VW_OwneR_85

still haven't connected up the clutch switch or brake switch, although I have installed the clutch switch just not wired up, I think the reason im not feeling this revs "hanging" is because I modified the length of the throttle pedal { my pedal arms longer then stock making movement less sensitive, in theory} to suit as mines on a plate bolted with the servo bolts, although with the vss connected up I have noticed the power/torque does feel slightly down compared to when its not connected, I recon that will change though when the clutch/brake switch is wired in, I think that with the vss connected the ECU is realising its missing the clutch/brake switch, on the plus side my pedal hasn't died once ! so pretty stocked about that...

sun roof seal isn't what keeps the headliner dry its the internal gutters/drains though, I recently found out why my headliner was getting wet by pouring a cup of water into the the sunroof drains and watching where it goes, turns out the actual plastic sunroof tray/gutter was leaking into the sunroof tilt/slide mechanism track and going on to the headliner from there!, didn't see that one coming! easy fix with "sticks like doo doo"

ive used vinegar to clean rust off bolts n nuts before so making a bath for a wheel bearing housing should work fine to, takes awhile but works an absolute treat! take a look at this stuff, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POR15-Silver-Rust-Prevention-Paint-Color-473ml-US-Pint-Preventative-POR-15-/390610052813?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item5af22c66cd

cheers for your thoughts kip, second hand mk3 is a good shout but I went ahead and brought the one in the link before I seen your post , I just have a waiting problem, bugs the hell out of me lol, I figured its going to be ok as they have sold almost 70 of them if you add up the l/h and r/h singles sales + the pair's they sell, I brought new bolts from VW this morning at a total cost of £17.50 stub axle bolts x8 {4 per side} N 908 773 01 {M10X32} washers x8 {4per side} 321 501 119 A brake caliper carrier bolts as mine are slightly rounded x4 {2 per side} N019 912 3

I suspect I have a worn drivers side stub axle, for love nor money I cant get the bearing/disc to settle, the disc/bearing has no real play but seems to be able to move/jump into 2 places, the first place being perfect how it should be with no disc rub, then you grab the wheel give it a little wiggle and then spin it and it rubs like if the disc is bent! , give it another little wiggle and its back to being perfect! but when driven its just a chaffing noise that's p33ing me off! I think because the disc cant settle in one constant spot Im getting this disc rubbing! anyone else had this? , also anyone used these ? don't like the prices of heard of genuine stub axles {£100 + each } but then again I don't like the thought of a cheap one breaking ! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK2-MK3-GTI-VR6-VW-CORRADO-REAR-STUB-AXLE-C355-/190538492900?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c5cfaabe4

i had a mk2 golf with a 16v ABF which had this, basically the manifold was touching the tunnel/bulk head so would vibrate the cabin on idle , I threw it out and replaced it for stock which cleared nicely , may or may not be your problem but worth looking to see what is actually touching

judgeing by the photo the cv doesn't seem to have failed due to being the wrong type cv for the vr just poor quality materials, if the vr was to powerful for that cv it wouldn't cause the cv to break as it did here , it would be the splines or anything before the splines ,i.e the joint itself, it certainly wouldn't be that section that broke, as that's only under pressure from the torque of the nut, the splines is what is holding the weight and torque of the vehicle, only other thing that makes sense is the torque of the nut , {some one mentioned earlier} but then again if the material is utter crap then its going to be weaker then it should be anyway, ive allways known these nuts to be done up FT tight! and iv done a few now FT tight with no problems,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Brake-Hose-VW-Golf-III-Mk3-2-0-GTI-16v-VR6-288mm-Discs-/310407662447?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4845bd0b6f

ah there you go, well done :)

