Andy T

Replaced the slave cylinder yesterday, what a bastard of a job, would of been easy but the pipe union was seized solid into the cylinder! Had to disconnect the flexibe pipe further back, remove the whole lot then travel 10 miles home on the bus just to put it in a vice and get the molegrips on it! It Came out after a bit of persuasion with a steel mallet, hopped back on the bus and put it all back together again. I've got a clutch now but still not got full travel in it - Maybe I've not bled it properly? I bled the master cyl. then the slave cyl. and run a 500ml bottle of fluid through using a pressurised bleeding kit. Any Idea's? Maybe I need to replace the master cyl. aswell :(

Wish I'd read your post, got in the car this morning and clutch has totally gone, right to the floor. Can't engage any gears at all. So its off to GSF in the morning for a new slave cylinder, might make it to work for lunchtime ! cheers

Cheers, I'll need to get myself a set of these then, as they'll be going in Audioscape pods, and will probably look better than the old type ta

Ah right, dont know why i thought the EW was on the handle! Are the EW switches on the door pockets the same as the earlier type? or maybe the same switches but in a different housing? Is the 'bracket' the plastic extended bit of the door handle?

Yeah the fit was excellent, perfect even where it blends around the profile of the door panel into the pocket. They almost look standard fit, just nicer :) When I bought them they did a Vinyl grain finish for £120, and Leather for £170, but the vinyl grain finish is excellent so I'd recommend those. bear in mind if you ever took them off the door cards you'd be left with screw holes that wont be covered by the original pockets. You wont be disappointed though, they sound brilliiant :)

Whats the difference between them? On Etka they are exactly the same part number(?) Obviously the early cards have a hole in the flat part of the panel for the EW switches. Do the late cards have a hole near the door handle for the Combined handle, EW & Mirror switch? (going off memory now) Are there any other differences? Photos would be good. The reason I ask is because I have the early interior and I want to get rid of the EW switch there (it looks crap and is akward to use!) I want to put tweeters in their place (easy on the passenger side, but the double switch hole on the drivers side is too big) and then have the EW switches in Audioscape door pods. I guess If I got late door cards I would have to get the late door handle/EW/EM unit ??? Cheers for any help!

Does that mean that G60 Fuel/Ignition fault codes cannot be read at all, or is it just VAG-COM that can't read them? Can they be read by the old VAG1551, or by using a diode/test lamp circuit? Cheers

I've enquired with Audioscape about a group buy discount. They say they could offer a discount if we purchased matching speakers with the enclosures, such as Focal, Seas Lotus, and some other makes they supply. I already have component speakers to go in them so its no good for me :( but if anyone else is still interested I will call them for details and the discount prices for a enclosure/speaker combo. Cheers, Andy

I Didn't realise you could get the rubber roof strip seperately. I got a price off GPC for the roof trims 'complete' they are £30+vat each (alot cheaper than the stealer) I gave them a big list of corrado bits and bobs and they could get them all - so they sell alot more than they advertise. As for G60 cassette keys (AH profile), they must be still available because they are always on Ebay - I got one for about £12... :)

Is anyone using ATE power discs? They sell them at Euro car parts, and have two continuous grooves in them that overlap 3 times around the disc face. Any good? I'm I right in thinking that ATE make VW's OE brake disc's, so the quality should be bang on? cheers

Yeah unfortunately they were on it when I bought it, and there's no receipt for front discs's. The holes are badly corroded so the pads are probably picking up hard chips of rust which cant be helping much! What have you changed to now Kev?

Mine are in straight lines - the pattern is 3 holes/2 holes/3 holes and so on. I took one of the front wheels off today, to have a look at the brake disc. Both sides of the disc were unevenly worn, in bands. The bands were inline with and the same width as the drillings, so it seems that the drilled holes are causing the disc to wear unevenly. It's hard to describe, but every other 'band' had worn more than the one next to it, by about 0.5-1mm. So maybe the uneven disc surfaces are causing the vibration when they heat up and expand slightly? :? German & Swedish don't list any brembo discs for the G60 now - shame because Brembo MAX look great (6 groove with a phosphate finish)

Not touching the bearings, just gonna change the pads and take the discs off to take sure they were seated cleanly on the hub.

