steveo29
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Everything posted by steveo29
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the cables you need to worry about are the battery to starter, starter to alternator cable, and the earth cable goes from battery to the inner wing then to gearbox ive heard of people running a extra earth cable from the alt housing to the block too
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if its got any numbers on it then ask bilal at sns or gwerks
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tested mine in the week and its 13.9 at idle with the lamps and hrw on.....might be a failed battery or duff battery leads try a overnight trickle charge and see what the battery is when stood
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have a look at the earth cable ....theres one on or near the rocker cover, i think thats related?
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could well be a bad earth .....that causes the figure to shoot up n down quickly or the voltage reg on the cluster
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yeah gsf does em
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id try a new voltage reg for the sake of £10 and 5 mins with a screwdriver
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how come all the oil didnt leak out from the unattached end?
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ask em for trade discount.....or find a place that rebuild yours whats wrong with your old one? bearings are about £35 fitted and a voltage reg £10 diy
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i would suggest you bypass it for a while to see if the fault is still there
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any imobiliser still on there?
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can anyone in east anglia help with vag.com , we need a fault found a mk3 vr6 Lreg , the abs and airbag light stays lit located near newmarket area
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yeah the factory leads arnet very thick....doesnt cost alot if you can do it yourself
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anyone confirm those readings ??
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when it clicks next....i suggest you turn the ign on and see if main beam is as bright as expected , that should confirm if the battery has enough juice to attempt to start the car if there no voltage at the starter...but the battery is good, then its probably a battery lead
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get a cheap multimeter..test that the battery has 12v+ and then test whats at the starter while a helper cranks it over
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have a search on vwvortex.....a few people have drilled through the pulley and into the crank in 2 places and fitted a roller bearing to act as a pin
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okay ive taken some readings outside temp 17deg engine cold i got 2.8 ohms with the meter on a 20k setting after 1 min running time 2.0 ohms after 2 mins running time 1.3 ohm engine hot and oil at 86deg 0.25 ohms hows that sound
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shall i stick the multi meter into the conncetor with in still on the sensor ?
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i thought it was a bad move?? stops the isv bleeding boost when its suposed to
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its got a recnet 02 sensor on it...and the co pot is ajusted right for th ecorrect a/f at idle
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anyone with a sns chip have cold running issues ? mine chugs and bogs when the engine is cold and sounds almost ready to stall any ideas
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what oil is in it?? dont say synthetic as they dont allow the rings to bed in
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dud co pot?
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Valver didnt want to come back to the IOW !!! -- Updated
steveo29 replied to Twiss's topic in Engine Bay
yank a inj and see if its spraying fuel then see if theres a spark when cranking