tonytiger

If only you'd posted that 24 hours earlier! Thanks though - I'll try and remember them for next year....

As said, you should be able to leave follow up feedback. Or, you might be able to request ebay to revise your feedback if you say you made a mistake.

With the current tax/insurance/SORN laws, it's much more difficult/expensive to hang to a second car after you've bought your new one, so you've probably done the right thing to trade it in (though as said, you'd probably have got more privately overall in the end). Nice car, but I'm not keen on all the expensive fancy electric things on modern cars...

I'll take one please. PM on its way.

I'm sure a lot of people will just say give up and move on (swiftly followed by requests for parts off it!), but there's never any guarantee when you get another car that you won't have to spend a small fortune on it unexpectedly. Mine has been off the road for over 3 years (started now and again, but hardly moved), and I've just started looking at it again. I've got a similar list of things to get through (though hopefully not the clutch - I've got the spoiler to fix instead), and although it's probably going to take me a while to get through, for me it's better than the alternative of breaking it. I'd definitely do as much as you can yourself, but I'd agree with letting the garage do the clutch - the only problem is when they find other problems along the way. You should be able to do the OSF gaitor (i'm assuming that's the CV boot) yourself and the drop links. I'm not sure what's involved on the arb bushes, and the wheel bearing I think needs pressing out and in (but not 100% on that). It'll probably come down to what tools and facilities you have. I have to work outside, so I'm reliant upon dry-ish weather to be able to get on with a lot stuff. Also, you may be able to source the parts yourself substantially cheaper than the garage. But you could really do with knowing how much you'll be saving by doing bits of the work yourself - it just might not be worth the hassle to you. Good luck with this - I hope it's back on the road for you soon!

That's what I thought when I first saw it :wink: But actually, I thought it was a great pic/card, and really appreciated. :thumbleft: Was surprised there wasn't a note on the back about the car/owner, but now I know! And now seems like a good chance to say thank you to everybody who volunteers their time for the ccgb. So Merry Christmas to you all, and bah humbug to those who don't appreciate it.

Put me down for four please. Cheers.

Not sure if I'm posting this in the right place - please move if not. I have no connection with the company or anything, just thought it may be helpful to people buying/selling on here.... I've used Collectplus successfully (on the whole) a couple of times now to send parcels cheaply. Parcels can be up to 10kg and upto 50x30x30cm and costs £3.99. It's not a door to door service, it operates between shops - but I found this quite convenient as I could post a parcel any day of the week, early morning or late evening. If anybody does use this - just make sure when sending that the shop assistant uses the send option, not the return option.

I bought a VDO sender using a vag part number - T11 919 081 - bought it from vagparts.com, was only £22 delivered but that was a couple of years ago - but was far cheaper than any alternatives at the time. See here for further details.

Wow! So that's 40+ mpg? I thought superchargers were bad for economy. So what sort of journey is that over? Is that a tank average or a specific journey best? Either way, that seems pretty impressive. Are you sure it's a G60 and not just an 8v? :wink:

You didn't even try did you? ;) Not sure if there's a definitive how to on here, but this thread has a link to the american corrado site which has a guide. I'm sure there are plenty other posts on here too - but that should be a start at least.

High mileage isn't the problem - it's whether or not its been well maintained, and whether the majority of work has already been completed when you buy it - whichever model you choose. Ultimately, It depends how important performance is to you, versus running costs - and that in turn will depend how many miles you're going to do. A word of warning too - I have a VR and struggle to get above low thirties mpg even on a run (typically I average under 30mpg), yet others say 35mpg and more is no problem - and I think the main problem is just how restrained can you be when you drive? Even with fuel prices as they are now and doing 400 miles a week, I just can't drive it economically all the time - I like the noise too much :D I've considered alternative options recently (even public transport :cuckoo: ) but concluded I'd still rather pay the extra fuel costs than take public transport - and if I had a second car (lpg or diesel), then what I'd save in fuel costs would then be spent on insurance and maintenance. So I'll stick with Corrado as a daily driver, and just enjoy it :grin:

Had a bit of luck with this last night - bought a new blowtorch and tried applying heat to the track rod end lock nut again, in the hope that it would free off and save having to change the whole track rod. And it did! :D I think the old blowtorch I'd used originally just didn't get hot enough - possibly not a fine enough/controlled flame. So, for the time being at least, I'm not going to replace the track rods. Thanks for the info everyone though - I guess I'll need to replace the rods at some point so will come in useful then.

