Andy T

John, I thought Wax Wizard was no more, and that Mark had gone to work for Swissol? I'm still using my Wax Wizard cleanse/wax kit that I bought 3 yrs ago - brilliant stuff! Andy

Can anyone recommend a good set of alloy/stainless bonnet lifters for the Corrado? preferably the type that utilise the existing bolt holes on the wing/bonnet, don't fancy drilling holes! cheers

Bled the clutch yesterday, the old fluid was pretty dark and full of tiny metal shavings. Took the car for a spin, the clutch felt exactly the same and was still sitting half way down. I checked the master cylinder from inside the car, the piston was dry so it's not leaking from there. But, by the time I got to work this morning, the clutch has restored itself and I've got full travel on it now :) But I'm not holding my breath! :roll:

Thanks pal, yeah I noticed last night that I'd need the later cowling. Cheers

Can you put the late C (mk3 golf style) indicator/wiper stalk unit onto an early C that has the 'mk2 golf' stalks? Would of thought they are a straight swop, the Hazard warning switch looks alot bigger tho... and would the MFA functions all work? cheers

Ahhh, sorry I see what you meant now! There was some fluid underneath the gearbox when I first got the car, and it reappeared when I changed the box oil two months later. At the time I assumed the gearbox gasket was leaking slightly, I better check it properly! thanks

Cheers. Strangely, the pedal has more travel driving home tonight, and gear changes are fine! sits about half way down now. Had a thought, if the slave cylinder was leaking, wouldn't it leak unseen from the piston, into the clutch casing? :roll:

Cheers. So was it the slave cyl. that died on your car? Speaking to someone else, they reckoned the master cyl. is the most likely to go... Could do with finding out how many SC's get sold at GSF compared to MC's ! ta

I had a look and both cylinders and they seem bone dry, not checked underneath tho. I might have a go at bleeding both cyl's then, I know the brakes were done just before I bought it, because braided hoses were fitted, but then I doubt the clutch was done at the same time. So either cylinder could give me the symptoms it's having then? How do you know which one to change? At ECP the slave is £40+vat and the Master £78+vat (!!) and they are the same part no. as the passat. Cheers,

Clutch pedal hasn't been returning properly just lately, now its only an inch of the floor! it just about works, but the gear chage is bad, there's only about 10mm between 'on' and 'off' , and it's obviously not disengaging fully. Is it more likely to be the Master Cylinder or Slave cyl? or could it be something else? To my suprise, my 5 quid Lynsay/Porter manual shows the hydraulic setup well, it explains how to change the cyl's and bleed the system. :D The fluid reservoir is full and the fluid isn't too old, cheers for any help! Andy

Ahhh right.... The wiring seemed a bit tight so i didn't like to pull it - I will have another go then, if it saves me taking the panel off... cheers

Last time I had my head under the dash it looked very similar to the mk2 setup, probably identical.... Can you not stiffen up the baseplate with some epoxy resin? Gotta be an easier way than replacing it! andy

I need to change my passenger side door handle too.... but do you not have to take the door panel out so that you can unclip the door handle wiring loom? What is the loom for anyway? is it related to the Central locking? Cheers, Andy

Cheers, yeah a pic would be great, thanks. So it's quite loud at idle then, or did you mean when driving? Andy

Just found out today that Supersprint do a backbox for the g60 with a 5" x 3" oval tailpipe, anyone got one of these, or a full system, what do they sound like? Loud/medium/quiet ? I'd be fitting it onto the back of a powerflow front & middle silencer (which don't silence much!) as the backbox is either dead or maybe just built to be loud! I can get one for £185, I would have a magnex but they only do a oval tailpipe in a full system which is £300 and out of my budget. Cheers for any help, Andy

I thought Boge Turbogas were the 20% uprated sports shocks, and that standard shocks were just called 'GAS' or automatic or something??

