rickdonald

I got a pair of those from Micks Garage. They seem spot on, they don't need the roof gutters, they just clamp around the front door frame and also above the rear windows, where the markings are. Good fit, and very sturdy. Just have to be careful fitting them and removing them not to scratch the paint. I would recommend.

Yeah, I have noticed a significant increase in gearbox whine too, but compared with the vibration, I can put up with it. To be honest, I thought the box or diff was on its way out anyway before I fitted the mounts, as there is a huge amount of backlash, so it will probably just finish it off. So that may force me to go down the CTN box route a little sooner than planned.

Yeah, the only reason that I went for the VT mounts was due to the stainless 4 branch manifold I was going to fit. I read a lot of posts saying you needed to stiffen up the mounts (most people fitting a solid front mount) to prevent cracking the manifold. Whether or not its really needed, I don't know, but read a few reviews of guys that had fitted the VT mounts and had no complaints over any excess vibration. I'm going to have a play around at weekend with the OE gearbox mount, and then the OE rear engine mount, see if I can find a good compromise. With the amount of messing I have done in the last few days, I'm getting pretty good at accessing the bolts and maneuvering the mounts to get them out!

I know what you mean, they do seem to soften up a bit after you have been driving. Had a look at the gearbox mount last night to see if I had fitted it wrong, but all seems fine. Will suck it and see for a while, planning on fitting a non-adjustable steering column at weekend anyway, so at least that should help with the vibration on the column and cowling! cheers for the response!

Its morally wrong! That's why I judge. I don't care what happened, or what the episode of events were "you just don't f*ck with another mans vehicle".

Got mine from this place http://www.adrad.co.uk/ They used to do both "standard" and "hot climate" (a longer one), mine was the longer one and was a Hella unit. Decent price too.

haha, thats a good attitude. "it'll be covered on insurance"............ so it doesn't really matter??? what worries me more is that he is pushing a pram, so it means he is going to have to impart "wisdom" at some point!

Hi all! I spent my Sunday replacing the engine mounts on my G60 in preparation for fitting a 4-branch stainless manifold. I went with the Vibra-Technics pack from C&R Enterprises, all fast-road as opposed to competition (to avoid them being "too" stiff). After fitting it feels like the engine is bolted to the firewall, at idle the steering wheel vibrates and the windows rattle like crazy when they are down. Off idle it smooth’s out a bit, but still get a fair amount of vibration through the steering wheel and the pedals, up to about 4K where it really peaks, then at higher RPM it settles down again. My first thought was perhaps I twisted one of the mounts while jacking the engine to get the other mounts in, then I bolted it up while it was still twisted and under tension. So last night I loosened all the bolts, revved the engine a little and shook it about, just to try and get it to settle properly. Then tightened them all up in the order the Bently manual says (rear first, then gear-box, then front), but no real difference! If I’m honest I was expecting a similar feeling to a set of Jay’s poly engine mount inserts I fitted to my old VR6. I know the VR is a much smoother engine, and the poly inserts were not much stiffer than the OEM rubber, but I think the difference between the standard G60 mounts and these VT mounts is crazy! Any ideas whether it is just the fact I have replaced all 3 mounts, and that it’s to be expected? Or if I have done something wrong? The mounts all seemed to go in ok, the only issue I had was needing to remove the rear engine mount bracket front he block in order to get enough room to get the engine out. But it all went back in fine and lined up ok. Just looking for other peoples experience & opinions, I was under the impression that there would be a little more vibration but nowhere near this much. It’s like going on one of them fun-fair (uncle fester) rides when you hit 4k!

Thought I'd take a crack at answering some of these. I'm no expert, I have owned my G60 for a little over 8 months, but hopefully can help a little. 1. Yep, just take it easy till the oil warms up, then you should be good. I wouldn't worry about idling it too much when you come to stop as its not going to get anywhere near as hot as a turbo. The supercharger is belt driven rather than exhaust gasses like a turbo. The reason you need to idle a turbo engine is because the exhaust gasses driving the turbo can really heat it up when you hammer it. So you idle it for a few mins before you turn the engine off just to cool the turbo down a little. 2. It wont do your car any harm, if anything it will improve the flow of the exhaust and probably give you a little more BHP. However the emission may not meet requirements. I'm not familiar with the legislation up there in Finland, but in the UK, if the car was registered before about 1992, then you didnt need a Catalytic converter, however after 1992 it became required, and the emission limits where decreased. 3. Again, no it should have any real bad effects, just noise, and maybe a small risk of exhaust fumes entering the car when you are stationary. Other than that it should be ok till you get chance to fix it. I actually have a similar problem where I have a leak in between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter! 4. The G-lader needs servicing every 45,000 miles or so if it is running a standard 78mm pulley. If it has a smaller pulley on it, it means its spun faster, producing more boost, but also reducing the service intervals. See this link for more info: http://www.matey-matey.com/g60-rebuild-article.shtml 5. If the car has recently been serviced then I wouldn't worry too much on that side of things, especially if its running well. other things to take note of are the coolant temperature sensors, if they aren't good then they can cause running issues. Also there is a vacuum hose running from the back of the inlet manifold to the ecu (under the windscreen by the wiper mechanism) this hose needs to be in good condition and EXACTLY 1m long. If its damaged or the wrong length, then the ECU compensates and can affect running. Also as well as engine related stuff, I would check the brake are all in good condition and the suspension looks good too (no leaks). Finally bodywork! I have had 3 Corrado's so far, and each of them had issues with rust around the petrol filler neck, and the windscreen. If you catch it early, then it's much easier and cheaper to fix! Just have a general look around the car, but pay attention to around the windscreen trim and the filler neck for any bubbling paintwork. 6. The coilovers being hard should cause too many issues generally, you will probably go through top-mounts a lot quicker though, and also the interior will probably rattle a bit! as for the camber, the fronts can be adjusted back to standard if you want, just by adjusting the mounting of the front struts to the knuckles. However I would get a wheel alignment specialist to do it, as it can be a real pain! also changing the camber will then go on to affect the toe. For the rear wheels, if the previous owner has added camber plates between the beam and the stub axles these can also be removed if you want. It wont have much affect on the wear of anything other than the tires may wear a little quicker on the inside (as they are the main place for contact with the road). Hope this helps a bit!

