heating element. If the heater elements are working properly, they should melt the ice and dry off before you even finish scraping the windows!! In Less than 5 mins then :)

Brentacre Insurance are great for performance VW's (std. or modded) They are run by Club GTI members apparently. They gave the best price on my G60 (i'm 24) that is with mods and I can go up to 180 BHP within that policy (they can cover higher BHP too)

cheers guys, I will take it apart and see if it's foam or paper/mesh type. If its foam its going in the bin, well at least when i've found something to replace it !!

cheers fella's. will give it a good check over next weekend. Got stuck fixing the girlfriends corsa this weekend, god they are a bugger to work on!!

Hmm seriously starting to think that something is wrong..... I know one of the top mounts is bad (to be replaced) but that wouldn't explain it all. Anyway i've booked the car in for a thorough check over & report on wednesday to we'll see what they find.

Should ride be really crashy on a g60 with std. shocks/springs & 15" wheels? Ride is generally ok apart from going over slight bumps/expansion gaps/manhole covers on say one side of the car - it always makes a loud crash as if it were a large pothole! My old GTI was dropped 40mm on very firm shocks & 16" wheels, and was better over slight bumps than the Corrado is! It baffles me cos I cringe going over slight surface changes that I wouldnt even of noticed in the GTI..... Could it be just down to the stiffer springs on the Corrado and the thicker anti roll bars? Springs are newish & shocks r good, top mounts a little ropey! cheers

Sorry, I meant free rotational play before it acts on the wheels. In normal driving it isnt that noticeable, it seems to be on bumpy/potholed roads, expansion gaps on bridges etc, then u feel the 'knock' as the play is taken up on the rack. Sometimes you'll feel it 'knock' back and forth and the wheels move around on the bumps. Guess I should get both front wheels up in the air and check the free movement that way. thanks,

My C has an induction kit (can't remember the make, didn't recognise it) consisting of a big red can with a silver 'dome' type end so the fitler element isn't visible. I had to tie wrap it to the slam panel to stop it catching on the charger pulley(!) and there is some pointless silver foil stuff on the chassis leg underneath it. ????? Which is better for the G60? Stock airbox or Induction kit? Any recommendations? I'm Worried about how well the filter works, and the fact that it's sucking hot air from the engine bay. Can those induction kit heat sheilds(eg jabba's) be bought seperately? Should I go back to the Original airbox? Cheers

The steering has some play in it which is more noticable when driving over bumps & surface changes. My old mk2 had higher milage and on the original rack, and felt much more solid. It has had a new steering rack fitted by a previous owner about a year ago(there is a service report from 1998 that advises play in steeering column) The new rack wasn't a genuine part, probably a german & swedish one, could this be the reason for the play? Could the 'play' just be because the Corrado has a firmer susp/roll bar set up, therefore more is felt through the s/wheel? Genuine racks cost a fortune, I wouldn't want to shell out for one that will feel no better than the existing rack! cheers,

Seems to of developed an intermittent dodgy idle, but not in the way i'd of expected. When coming to a stop, the idle falls smoothly and rests at 900rpm, no probs. But then after a few secs it sometimes starts to fall to about 500rpm, then upto 1100rpm then recovers, and the process repeats itself until I drive off again. I'd of thought that if it were a problem with the ISV, it would be the opposite way round, and would eventually settle down to a steady idle. Could this be an electrical problem/hall sender/ECU ??? I've also noticed on the motorway at a certain speed, the car will loose power very slightly then return, the a few seconds later it will do the same gain, repeated. No jerks or stutters, and it wouldnt be noticed if you were constantly changing speed etc. Could the two be related?

I seem to be getting about 28mpg overall, thats with stage 4/chip/pulley. I noticed that its alot heavier on juice at higher speeds, at 40mph it will read about 40-45 mpg, but motorway speeds 60-80 it really drops off to the low 20's. My 8v GTI used to have good fuel consumption even at 110mph! I thought Vr's were supposed to be heavier on petrol than the G60's??