ignore that I was talking crap, its a 13 & 15mm spanner isn't it! Will the discs come off without removing the pad carrier, if not, what sockets do I need to take it off? cheers,

Pretty sure the front bearings are ok- they were replaced about 30k ago. Theres no rumbling when fast cornering so they should be ok! Does anyone know the size of the Hexagon key/socket required for taking the caliper bolts out? Think i'll go and get a proper hexagon head socket drive rather than chance it with an allen key :) Cheers

Stel g60, yeah mine does the same after 30 seconds, I didnt know what it was though! I know i've locked the car when driving by using the door pins, but I cant remember if i've unlocked them with the engine still running or not. I'll have to check that tonight. My alarm/immob is an old-ish Meta system with only one button on the remote, so I doubt it would have the door locking ability without turning the alarm on, what do you think ? cheers

Cheers, sounds quite straightforward then. I've actually bought a CL switch off a Lupo, it has 2 buttons, one for lock, one for unlock, I guess it should work as well as a window switch? I will check if it has dead locking!! thanks

Yeah they can supply them with slots for electric window switches. They have recently updated the Corrado pods and they reckon they are one of the best they've ever done. I had them in my mk2 Golf with Alpine components, absolutely brilliant they were (but a bit cheaper at £120) I'm getting some as soon as I can afford, maybe we could set up a group buy? Andy

Thats exactly the problem I am getting! I assumed the increase in noise was dues to them heating up. It gets so loud that ppl look round at you expecting your car to blow up ! So maybe its just a problem with certain types of drilled disc's - what disc's are you running Aide? It turned out that the 17's were ok, they were actually on spigot rings that were the same colour as the hub! Anyway its on 16's now that are a proper VW fitment. The Brembo discs sound good, maybe I'll swop to those eventually. The rear bearings are ok, nice and quiet. It seems to be coming more from the offside wheel, I might just take the o/s disc off first and make sure the mating faces are totally clean, then try with new pads, plenty of Copper grease of course 8) cheers

Changed my front mount at the weekend, was pretty straight forward apart from getting those fiddly fan housing bolts out! It also a good idea to put duck tape on the slam panel else you end up scratching it when lifting the housing out :? The old mount had totally gone, and the fluid just poured out of a gaping hole around the top stud! The rear mount looks quite easy (easier than the mk2 golf solid mount anyway) it looks like it would just slide out with the bolts removed and the engine jacked slightly.

Right, I still have this front brake problem, but I need to sort it this weekend! I'm thinking of replacing the 'pagid' pads with a set of Pagid FR, rather than try and resurrect the old pads. Only thing i'm worried about is that the drilled disks could be causing the problem - I have no idea who they are made by! I've also noticed, with the windows down, that the front brakes are very noisy even when slow/light braking (cant be the tyres because I had the same tyre on my mk2) :roll: Should I try a new set of pads both first, or should I junk the lot, and get some VAG disks? Could the new pads go the same way if used with drilled disks? I like to do a job once rather than 5 times if you know what I mean! :) and finally, how many miles to break the new pads in properly? cheers

My G60 seems to run at about 110 when crusing at about 80, and i've not yet driven it in warm weather! Would fitting one to a g60 achieve a similar temp. drop to what the VR6 boys are getting? Cheers, Andy

Or you could uprate slightly to the G60 mount, 191 199 279 C (also used on synchro's, diesels) Andy

My last car had an alarm fitted that could lock/unlock the doors when you were driving, by pressing the key fob. I really miss this feature (especially living in manchester!) as my C's alarm can't do this. Is there a way I could hook up a switch on the dashboard to do this? Would it be a case of wiring a switch to the two wires that run from the drivers door handle? would bridging this circuit activate/deactivate the CL with the ignition on/engine running? My C has CL, EW, and non-std Alarm & Immobiliser. Cheers for any help, Andy

What year did the bonnet change? mines a March 1992, is that a late bonnet? So if I got some of these MkIII bonnet lifters, would I have to drill & tap both bonnet & wing? Do they just 'bolt-on' to the mk3 or is that a drilling job.... Is it possible to get a nut on the thread on the underside of the wing, for extra security? cheers