Andy T

That's what I pay for a proper job, about £125, mind you thats just fitting front shocks/springs, and FULL laser 4-wheel aligment, which takes some time to do properly on a lowered car. Be very carful where you take it, preferably somewhere that is used to fitting lowered suspension! oh and change the front top bearingswhile your at it too, only £12-ish each cheers, Andy

Have they tested for play in the steering and suspension (with wheels off the ground) by pulling the wheels in different directions, and then doing the same while moving the steering lock-to-lock? Did they check just camber and track, or did you get a report on all the alignments such as castor? Could it be that they have adjusted the tracking on the wrong side? apparently it should only be adjusted on a specific side, and if the opposite side is adjusted, the steering will never be right unless the rack is taken off the car and setup again to factory measurements! Suspension top mounts? Unlikely though. Are the tyres ok/on the right direction?

:) you bought that from me :) I'm putting it in the post tomorrow. I actually paid £10 for it from a guy who swore the bulb worked :evil: , it definately doesn't ! i thought I might get a bit more than the starting bid tho !! The bulb unit (for the slider type) is 9mm diameter, so I reckon a 501 type (10mm?) wide angle LED could be fitted with a bit of work - the bulb holder would need drilling through then opening out, and a few other bits would need trimming for clearance. A 5mm LED would go in alot easier but would it be bright enough?? The existing bulb sits so close to the black cover that it actually melts it a little! I took some pics of the bulb unit and the inside of the panel showning the bulb, but I cant post them here because I haven't got the software to resize them at the mo.

We've got the early slider controls unfortunately, which you can't get the special bulbs for anymore

I've had the panel apart, it has a special bulb in a plastic body which has the prongs that the wiring loom connects to... a new bulb 'could be fitted, but it would need a few mods, probably be a fiddy job!

Aye very good point, as the panel is in the house i just tested the bulb connector with a 9v continuity tester...... shows absolutely no voltage - assume its pretty much dead then? I blamed the wiring looms as my speakers/ABS/heater switch do funny things when going over bumps occasionally lol. So can the new panel still be bought from VAG, any idea how much? cheers

I Forgot to mention, the old oil was like runny gravy and this is only an 80k mile car, I'd recommend everyone to change their oil even if just with cheaper mineral oil because its obviously not fit for the life of the car!

Eventually purchased some Redline MT90 frm the very friendly Delta Oil, who gave me a discount for 'being' a member of an owners Club! I filled the box with it along with a slick 50 treatment, what an improvement! The gears engage perfectly now and the synchro engagement can no longer be felt through the gear lever. I've not tried any hard and fast gearchanges yet because I need to replace a knackered front engine mount which may of contrubuted to the problem! Cheers

Quick update on this, I'd still not got around to fixing it, but yesterday I hit a pothole and the thing started working! Was fine for about a day but then cut out when adjusting the fan speed switch! So it looks like a dodgy connection in the wiring loom somewhere, the panel & loom connector are fine. Just a warning really not to assume the bulb is knackered, check for voltage at the connector before shelling out on a new panel guys! Cheers

Cheers guys, thata a relief! I've never noticed it being on when returning to the car so it must be turning itself off after a few mins. I'll check the tank for leaks, and the fuel filter definately should be replaced soon! Ta

I noticed the other day when sat in my car with the ignition turn off, after about 5mins I could hear a whirring at the back of the car, presumably the fuel pump. I turned the ignition on then off again - after about 5 mins the whirring reoccured!! I'm just wondering why it does this, and if its doing it half the night! I never hear it first thing in the morning when getting in the car, anybody any idea's?

Cheers for that, it still sits high but it doesnt feel as loose now, so like u say its something a bit more complicated. Other than that the clutch feels fine and gearchanges are good.

The clutch pedal has suddenly started sitting higher up than normal - and there is a couple of inches of really loose travel before it has the usual resistance when pressing it down. Has the pedal stop broken or something, any idea's? thanks

You can't beat lots of suds & shit loads of water, and plenty of elbow grease :) whats the jet wash all about????

Cheers for the link Stormseeker :D I borrowed a haynes manual 'Engine managment/fuel systems' which explains how to do it in the digifant section. I can't understand why you only have a 2-pin black connector, when according to this manual, the black connector is the power supply and the brown(or white) connector is the SD output. ??? Where is your connector, is it in front of the gearlever or somewhere else?

VAG 1551 is the reader that I get my fault codes read on ('92 G60), so I could do it myself with a test lamp?? Where would i find the code listings?? cheers,

Brilliant.... cheers!

Tempting but how do I know they will be any better than what I've got? will give it some thought mate yeah thats what I thought..... Mine opens a few inches then stops, then I have to heave it up to head level, after that its okayish!

I had mine back on the VAGCOM this week, It displayed a fault related to a voltage problem. (ABS light comes on about 1-2 times a week while driving) The Garage told me to look out for wiring faults/bad connections/earths, and also to try replacing both ABS relays (posn. 15 & 16 I think, will confirm) with genuine VAG relays.

My tailgate struts seem pretty tired as it takes a fair bit of effort to lift the tailgate. G&S & EuroCP don't list them for the corrado, am I going have to get them from the stealers, or is there anywhere else that supply them? Also, has anyone found that similar struts form a different model can be used? Cheers,

What parts need to be removed to get access to the top bolt? Can you just get away with removing the fan & the 'charger to cooler' pipe? Also, can the front mount be withdrawn easily by just undoing the bolts and jacking the engine to clear the mount? (with the std. mount that has a top stud as opposed to a threaded hole and a thu-bolt on some types) I struggled on my mk2 with this, the engine was jacked as far up as it would go, and the engine bracket still fouled the thread on top of the mount, so I couldn't get it out without releasing the rear & gearbox mount (big job) Hope that made sense,cheers

G60's don't have a fault memory in the ECU... If you have an ABS fault, the only time you can read which fault it is, is when the light is on and the car is still running... Turn off the ignition and the fault is cleared... :? Took me bloody ages to get the car to VAG with the light on to find out what the fault was when mine went faulty the first time... :? :roll: Cheers, I wasn't aware of that, maybe my garage aren't either! When I last had it in they replaced a wheel sensor and everything seemed fine. Now occassionally the light will come back on when I set off down the road, but it only happens every two weeks or so. So you think its unlikely to be a pump fault? Could it be a intermittent fault on another wheel sensor that isn't get picked up by VAGCOM? cheers

Sorry yeah, sounded a bit daft that! Just had the front shocks, springs & top mounts replaced. The tracking/camber was way way out, which probably affected the way bumps were absorbed by the wheels/susp hence all the crashy ride/exaggerated steering play. The old shocks were an unmatched pair and one was very cheap & nasty thing which probably didn't help much. Pleased to say it the car now feels nice, smooth and solid in all respects like the old golf did..... :)

If two garages have diagnosed a pump fault, asurely they must of done a fault code diagnostic check, which would of told them if there was a problem with the wheel sensors, and which is the offending wheel/s. I'm in the same situation, mine had loads of ABS related fault codes, but when cleared from the memory they didn't reappear. But the ABS light comes on under heavy braking and definately does not work. I think If it was a wheel sensor the ABS light would come on and stay on, not go out when you pull away? You need to have your fault codes read, then reset, then read again after a few days driving/hard braking to see which codes re-appear.

Yeah I had a look last night, if you look right at the top you should see where the sleeve clips on to the bottom of the black rubber bumpstop