VW_OwneR_85

has anyone done this? the benefits would be haveing a sealed bearing the same as the vr's front over the tapered roller bearing, i would imagine you would need three bits , carrier http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-BORA-MK4-GOLF-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-Caliper-Carrier-/140767359625?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20c6637289 stub axle http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-Mk4-Bora-Drivers-Side-Rear-Hub-Stub-Axle-With-Good-Bearings-AUDI-SEAT-/320916911328?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab82374e0 and a new disc to match the hub, havent got a clue how the mk4 stub axle lines up on the corrado , but i think its somthing i might look into

looks amazing!

awesome work man, gave me motivation when i was doing my bodywork, still cant belive you were only 16 at the time,

seeing as you have changed the calipers the brake pads might just need to wear flat to your discs, does the pedal feel abit more spongey then normal? if all the air has been bled out then give the pads a chance to wear abit, i had this when i replaced my calipers for mk4 ones, the brakes at first were terrible!! but it wasnt long before they were working properly, and yea sort that rust out sooner rather then later , if its leaking then its bad and the more dammage its gona do to places that cannot be reached even if you gota cut the rott out and treat it and then fill it, its better then leaving it open for more rott

may or may not be your problem but idd give the pads a chance to wear in, { as in wear flat to the disc} , when i upgraded to mk4 rear calipers my brakes were shocking!! so bad that that i bled the brakes like 4 times! it realy was just a case of letting them wear in,

looking very nice! keep it up

hyundai santa faie {faye?}

i dont pay much rent for my shed and it has many uses other then to store a car, if i was you i would consider finding somewhere close by that you can rent, the location needs to be prety good otherwise your be worried about break ins, maybe you could go halfs with rent with someone you know?

jack the backend up and spin the wheels by hand, any noticeable problems should become apparent

still need to source an oil sump , seems like some of the yanks on vortex use the steel 12v sump , apparentley it holds less oil and you need to make a cover for the flywheel, so im considering useing a 12v one but not sure about the oil level sender? does the ecu need it? or would it be fine with out it?

have you tryed these guys? they break alot of there stuff on ebay aswell, this is where i got my engine loom from , http://www.stevensvwspares.com

hahaha ;) thanks once again

cool cheers for that info, oh what size socket do you need for the spark plugs?

ok cool but wont i need the valve for variable inlet?

started preping my 2.8 today, removed clutch n fly wheel, removed SAI valve? and made a blank plate out of aluminium, its looking rather cool ;) . now what is this box all about has loads of vacum hoses going to it ? can this just be removed and put back how the 12v is? and those 2 plug connections what are they for? cheers { iv had the sai removed from the ecu via united motorsports }

no worrys mat all sorted, got the old core plug out today, ended up useing an off cut of scaffold tubeing and a threaded stud welded to the tube on the core plug and basicly pulled it out,

im 80% sure the differance between min/max is 1 litre,

it is a pita job as its realy fiddley and space is limited, it was one of the first jobs i had to do on mine, just make sure you get the seals seated correctley before tightening it back down,

yes m8 that feeling "in over your head" i know it, been there done that, but how you gota look at is , you cant make it any worse, it was already like that under the rust scabs, just take your time with the filler useing various shaped blocks to get it all perfect, it will take hours!! and i mean hours! but that is whats going to make it invisible, here check out some of my bodywork ,http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?56705-My-vr6-Audi-door-handle/page3&highlight=audi+door+handles before this iv never realy used a welder and after all that i feel realy confident with one,confident enough to chop my doors up, i guess its like learning to write, at first your abit cock handed, so if you have the time and you want to do it then do it! also dont use electrical tape for bodywork, it sometimes leaves a nasty glue behind, also lift the tape up on the inside edge and fold it over so when the paint hits it, it creates a soft tapered edge in the paint, rather then a step/lip which needs more sanding to get rid of, if you get me? keep it up!

yea dude that would be most helpful, ill pay what its worth , only need the one, ill pm you my address,

by the looks of it, it will only be a small area that would get touched up anyway, might aswell slow it down and treat it, deffo use that epoxy primer on it,

yo my friend at the dealers doesnt recognise that number, it isnt this number though 036 103 133 A ? cheers

i brought an infra red motion sensor alarm for my shed last year and it cost like £10.00! it takes AA batterys and is prety damn loud! works off a remote fob, you could keep it in your glove box or mount it under the dash or hide it somewhere in the car so if anybody opens the door it'll go off, would probably scare off most intruders, prety much the same as this, cant belive there so cheap!!! they work realy well http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WIRELESS-PIR-MOTION-SENSOR-ALARM-2-REMOTE-CONTROLS-SHED-HOME-GARAGE-CARAVAN-/160792409199?pt=UK_Burglar_Alarms&hash=item256ff9746f

mines has no glue or anything sticking it, as it moulds around the whole frame and keeps its shape, wouldnt worry about it,

yep thats had it, best way to attack it would be to remove the filler cap assembley and go at it with a wire wheel on a grinder {also use flap discs and grinding discs} and a dremel for tight spots just get it all back to bare metal , but i garuntee you there will be holes, rust is allways worse then it looks, but look on the bright side! its fixable, i dont know how you are with tools but you can do it diy, your just need , time, grinder,petrol filler cap repair section, mig welder cups of tea and some balls. get that rust on the back end ground out ASAP and put this stuff on it, http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=501025&p_n=501025 then touch up with some colour coded touch up paint, its better then leaving it to rot, the petrol filler cap area needs cutting and welding for sure so dont worry about that now, idd concentrate on saveing the back end otherwise in a few months that will need cutting out and welding, worst case scenario is , you grind out all the rust and you get a shed load of holes, once rust is ground out treat the areas with that stuff ^ then filler the lot smooth it all out and touch up, atleast you have slowed down the rust, and it seems most of the area would be hidden by the petrol flap anyway,