Davidwort - from what you've said - it sounds like it's not as simple as in that guide if you had to lower the subframe. Was hoping I wouldn't need to remove anything else - perhaps the garage will have to do the job after all. But on the other hand, from what you've said Dec, it sounds like it is (just) possible. Guess I need to look at mine and see what I think. Yes that track rod tool looks very useful - but not sure they're easily available over here. Which threadlock should be used for this?

Found a guide to doing MKIII Golf/Jetta tie rods here So looks like it can be done with the rack in situ - assuming there's sufficient space on the Corrado to access the inner joint - so I'll probably give this a go, weather permitting.

Had the vr in for MOT on Sunday - and it failed on a corroded brake pipe and both track ends. So, thinking the brake pipe would be the worst job to do (rear one that runs from passenger side to driver side over the exhaust) I did that first. It took me a while (never done brake pipes before) but I got there with my Dads help. So, then moved on to the track rod ends - passenger side one was no problem - really quick to do - BUT driver side one just won't budge. I just can't get the lock nut to turn - even tried using a blow torch (which perhaps just didn't get it hot enough). So I think I'm probably going to have to replace the whole track rod. I've used the search but haven't found a definitive guide on doing this. So, main thing I need to know is can it be done with the steering rack in place or does the rack have to come out like the Bentley manual says? And any special tools required other than 32mm spanner? Is the rod likely to be seized at the inner end too? Is it straightforward - or should I take it to the garage? Appreciate any advice / tips on this. Tony.

Do you mean this one? It doesn't sound too bad, and with the problems listed you could possibly beat the price down to £3k. The lack of interior pictures makes me wonder about the state of the inside though - especially as it states there are some trim bits missing. If you don't do too many miles, then I'd probably go with a corrado (vr6 or not) over a golf - or else you might end up in the same position again and not really enjoy the car after a couple of months - back to square one.

Unfortunately, I think you've little hope of getting your plate back. I'm guessing you don't have any kind of written agreement with the guy about what would happen. Presumably you have his address though - perhaps pay him a visit.

Find the leak! I'm sure there are other posts on here somewhere about tracing leaks in the cl system. Possibly by clamping different cl hoses until the system doesn't run on too long - then you know which part of the system is faulty. If you can get the door open and remove the door card you may be able to see the problem. Obviously if you can't unlock the door with the pin from inside then you're going to have a problem. And I've no idea what to do then, short of destroying the door card.

Can you pull the pin up from the inside? Or does it not work at all? With the central locking running on so long it sounds like an air leak in the CL system - possibly in the drivers door.

Hi. Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your car. I can't speak from direct personal experience on this, but my dad had a similar situation some years back on a polo. It comes down to how much you want to keep that car, and how much hassle / effort you can put up with. I'm assuming that this is a no fault accident, and you're claiming from the bus company (but I know they can be gits to claim from). Anyway, if it's the other insurance that's ultimately paying for this then you can probably argue to have the car repaired as long as it's not ridiculous cost wise. Do you have any quotes for a repair? And have the insurance given you a valuation on the car - could be comparing repair costs against a stupidly low valuation? Could there be less obvious hidden damage? One option could be to buy the car back for next to nothing if it's written off (and in a suitable category) and pay for the repairs yourself. I guess you'd need an engineers report as well before it can go back on the road. I'm sure others will reply soon with their thoughts. Have a look around the forum too, there have been quite a few people who've had the insurance write the cars off (or try to write them off). Good luck!

You'll only see figures that good if you reset the MFA part way through the journey, or perhaps if your journey is mostly down-hill! Those figures just aren't possible - with an 80 mile commute each day, believe me, I've tried! Although I love my vr, if I were choosing again I'd probably look at a 16v (or perhaps even a very late, low mileage 8v - okay they're slow but must be somewhat cheaper to run). Just depends what you want from the car.

Are you sure? Had you finished that sentence? Or should it have read "he likes his dubs crushed" Real shame about this - bad enough being scrapped (which I can understand if it's uneconomical to fix) - but to not salvage anything. Perhaps you could persuade him to like Fords and Vauxhalls instead.

I purchased from GSF not VW - but it's a Bosch - so surely it can't be a different part. I've checked with GSF and according to them it's a one year warranty. Perhaps I should check with Bosch.

The aux water pump on my vr appears to be leaking. There is water around the bit where the metal casing meets the plastic (where the red arrow points in the pic), and water beneath this on the attached hoses and on top of the gearbox, etc. There is no water above this point. So, could the water only have come from the aux water pump, or could it be from elsewhere? If it is that pump, then what could have caused this? The pump was replaced at the end of November 2006, so it's now a month and a half out of warranty - but being a Bosch pump, I would have expected it to last a lot langer than that.