aide

mines a TSR job which is a s/s tubular style, an alternative is 16vG60 off here - i think he ports and polishes the existing manifold and then puts larger diameter downpipes in thus keeping it standard looking with associated better flow to boot, send him a pm or someone who's had it done could advise

apologies for hijacking your thread a bit sambo, but link is here for the astra one - not sure what original astra manifold is like though? http://www.tomstickland.co.uk/astra/mod ... htm#inlet1

glad someone bought this subject up as i'm intending to weld the box section of the upper manifold to the lower section of the manifold, thereby reducing heat gain and shortening the induction tract.. as kev says the gas speed is theoretically key for torque and the longer/ straigter the tract the quicker the gas speed. i've seen an astra 16v with a manifold in similar vain to suggestion above on the web somewhere, and whilst there was only a 1bhp gain the fella reckoned torque curve was flattended/ improved by the mod.... i'm looking to do the mod regardless but won't be this side of christmas :D as its unusual i'll definitely be posting it up

make that a lot of noise :D

haynes reckons you need to use the specific vw tool for adjusting the tension just right, think you need all four wheels sat on deck when your doing it too

yep get a four branch and get shut of your cat as well, pulls better generally - not before MOT time of course :D As flusted said if your timings out it will run hotter - did you stick new tappets in?

sounds well dodge to me.... :roll:

would recommend you call your local Citizens Advice Bureau, they're geared to advising on indiviual rights in situations like this. ....but as stated above definitely tell the police about the accident, like NOW so you can get a crime reference number. small claims courts used to take ages, and are held in whichever locality the defendant is registered at - if he's a dodgy sod he'll eithe be 'of no fixed abode', or handily register his address (and therefore local court) hundreds of miles away from where you live just to make it difficiult - and then its your word against him, unless you got witnesses?

Lives in London - probably an aussie :D tadas - think you'd better rewrite it fella

cheers mate i'll check that number against the ones i got.

ace - thats what i was hoping.

Have had the mole grips on it with a nail through the drill hole and it just shears the nail on both sides - but then nails are pretty soft :D If it comes to me chopping the bolt head off, I was hoping it would lift off if i removed the disc at same time?

I'll give the socket a try - failing that i'll wait until its off the road at the end of the month. Cheers

Decided to change rear pads and discs last night, despite best efforts I managed to grind out the fucking hexi bolt holding the calliper to the plate…. I then blunted 5 drill bits boring a hole through the bolt head which I could then use to lever it undone – this done it still won’t budge - and it’s had the anti seize and heat treatment too :mad: So having bought another few bolts have decided to grind the bolt head off tonight, BUT am worried the actual carrying plate is threaded too?!?!? So if I grind it off plate and caliper will still be held together, am I right or am I missing a trick here :?: Cheers in advance :D

Yeh bloke on ebay sells a few VDO bits and pieces, if its same guy i bought off you can buy with confidence... i have his number too if you can't be bothered waiting for the auction to end?

there's a guide on the CCGB scottish website - basically cut holes between ribs on side of airbox on side away from engine bay and front corner all below panel filter, usually 12 - 14mm holes, and as many as you like. some people remove the snorkel tube as well. i cut about 18 holes, and removed the snorkel, but gotta be honest the sound it made wasn't for me so i put the snorkel back in and taped up the holes - my car felt quicker when i returned the box to normal which i know i'll get slated for. :D ... drill holes gradually and see how you find it, you'll want to reset your mixture after though to be sure you havn't knocked it out.

yeh your right, never know tho :D GBSean I prepared the following when tinkering and reference to Haynes..... mine still ain't idling right though :D Idle Adjustment · Run to normal operating temperature (all electrical inc fan off) · Disconnect crankcase breather · Disconnect red/ black wire spade connector at coil · Adjust idle to 1000K50rpm ISV Testing · ISV should buzz when ignition on, check with ohmmeter · Check temp sender (above water jacket supply) Should be 20degs – 1000ohms, 60degs – 250 ohms, 100degs – 75 ohms) · At idle pinch the hose from the ISV to the metering head, revs should die, if not the ISV is knackered and car idling of the idle screw. · Replace ISV or control unit. Overrun Cut Off Valve · Run to 2500rpm and simultaneously operate throttle valve switch on throttle body, engine should hunt. If not remove throttle switch, voltage should be zero, run to 4000rpm and close throttle, voltage should be indicated at 1400rpm. · Renew control unit behind dash. Diaphragm Pressure Switch · Disconnect connector, ohmmeter reading should be infinity, blip throttle and resistant should drop briefly. Throttle Valve Switch · Remove connector, ohmmeter reading should be zero between 1 & 2, and infinity between 2 & 3. With throttle open readings should be reversed.

Control unit to the ISV? Apparently the control unit is behind dash but never needed to look for it myself, little box with VDO written on it

Yup 3mm allan key, run engine to warm, disconnect crankcase breather and red spade connector at coil - adjust idle to 1000rpm with idle screw. REST the allan key in hole at metering head do not lift or press - anticlockwise weakens. Without analyser not 100% accurate but good enought for quick fix, obviously if cuts out then too weak :D I'd go to garage for the 10mins it takes em.

For the sake of my fingers I'd recommend you do a search in the tuning section - there's loads of threads on the subject, at work at mo so can't find link :D K&N is a start, and an overhaul of the fuel and ignition systems.

I've bought one of the solid mounts off JMR, looks the business and certainly tightens things up front, almost necessity for anyone wishing to prevent fractures in a one piece manifold/ downpipe.

ahem "my opinion only" :wink:

Crikey another 2 litre 8v - thats two in three months i've heard of :D The 8v was invented for woman to do the shopping and there ain't that many about..... I think this should bouy values, shame your mate can't hang onto it - i'd put it a bit higher £4k, but you need to find an enthusiast buyer.

slower off the line than a G as a result of different gearing and weight, but the 16v C's gearing is for top end speed - it's a coupe not a htchback after all! besides a golf is no match in the twisties when running standard suspension.... i'd buy a 1.8, get used to the handling and drive, look after it so you maintain its residual and then get a g60 once you've had a good loook round and saved some cash :D

Rhodri welcome to the forum - if your looking for serious power then you need a transplant..... then you can sell your 2.0 bottom end to me :D