mimjed

dont honestly know chap. might not be much of a difference. never having ovwned a left hooker i dont know the ins and outs. if you bought from the stealer then tell them they ordered the wrong bit

http://www.ehow.com/how_2094753_rear-brake-pads-vw-jetta.html the piston turning bit is important

kr/9a = 027253031BH, same as rhd abf abf = 037253031BK (lhd) im assuming you will have lhd over there

thought i would add this, scroll to the bottom http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=273595 surely this wins??

not sure about abf, that was the tall block i think. pretty sure they are on different part numbers. might find the join to the downpipe doesnt match up.

both look fine in my opinion. i strongly believe the corrado seat is much better that the golf ones. youll see plenty of mk2's with corrado seats in for that reason. up to you though

thnk 2e was 8v so id go with ady

Hard to tell the length of the pipe, but if it fell short id assume you could, Chop the existing down pipe so it still has the silincer box, join with an exhaust sleeve. Or take it to an exhuast place and they will make you the missing piece. Shouldnt cost alot.

did you get this sorted? and not to be a muppet but are you definatly sure your boot lock has had it? mine is a pain too. have to turn it a fair way past vertical before it will pop personally i wouldnt wedge anything down the doors, wind noise after would do my sweed in. will there be any editing/censoring of this thread??

might be worth pushing the piston back in and pumping it out again. could be sticking a little bit

they are cheap off ebay or g werks do them brand new for about £60 i think. mine has the cat bypass on and is quiter than it was before it had any stainless on it???

ok, stainless exhaust manifold will fit both kr and 9a, so the one you have in the pic on page 1 is correct. the down pipes are; top one = downpipe before a cat was needed (pre 92 i think) second one = down pipe made for cat (92 onwards) stainless mani's have the traingle fitting for a cat as standard. you would just bolt on a cat bypass to make up for the gap where the cat/silencer box was/should be CAT_by_pass_pipe.jpg[/attachment:16tscziy] hope that makes sense

Looking on my phone so hard to tell, but they just look like down pipes, one with cat one with a silencer box. You just fit a cat bypass pipe to join the rest of the exhaust. I only have a centre and backbox on mine. Good flow

16v are the same, i believe, the position of the stud alters between 8/16valve. Should come with a triangle fitting on the end of it so you can fit a cat/cat bypass on

Theres a polishing bloke on ebay that does car polishing on the side, normally has a few manifolds and bits for sale. Sure you could arrange a deal with him, then at least you know the parts youre getting arent knackered

Kid riding a red bike on christmas day. Police man on a horse says to him "did santa bring you that?" Kid replies "yes he did" Police man writes him a ticket and says "next time tell him to put lights on it" Kid replies "did santa bring you that horse" Police man humouring him says "yes he did" Kid replies "next time tell him the dick doesnt go on top of the horse"

Might want goggles too actually, get a fews bits of crap in your eyes

Yeah do it yourself, i fitted full stainless to mine yesterday. I went with axle stand on the front and trolley jack on the rear, passenger side obviously. Once you stick your head under youll see how simple it is, only real tool you need is 13mm socket for the exhaust clamp. let it warm up a bit to seal the exhaust gum when your done.

Half hour jobs tops. Might need a screwdriver to lever rubbers on/off but other than that a bit of brute force and wiggling Edit, buy exhaust gum first. £3 ish

inlet/outlet manifold, exhaust. throttle body. fuel lines. all vacuum pipes. boost pipes. rocker cover and so on hopefully it will be something dead simple. sadly doesnt normally work like that.

well 10 out of 10 for effort, shame its for ruining a nice car i guess :(

sound, not properly on in what sense electrical or pipe work?

well got round to sorting out putting it back together, stainless four branch/decat/2 1/4" system all on. most gaskets now replaced. front brake upgrade is next then its mot time :clap: after having problems with a snapped manifold stud that is, ended up having to weld a nut on it but with being so close to fuel rail etc i went with wet tshirt over that and wet rags shoved in inlet and outlets, nervous isnt the word :shock:

makes the beetle look like childs play

finshed putting it back together today after a long fall out and started fine after a little cough revs shot straight round to 3500rpm. i killed it straight away - had a look at throttle cable, vacuum pipes etc all seemed to be fine. started again fine revs stayed around 1200rpm but then creeped up to 1750rpm - when warm idles at 1500 rpm anything blindingly obvious ive missed? i was thinking ecu vacuum pipe could have a kink in it, but too dark to see properly. any help or suggestions please.