I agree, although the running it into the ground sounds a tad harsh, I like to look at it as keeping it on the roads! , Its what I would of done if I hadn't resprayed mine, I basically just wouldn't care that much about it , the 24v conversion + audi door handles certainly wouldn't of been done!, but idd enjoy it for what it is regardless of paint condition, keep the car on the roads and use it as you had planned too, atleast you can park it anywhere and really not worry about it getting keyed or dinged, if you sold it you would only end up with a car that will probably need money throwing at it + chances are it wont look or feel anywhere near as sweet as a corrado even with some rust scabs, p.s make sure this house a sweet garage or shed ;)

got myself a clutch switch, the exact same as this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Audi-Seat-MK4-Golf-clutch-pedal-switch-1J0-927-189-1J0927189-/271231019665?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+IV&hash=item3f26a0ea91 it looks like it has 4 pins but only the two middles ones are there to use {they must use the same body as the brake switch}, the pins are still numbered 1-4 though, so basically the 2 pins I have are 2 and 3 {not 1 and 2} , im guessing it doesn't matter which pin I put ign live and ecu pin 39 too as its just a switch right?

orange peel effect, you need to spray something like upol's gravitex from a stone chip gun, follow that wet on wet {don't allow it to fully dry} with a 2k highbuild primer, do a test piece first because air pressure and distance has an effect on how it looks if you want to match what is already there.. http://www.hex.co.uk/tds/upol/gravitex.pdf

7.5k!! wow, how long ago was this paint job done? , for 7.5.k they should offer paint warranty for things like that, even though its a different owner its worth looking into if you still have original receipts etc ,

i don't know your situation but a respray changes everything!, it can turn your daily driver fun car into a garage only weekend toy, im glad i got into body n paint as a hobby but its expensive even for diy, sundries and materials can easily cost over £300 for a part respray, so if a bodyshop wants a quarter of the price up front then that's fair enough imo, rent, labour for staff ,materials etc doesn't pay itself, if it was me i would focus on the house as that's a permanent thing that we all need, but i would also stop the rust from developing any further, grind/sand it back to clean metal, buy some automotive 2k epoxy primer and mix it up and brush it on, you could do that diy at minimal cost and then use colour coded rattle cans to finish it off to hide primer colour in them areas , wouldn't look great but you would have slowed the rust right down and would allow you to focus on the house with knowing your car isn't rotting away, you also need to think about the car after a respray , you wont want to see your shiney paint out side not to mention is it kept on the street? can it get vandalised? its not good spending 2-3k on a paint job only to be worrying most of the time with where its parked and potentially getting keyed, as much as i like shiney paint it is over rated! the way the car starts, drives and stops is by far the most important things, not to mention if you do splash out for a respray then you don't have much of a choice but to keep the car and carry on feeding money into it, as if you did sell it then you wouldn't see a penny back from the respray which in turn means why did you bother in the first place, i know the above kinda sounds like im against the idea of a re spray im not at all, if you can afford it and it wont effect your life then do it, and yea with the amount that you require being done go for a full respray so the colour is 100% on each panel, im sure the bodyshops will advise you on this also, also at the time when they mix up your colour "basecoat" have them mix up a couple of litres more then needed so you can take with you and keep, just incase some thing happens further down the road,

yes jim its applicable here, I brought a genuine updated one from ebay... heres a link to the one I brought, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ECU-relay-109-GENUINE-part-1J0-906-381A-VW-AUDI-SEAT-SKODA-/251284717042?ViewItem=&item=251284717042&nma=true&si=KXZYp3C0IoKECQAxssqgWDnhVlA%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

are you loosing coolant? idd have a good mooch around the hose's and expansion tank for any signs of leaks, idd be thinking the matrix might have a small leak/weep , if it was me and I didn't know the history of the matrix I would like you say , by pass the matrix until I could be bothered with fitting a new one at a later date..

cheers dude, I tried looking in vcds this after noon but the version I have doesn't allow me to do so :(

thanks for the confirmation on that, the only reason I was suspecting the vss was to blame with my pedal fault was because of his going dead.. are you saying that when you call out wiring colours that you should say the main colour first? followed by the thinner colour? I had no idea , to me blue/white is white/blue , I allways check where the wire actually goes, to confirm its the right one, never once relied on colour alone.. ah right united motorsports might of allowed for the brake switch, ill check in vcds with what taks has written {thanks btw} and see what it says, im assumeing wiring in the brake and clutch switch is fairly straight forward, install switchs to pedal box , wire the pins to ecu as mentioned and hook up certain pins to earth and job done ?

when I scan my car I switch ign on and wait for about 30 seconds or until the throttle body beep noise stops and then select mk4 golf from the list and scan , otherwise it comes up with the same as you "cannot communicate" , I also cannot select scan individual moduls i.e "engine" straight off the bat, otherwise it says cannot communicate, I allways have to select mk4 golf and scan through the lot and at the end of the scan I can then go into individual modules and select engine and only then will it scan just the engine,

no not that I know of, like I say the engines running sweat , but due to our roads in Guernsey I cannot drive it like I stole it , I value my license , our max limit sadly is 35mph!! so I cant really give it a proper drive but the engine pulls very strong from 1st 2nd and 3rd!! and gives me no indication that anything else is wrong, I will check in vcds but not really sure what im looking for , does the engine need to be running ? so basically I might have to hook up a mk4 clutch switch and mk4 brake switch and wire them as above? also if there was a problem with the lack of either clutch or brake switch wouldn't it log faults for these?

yea that's cool , my BDE doesn't have any of that wired up though, do you need the brake switch etc wired in on the 3.2's? p.s its the 3rd day running with my re routed pedal wires and re connected vss signal to w-1 and all is 100% ;)

yep very steep! clearly out to make profit on the off chance that some one is willing to pay them prices...

crazy prices http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Revell-Volkswagen-Corrado-Rallye-1-24-Mint-Boxed-/221245756607?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item33834654bf http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Revell-Volkswagen-Corrado-G60-1-24-Sealed-Parts-/221245769071?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item338346856f http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Revell-Volkswagen-Corrado-Zender-Cabriolet-1-24-Factory-Sealed-/221245760205?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item33834662cd

its just teething problems though, sadly no conversion like this will ever be plug n play even if the harness does plug straight in to the fusebox, theres allways going to be something to sort out, once I had my conversion up and running I was able to scan the ecu which allowed me to sort out other faults, have you scanned the ecu for logged faults? if not then buy vcds cable and program off ebay, its cheap as chips!! this is something you deffo need when doing this, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-GROUP-USB-COM-PORT-OBD2-II-KKL-ECU-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-LEAD-WORK-VCDS-LITE-409-/181161614441?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a2e12dc69 with regards to the wire , im 99.9% sure the blue/white wire which 20vtvw cut is infact the blue/white pedal wire and not the blue/white vehicle speed signal wire which he intended to take to the fusebox plug W-1 to remove the vss rev limit { vss wire to w-1 does work 100%} , easy mistake to make as there directly inline with each other, hence why his pedal died as soon as he cut it, to confirm this is true , unplug the bigger ecu plug and remove the black plastic cover, it might have a zip tie around it, once you can see all the wires make sure you have the plug the right way up, the wires should be going out towards the left you can also see the pin out numbers in the corners of plug , there very small! use this picture to confirm by tracing the cut wire back to the plug, just make sure its the right way around and use the numbers on the plug to confirm the rows are correct! once you have confirmed this, take the vss wire and run it to your fusebox plug W-1 or like others have and splice it to the speed sender off the gearbox or keep it out labled , in the main harness this wire wont go anywhere hence why your rev limited at 5.5k every conversion has this wire to deal with, if not then most get remapped and also sorts that fault out , but whats easier connecting a wire up or getting a remap? I don't intend to get a remap so I just connect the wire up , keep at it m8, im so happy with my 24v ! theres no way I would ever think about swapping back, im sure that once you get all the little niggley faults sorted and running as it should then your be happy...

where exactly have you reconnected this wire to? back to the same wire that 20vtvw originally snipped? also pretty sure the 2.8 24v don't have safe mode..