I can help with the rear end because i've done it before and its pretty straight forward- Tools - trolley jack, 2 x axle stand, 13mm & 17mm spanners, water pump pliers or similar (for holding flats on damper piston rod) screwdrivers, grease, WD40 etc. etc. 1) Spray releasing fluid/wd40 on the lower shock bolts underneath car 2) Remove obstructions from rear strut towers in boot (parcel shelf supports etc.) 3) Via boot, slacken top nut on shock absorbers (if piston rod spins, grip flats with pliers) 4) Get under car and SLACKEN 17mm bolt that holds shock body onto rear axle. 5) Jack car up and support both sides with axle stands at proper jacking points, so both rear wheels are in the air. Remove wheels. 6) Support rear axle with trolley jack so it won't drop suddenly when you release the fixings. 7) Back in the boot, remove top nut, rubber bushings & middle nut from top of shocks (note order of parts for re-assy) 8 Underneath the car, remove lower shock bolts to release the shock/spring assy. 9) Lower rear axle down on trolley jack so shock assemblies can be removed. Stripping down the shock assembly is dead straight forward, just note order & orientation of parts. When reassembling with new shock & spring, check for corrosion of the spring caps, and condition of rubber bushings. Fit new foam spring assistors, don't cut them down for a 40mm drop. Clean all the parts, use some rubber lubricant on the bushings to prevent squeaks. Ensure nut on top of shock assembly is nice and tight, you don't want it coming loose on the car! When refitting the new shock assemblies to the car, loosely fit the lower bolts, then use the trolley jack to lift the rear beam until the assemblies are pushed up to the chassis, now you can check they are seated properly, and nip up the top bushings & nuts, and lower bolts. Note : don't fully tighten the bolts & nuts until the full weight of the car is on the ground. When lowering the car, it;s also a good idea to slighty slacken off the rear axle pivot bolts, then retighten them to the correct torque when the full weight of the car is on the ground - this takes out the stress applied to the bushes from the axle being at a different angle due to the lower rider height. Also, you should reset the brake proportioning valve (underneath the car, n/side, at the rear axle) 1) Slacken off the nut/bolt that sits on the adjustment slot. 2) Slide the bolt along the adjustment slot until the spring is just under tension, but not enough to of moved the valve. 3) Tighten the nut and check that there is no slack in the spring. If you don't do this, you end up with too much braking effort at the back and less at the front ! Did any of that make sense? :? :-P :mrgreen: Andy

Slave cyl is probably original - Ive not seen a receipt for a new one anyway. Its a very distant, quiet crunch.... nothing felt through the gearlever.... First gear engages fine with no synchro crunch Its like something is sticking then releasing cheers

its probably as recent as 1992 lol, I have no receipts so i guess its stock. Thats a thought, first gear engages perfectly with no synchro noise, but could the synchro crunch a few seconds after pulling away? Its like something is sticking and suddenly releases/engages ??

Wahay i've fixed mine today ! Bought a 5mm 12v bulb from Maplins - it has a metal body and 2 wires out of the back - 42p ! I basically cut a thin strip of duck tape, and neatly rolled it around the bulb body until it was a nice push fit in the 9mm hole in the holder. I then made sure the bulb was positioned correctly to line up with the clear plastic 'refractor' then secured it in place. The connector prongs from the old bulb unit were pulled out and soldered to the new bulb's wires - so now it plugs nicely into the factory loom. I was worried that it wouldnt be bright enough - But its fine, brighter than the old bulb, and lights the whole panel perfectly :mrgreen: A little cheaper than Mr V W Stealer :lol:

Hmmm... it does it only when in first with clutch fully engaged.... it crunches before you change into second. Does yours make a noise?

When I drive the car from cold, a few seconds after the clutch is engaged there is a little crunch noise for about half a second - which can be felt through the clutch pedal. It started about 6 weeks ago, and only happens the first time pulling way after a cold start, or sometimes when the engine has only been off for half an hour. Is it the release bearing sticking or something? Thanks, Andy

get the other 3 sold on ebay mate !

I guess the 'non-adjust side' thread, would be corroded and seized up, and look untouched. Maybe there is a prob with the steering rack - I know mine had to be replaced ay 50k miles (previous owner) Andy

That is true, I think I would of done the fronts myself if I'd known how simple it is on the golf/corrado. Is a special tool needed for the castellated top nut on the shock assembly, or is there a way around it?