VW_OwneR_85

gutted for you ! i would be going mental! im lucky enough to have a shed so i dont have to worry about my car being left out, i know what its like though, is there anywhere you can knock up a lean too ? wouldnt cost much some 2x3" and some ply , or maybe rent a shed close by? , in the pic above on the left hand side you can build an awesome little lean too in the corner,

have you got a pic of the bubbles?

haha i guess we cant have it all!! good job glad you sussed it out.

Bit of an update - so last year i ran my car on temp insurance to make sure it was ok before storeing it for the winter, and now the time has come to re insure it, this time iv declared the engine swap and to my surpirse the insurance company dont want anything extra for it! they just require a garage report to make sure its safe which is fair enough, drove it for the first time in ages the other day and everythings working as it should although im still not happy with how soft the brake pedal feels after the brake line replacement although this could be down to me and thinking the pedal was stiffer then it actualy was as iv driven different cars since, just have to bleed it some more to be sure , also fitted mk3 golf black front leather seats but im not sold on them as they do sit higher up and completly changes the way the car feels so i'll probably be swapping back to the cloth ones, pics to follow soon :)

good post!! , tbh doesnt look much different to the proffesional press i used when i did mine, And when you consider the costs of tools like this not to mention your time + the time when you have to leave your car at a garage at the mercy of a mechanic, the tools normaly pay for themselfs on the first go,

Atleast you have a nice base car to start from and judgeing by the sale price i saw on the ebay advert you got a nice deal out of it, how do you sleep at night?! shame on you ! :)

hahah

right! think i can rule out the master cylinder seals as the pedals realy firm when ign off and doesnt loose any travel if held down , i have bled some more fluid useing a sealey pressure bleeder, works an absolute treat!! imo better then the vacum bleeder as that just sucked in air from the bleed nipple threads aswell as fluid from the system, abit of air came out from the front right caliper but i ran out of fluid so i cant finish it off this evening :( but the abs pump no longer makes that noise upon start up! so i think i just need to bleeed more through the fronts :) cheers

haha would be a good idea ;) , what i did was peel all the loom tape back { probabaly for the 4th time!!} and traced it back, it went to a blob of glue holding the wires together! guys iv just started the ball rolling on declareing my engine swap, to my surprise there not actualy wanting anymore money for it! but they do require a garage report for safety which is fair enough , now am i right in saying the only things which need to checked out are the three mountings , bay fuel lines and maybe the gearbox flange to driveshaft bolts?

its wired to G2/4 , thats a fused ign live for engine electrics, its probabaly not your problem then seeing as you have all that working, mine was practicly dead with out that wire, maybe because mines a bde? worth a looksy though,

tbh dude it could of been pin 21 that skrewed me cant quite remember 100% if it was 62 or 21 , i know before that i couldnt get fuel and i couldnt scan the ecu either! but you can scan the ecu right?, when i powerd it up the throttle body started buzzing and it started up straight away!! oh where is the engine number located? cant seem to find the blady thing, edit: just looked through my old emails regarding the wireing and it was pin 21 that gave me the problems, {black wire } apparently none of the BDE wireing diagrams shown anything for this which is why the guy didnt do anything with it, so lucky i found that pic or i would of been in a wireing nightmare all by myself.

interesting maybe power pin 21 up and see if it makes a difference?

this pic saved my butt when doing my 2.8 BDE , pin 62 had no power ,

i like your thinking!! blady good idea that, i drove it down the road with caution and it does stop with only one push needing to stop, if fluid was to pass the seals you would need to pump the pedal several times right? so maybe i just need to bleed it some more although i think i have enough , also i have a sealey vacum bleeder but its letting in air at the nipples im guessing thread tape is the only solution to fix this? thanks very much p.s the system was bled useing pedal method with caution,

is there a way to know 100% that the master cylinder seals are gone? my brake system was dry as i re newed the rear brake pipes, i have pure clean air free fluid at all bleed points , 2 on the pump , 1 on the master cyclinder and at all four wheels, yet the pedal is spongey as hell! also abs pump seems to be makeing an unusual noise upon start up which it didnt do before so im thinking maybe theres still air trpped inside? but if theres pure air free fluid at the bleed skrews what more can i do? cheers.

i had lenso bsx on my old mk2, tbh they were actualy prety damn good! staggerd 8 n 9's , also from what i saw the bolts were actualy threaded so they could be replaced with something a little different..

have you dried out the sound deadening under the carpet since sealing this up? they soak up alot of water!

looking nice bud, like your smoothing ;)

the reason its not tight tight is because the windscreen was put in place abit further down in the channel when fitted , they could of done with bringing the screen up 1-2mm extra , the higher up the windscreen is the tighter fitting that seal will be, but you run the risk of it being too tight..

the reason idd use wax oil under the tray is becuase you can spray it with a long flexy hose and it penetrates into all the nooks and crannys that you cant actualy get to, it will also neutralise current rust , from what iv read about por 15 its good to use on metal thats been cleaned up from rust and forms a very hard durable coating so its perfect for painting the top of the battery tray but if you still have rust and moisture under the por15 then its still going to carry on rusting under it, i guess everything has its pros and cons,

my advice is remove the front end {not even a 30min job} and cut the rott back sqaure in a nice rectangle shape with a cutting disc on a dremel, and cut a peice out from an old door or bonnet to put in its place maybe try and shape it if it needs it , weld it up and wax oil the crap out of the back side of it, you could buy a cheap welder , before you say " i cant weld" if you can draw then you can weld ,its just like dot to dot or if you want to spend the extra money and time on finding a genuine tray then go ahead but if it was me i idd rather splash out the funds on something that will get noticed/make a difference..

[quote name= I reckon a carbon one will make the boot opening time around 4000% faster![/quote] lol you might even be able to wing footballs from the spoiler

i remember seeing how to fix a sratched screen from one of the "how to paint your car " dvds from ebay, useing exactly the same method and products as removeing scratchs from paint, they purposely scored the glass to reinact years worth of wear from a worn wiper blade , basicly wetsanded the sratch out with 2000 grit and then used cutting compound and a machine buffer to bring it back up to clear clean glass, seems simple enough but i guess it all depends how deep the scratch is, youtube search it ,

honeslty have ago at the wireing yourself especialy with all the guides available just get immo removed, rub jonny is worth the wait though and hes very very helpful, lay the looms out infront of you on a clean floor and it wont seem so scary, http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?205887-OEM-management-wiring-1-8T-gt-Mk2-harness-install-FAQ

looks very nice on there, although i would of started the bid at £2500 just to put off potential time wasters..Hope you get what you want for it.