tonytiger

Exhaust blowing shouldn't affect the way the car runs. The throttle damper may be causing the stalling but it's not certain. If it's not operating correctly it won't help. As you say, you may be able to adjust it to improve the situation. However, I think lots of people have trouble with vr's stalling/cutting out with no guaranteed cure. The throttle position sensor could also impact it, if it's not correctly calibrated or not detecting when the throttle has closed (which you can check in vagcom). It sounds like the maf is working okay if the car dies with it unplugged - though I think the only way to be sure if a maf is working is to have it connected to an oscilloscope. A smoke test is a good way to find a vac leak, but I don't think they're simple or cheap to get done - or at least weren't when I looked at this a few years ago. You may find that no matter what you test and replace, you can't cure the problem. So the simplest thing to stop yourself going mad is probably to learn 'heel and toe'. Or at least do that for a while, then come back to tackle the problem later on. And in case you're wondering, I've been through all this myself - and I understand it's really, really irritating. I did find mine was much better for a good while after having some work done - I had the engine replaced!!!

Is the throttle damper working? When you let off the throttle suddenly, do the revs drop straight down to idle, or do they drop to a higher value first (maybe 1500-ish - can't quite remember) and then more slowly drop to idle?

The lack of a lambda sensor shouldn't stop it running/revving - assuming the wires aren't shorted together. The ECU should detect the lack of signal and run a default fueling mode (rich). Also, for the first few minutes (2 mins I think) after starting the car, the signal is ignored anyway while the lambda sensor heats up. Have you had it on diagnostics as soon as you've got it started? Apart from checking for faults, in vagcom you can look at the 'measuring blocks' and see if the values look sensible.

In a corrado? Really? 10 months perhaps. :grin: Or maybe that's just mine. Can't disagree though, great car and great forum. Thanks to you, Andi, and the rest of the mods for keeping it running.

You need to look at the Ah and the CCA rating. You'll often find 2 apparently equivalent batteries with the same Ah rating have different CCA - higher is better. And as almost everybody else has said, I'd go for Bosch Silver (S5) or maybe the S4 range if it's significantly cheaper.

As others have said, £650 looks like a great price for your age for a corrado. Unless of course you've told a few porkies on go-compare...... In comparison, I'm late thirties and I'm paying £480 for a Saxo VTR (with a few very minor mods) with 4 years ncb, and £326 for the corrado vr6 on a limited 3000 mile policy with full ncb.

Well done that man! :thumbleft: Unfortunately I can't see the pics at the moment as I'm at work, but will have a look later at home. Most people only think about the money - which to a point I can understand - but these are classic cars now (more or less) so people shouldn't be expecting to get all their money back when they want to move on. It would be interesting/frightening to know what it's cost you to resurrect it.

Glad to hear you're going to save it, and hope you're okay too.

Didn't realise that sheet was tailored to the car, thought it was just a standard sheet for all cars. Going back to ABS removal, looking at this -> http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_340.htm it says "If an ABS or ESC system has been intentionally rendered inoperative, the whole system must be removed. However, this does not apply to sensor rings or other ABS components which are an integral part of another component e.g. brake disc or drive shaft." So does that not mean you can remove the abs system and pass the mot legally?

Thanks for the replies chaps. I did look at the halfords ones, but decided they weren't for me - I think it was because there's one deeper drawer rather than 2 - and the brand new, unopened one the guy opened for me to look at was already damaged! davidwort - hope you've just been unlucky rather than them all ending up like that. They are just for light home use, but I'd hope they'll be fairly robust. Maybe I should look at the halfords ones again before I decide.

Any competent MOT tester should spot the abs pump I would have thought - not sure if there's a database/checklist though. Never seen my mot guy refer to one.

That looks a good price. When I got one a few years back I could only find bosch. Did wonder about trying some other random alternative - but decided it'd probably cost more in trial and error than just forking out for the right one in the first place. Then 1 year, 1 month later the new bosch unit packed up - just outside warranty, and bosch weren't interested at all. :mad:

Looking at getting a tool cabinet and chest to try to get organised (as I can never find the right tools when I need them), probably Clarke Heavy Duty range - specifically these: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cbi170b-7-drawer-tool-cabinet-blue-lin http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/070118130 Could possibly look at the extra large (wide) ones - but they're obviously a lot more expensive (and I probably don't have sufficient tools at the moment to need all that storage). So thinking I could go with those smaller ones, and if necessary just buy the same again if I want more of the same type of storage. Does anybody else have the Clarke HD ones, and how have you found them? Quality okay? Drawer sizes okay, or too shallow? Anybody know when the next Machine Mart vat free day is likely to be? I never seem to have much to buy when the VAT free days are on, and lots to buy when they're not!

Great colour - shame about the wheels, but at least they're easily sorted.

I think the loose pipe you've found is part of the vacuum system - but it's been so long since I didn't anything useful on my car I can't honestly remember. It certainly won't help if it was loose though - so needs reconnecting properly. However, as has been said - if you haven't already, you MUST get this on diagnostics to see if it highlights any errors. I'd strongly recommend getting VAGCOM(VCDS) yourself (assuming you have access to a laptop) - or appealing for somebody local with vagcom to assist you. Apart from checking for fault codes, you can check some of the values that the sensors are returning/ecu sees.

Hope the damage isn't too bad - but as said could have been so much worse, for you and other traffic if the wheel had actually come free. Good luck getting it sorted out.

Probably not, as the buyer and seller can agree to mutually cancel the sale, and I think you get your final value fee back (but not your listing fee). In theory, if a seller (especially with the same seller) was doing that lot ebay should notice and do something - but I doubt they do.

It's probably just a coincidence - as I'm convinced those are 2 separate accounts - though that doesn't mean it isn't the same person using multiple accounts or getting a friend to bid. Ebay do say they take steps to prevent shill bidding, but I'm not convinced they do or how successful it is if they really do. I'd be more concerned if it was private bidding, or if you get a second chance offer in the next day or two. Or maybe the item will be relisted. You can always keep an eye on the sellers feedback and see if they get feedback on this item.

When did that change? Have you got a link to info about it please?

Is it? I thought you could remove the system completely if you wanted to.

Well, I don't think there's any getting away from how bad that looks - but have you seen the air-cooled wrecks that get salvaged and restored - in comparison to a lot of them this looks almost showroom condition! It's refreshing to hear somebody wanting to repair (or possibly re-shell) a corrado rather than just breaking. I think there's definitely something in what VW_OwneR_85 said though, as this may end up taking over your life (and bank account). What ever route you take with this, good luck!

As I understand it, that should be perfectly fine. If you've got a eurocarparts handythey're doing 25% off oil if you use code WEBSAVER25 on a reserve and collect (or free delivery). They do the same Mobil Super 2000 X1 or Shell Helix which is a little cheaper.

My thoughts exactly - I absolutely hate the enclosed wheels.

Where I work there's a defined process for sick leave, and what happens if you're off too many days in a year, or too many times -it can result in formal written warnings and eventually dismissal. It's a cheap way for my company to get rid of people. Hopefully it's not like that where you work, but it sounds like this is a standard procedure so ideally you should know what the process is - just to be on the safe side. If you're a trade union member, I'd strongly recommend getting a union representative to sit it on the meeting with you - just to make sure the company are doing things correctly. Obviously, genuine sickness shouldn't be a problem and in theory the company will just be doing this to support you and see if there's anything they can do to help, etc - but in my experience that's not exactly what happens.

Merry Christmas everybody. Something's gone horribly wrong today though, it's almost 1pm and the last alcohol I had was 12 hours ago! :x-mas: