VW_OwneR_85

coil pack on the side of a 24v 2.8 in the uk is normaly an AUE , if it has individual coils on spark plugs its more then likely BDE , Theres a reason why there different , if your doing a conversion get the major parts from the same code, i.e wireing and ecu.

they aint 42 anymore bud, thats the original et of the standard steel before banding, wish i had the moneys right now though, idd have them straight off you!

immo defeat will cost £100 here in the uk from united motorsports +that will get you immisions stuff switched off aswell , a second hand 4mo ecu can be had for around £60 + , i got mine for £75 posted via ebay.co.uk , so i guess it all comes down to this remap,

yea i was thinking about that, just dont have the spare cash to buy a pair of wheels to complete the set although it would actualy be a good investment!

cheers dude :)

damn forgot to say , that mine were on the rear only! 9j et15 have no chance with fitting on the front of a vr6 ,

yes m8 but its all in the prep and how far your willing to go, a pro finish is still diy at the end of the day, all red and smoked if you want to remove the letters take care , as i recently did some for a friend but to save labour time he removed the letters himself but didnt level them properly as he just sanded the complete area and as a result where there was a word or symbol theres now nasty low spots! , these reflect as dents when the clear goes on

Would anybody be interested in a pair of 5x100 16x9 ET 15 brobet A's ? you would need to source a pair of 7.5's for the front to complete the set but these can be found on ebay.de in singles for not very much, 7.5 in 5x100 is hard to come by but its not hard to have the borbet A re-drilled to 5x100 , cost me £70 localy to have this done, i basicly came across a complete set of 9's and had to buy 7.5 for the front { had them re drilled} so i have two spare 9's that are doing nothing, i would like £100 for them and what ever it costs to post them, so if you were willing to get a pair from ebay.de and get them re drilled you could have the perfect front and rear borbets for the vr6 for around £350!! pm me if your interested and ill get a postage quote, heres how the vr6 sits up front with 7.5 et 30 {was 4x108 redrilled to 5x100} with 15mm hubcentric spacer to clear the caliper , and the 9" et 15 on the rears,

borbet A 9j with et 15 fit on fine on mine with 205 /45 tyre , my arch has been sligtly rolled though, i actualy have a spare pair of borbet A's 5x100 16x9 that i no longer need, that im willing to sell , you would have to buy 7.5's for the front which can be found on ebay.de in singles to make the complete set, i basicly came across a complete set of 9's localy for next to nothing and had to buy two 7.5's for the front so iv got two 9's left over doing nothing. im going to advertise them in the forsale section sometime soon, pm me if you want them .

i have a bosch 5pin maf from a 2.8 v6 4motion , i was told there the same as r32, part number is 07C 906 461 , postage is gona be a killer and it'll be just first class post not express courier, idd want £45.00 for it and plus what ever they charge for post. cheers

just thought, i have a next to brand new tensioner on my engine {few months old} that im willing to sell as i recently done an engine conversion so no longer needed , if you want pics i can remove it tomo and post them up here so you can have a butchers , £48 delivered , think it cost me £80 for an extra £15 you can have the non aircon belt {conti}aswell which is also not very old.

yea sounds like the battery doesnt have enough go go juice, if you got a spare car with a battery you know for a fact works and charges then swap batterys over. it would be the first thing idd do before takeing his word on it and digging myself into an electrical nightmare.

on the 4mo tensioner to release the tension you use a spanner at the pully end and lift up and at the same time remove the belt, im sure this method can be used on the 12v tensioner but never tryed it,

they LOOK AMAZING!! i'll tell you what, for this one time special offer i will allow you to post them to me! for free! how does that sound?!

£120 seems like a crazy price to pay for an ecu thats been fiddled with , seeing as you have only one post it might work in your favour to post a pic of said ecu along with receipts of work carried out. "Never been near the corrado since it has came back from the company who fixed the ECU". is this to protect you if the ecu doesnt work? , no garuntes huh.

yo, just go to b&q and get some strip lights that you like , something like the 6ft long ones, get an old extention lead or some cable thats of simialr size and a plug, then link the strip lights together , earth , neutral and live and then put a plug on the end and plug it into a socket , thats the easiest way to do it,

yea the brakes on my audi a3 1.6 have a more wooden feel and bites very early, the brakes on my corrado have allways felt like your pushing down on a hard sponge but they do work, wouldnt mind upgradeing to mk4 stuff myself but realy cba.

havent read through all 8 pages but im assumeing this jerk isnt fixed? , well me and a m8 picked up an audi a4 realy cheap which we had the intention of sorting out a few issuse and selling on for profitt, one of its problems was a suspected clutch problem hence why it was going cheap, on a test drive we thought it was a motor/gearbox mount as on acceleration it juddered like if the engine was rocking, turned out to be a realy badly worn CV joint,

sound no worrys, does any of the 3 you have look like they would work with mine? if so which part number ? 3 x 022 971 921 B 3 x 022 971 921 C cheers...

nope but you cant in pro booth either, sure it helps alot having a paint booth but theres allways going to be dust to some extent, the way to remove dust nibs on your clearcoat is wetsanding with 1500 + and buffing with compound to remove the fine scratchs to bring it back to gloss,but you need to have enough clear on your work to allow for aggressive wetsanding and buffing otherwise you could sand through to the basecoat, dust in the primer stage doesnt realy matter as that gets flatted right back to atleast 600grit anyway. dust in the basecoat is a pita!! as your under a time restraint to get the clear down {for chemical adhesion of the clear to basecoat} and sanding dust nibs out of basecoat means you have to blow over and blend that area that was sanded with more base before you put the clear down otherwise the sanded area will stick out like a saw thumb once you put clear over, what i do , is lay the basedown with however many coats it takes to get full coverage , usualy something like 3-4 coats waiting 15minutes inbetween to allow the solvents to flash off, then wait almost an hour for it to dry then assess the work , find the realy bad dust nibs and remove them with 600 grit untill there gone then blow over all the areas that i sanded then wait another 30mins before useing a tac cloth to remove any dust thats settled then its time for clear, in a diy enviroment you just have to work alot harder!!!

i'll have a looksy, i know my coils sit at different angles and the height is determined by the height of the coil as i recently replaced a none vag coil for an oem coil and it sits slightly lower ,they sit prety much level but give or take 5mm or so , ill get a photo for this evening and ill let you decide but im fairly certain there be ok, had a good look, they all seem to be identical :( so with the red ones, theres three clips which are angled? all the black ones seem to have a slight angle but nothing major

16's with 45 tyre , looks perfect! and drives good too :)

yea im down with a swap, i have another spare engine loom with those black clips on ready to remove, pm me your address and i might be able to get them posted in the next couple of days, no rush for you though, Thanks ...

also any questions about paint you could post them up here on edition in the paint section, theres a few pro uk painters which will reply with in 24hrs http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?showforum=120

i can totaly understand where craigowl is comming from, but i like doing this sort of thing and i couldnt stand back and let my car turn into a rust bucket so for me it was just investing in future proofing my car when it came down to bodywork, each to there own, i now feel confident with paint and body and think i could tackle most body related things on my car, like audi door handles, theres loads of people that would love this sort of thing but dont want to pay the price to get it done, also yea sure it takes alot of time in the prep stage but you will soon learn that when its done , its done so aslong as you do it right the first time you never have to touch it again, from this , to this this kind of thing would of easily cost over £1000