Hows the brake fluid level? When I had my old Valver I had trouble with loads of white smoke pouring out of the end of the exhaust (but only occasionally). Turned out to be brake fluid , that was leaking out from the master cylinder.....into the booster....then every now and again would get sucked from the vacuum into the manifold. maybe you have a leak onto the top of the exhaust manifold?

I had the same on my old VR and ended up trying to epoxy it back together as I couldn't find another. When I bought my G60 it had the K&N filters on the crank breather and the ISV, and the engine bay was covered in oil! I mean COVERED! It was good because it meant nothing under my bonnet was rusty.......but not so nice when you needed to do work on it. I ended up re-instating all the standard pipework and spent about a week de-greasing and pressure washing the engine, gearbox, firewall, heat shields and all the wiring looms. I'm not sure how similar it would be on the VR, wouldn't imagine its too bad as long as you clean it regularly.

I bought one of the ones of eBay a few years back and had the same problems as you say with fine scratching. Also when i got up to motorway speeds sometimes it would "inflate" slightly and puff up. When I got my recent G60 it actually came with another bonnet bra, but this one feels a lot more substantial. Its got a lot more weight to it, like its been made out of much thicker material, and also feels softer on the inside and on the upper seam where they seem to rub on the bonnet. I have used it a good number of times while driving back to my parents (250 miles) and it leaves no marks at all, much better than the one from eBay. I can't remember there being any markings on it (brand etc) but will have a nosey round tonight see if I can see anything.

I'd have a look at the coil-pack as well(if its a coil pack version). I went through two when I had my VR, I think the heat used to kill the plastic and eventually it would break down enough and you could see the arcing.

Also as for the heater matrix.....as I have just had the same thing with mine! The matrix itself looked spotless when I took it out, and wasn't bypassed either. But as you say still never really produced any hot air. In the end I took the coolant pipes off both going to and from the matrix, then stuck the hosepipe down there to flush it out. The matrix apparently never really sees much pressure of flow so can have a lot of cr*p sat in the bottom of it. I stuck the hose in there and the water coming out the other end was black. I flushed it back and forward a few times then plumbed it back in. Seems to be a lot better now. However I would turn the hose on "too much", or else you may risk blowing the matrix, but a decent flow should be fine.

Mine does exactly the same, has had a new rad, new water pump, cleaned out the heater matrix and new temp sensors (although not VW genuine ones). sits at about 90 as long as im moving, but strays up to almost 110 in heavy traffic. I hear that the genuine VAG temperature sensors can make a world of difference to your readings, but am yet to find out (next on my list of things to do). I spoke to a couple of guys at work in the power-train department, as like you, I expected the gauge to sit at 90 / middle of the gauge like most modern cars. The feedback I got was most modern cars have a filter on the signal, i.e. not to have the gauge jumping around all over the place and to cause panic. I guess at the time the Corrado was made it was seen more important to show the driver the actual temperature rather than "sugar coat it". That said I would still follow the guide on here and check your fan controller and switches are working ok. Have a search and it should pop up.

The larger rad gives a bigger surface area so more chance for the heat to be transferred from the coolant to the surroundings. my thermostat was constantly open once the car had warmed up and in traffic the coolant climbed to above 110. The waterpump and fan are good as I checked them all, so thought the best thing (since I needed a new rad anyway) would be to spend a little more and get the larger one. It has abit, the temperatures are a lot more solid around 90, but after long enough in traffic it does start to climb up past 105 still. But it less of a worry than 110 or above.

There was an option to fit a larger one as well though (742mm or something like that) for hot climate applications or "towing". I stuck one on instead to replace my knackered 430mm, as I didn't like how hot the coolant was getting in traffic. Mind you in all honesty it hasn't really helped much!

Top company, I ordered one of the larger ones (742mm) for my G60, its a Hella unit and arrived the next day. Would definitely recommend.

I had a VR6 a year ago, and it was very refined, really nice to drive, engine was so smooth, plenty of power but lazy, I could definitely notice the extra weight (owning a 16v before). Now I have just bought a G60, and it feels a lot more rough and ready, the engine sounds no where near as good (maybe personal preference), but feels a lot more nimble in the corners. At the moment, if I'm honest, I think I'd go back to the VR if I could. But maybe that's because I haven't driven the G60 enough yet!

Sorry mate, all gone now. I did reply to you post the other week, and sent you a pm as well. Sorry!

Nope, the sale fell through, so still have them all. I did actually PM you last week, not sure if you recieved it.

Hi, Yes I still have both the headlights and the rear lights. Although I currently have someone inquiring about the front lights, although the address I have been given for shipping doesn't seem to exist.... will keep you posted on how it goes.

Bump. Still got headlights and rear lights.

Cheers mate! Very helpful.

Sure we could work something out mate. Basically in between houses in Dunmow and Wickford at the moment. But will be traveling up north on 19th to see family (up M11, across A14 then up M6). So could work something out either on the Friday 19th evening, or if not on the Tuesday 23rd when I'm heading back. Where about a are you?