steveo29

just make sure the scraper is not sharp...something plastic would be ideal

have you got a boost gauge to confirm if there is boost there or not? maybe a slipy belt or a hose starting to leak

id go for a low miler if they can prove it ! the rings ,bores and everything else will have more wear

you should find it wipes off fairly easy with thinners or carb cleaner.....mine did on a 150k engine

senders are all good i think the isv is working as it should....its holding the revs down when its conected and the engine is cold

id go for the vw block of possible...you see the odd pg engine for sale , but theyve all done around 100k miles so your probably going to have more issues further along the road

only slight worry on filling it is if the sealer falls out and finds it way intot hte charger ive got to admit im not a fan of a bolt stuck in a piece of pipe..looks a bit shody

a ported head has all the interanls smoothed out so that air can enter and exhaust cant exit faster....should be good for a nice increase id imagine your looking at £400 upwards on a exchange basis...i think g werks has started to do flowed heads

i cant remeber the pressures it was set to, the system pressure was in spec, and i ajusted the wur with a wideband connected so that when hot its was running good tbh i think the cold fuel pressure is wrong...as it wanted to rev hard with no isv until it warmed up

with a gauge

okay i have a KR engined golf, its always reved rather hard on start up and ive never been able to cure it( tried messing with fuel pressure, new isv,isv control,wur etc) anyway today i thought id start it with the isv red black wire undone to see if it keeps the revs down, and on start up the revs shot round to 2-3 k and wouldnt settle ....i plugged the isv in and it dropped back my question is :oops: does that sound like incorrect cold fuel presure? as the idle is 900 when warm without the isv plugged in

chances are its down on power with a failed gasket...certainly dont go nutting it about till its fixed its worth having new valve guides and or stem seals whiles its off...if your flush and after more power then a ported/flowed head would be a godd idea £350 is a fair bit...id do it myself

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38283 ive been going nuts trying to find where my noise was from

so yours was open??

the blanking cap is just a rubber cap that slips over the outlet on the tb

the pipe with a bolt is what supercharged junkie suggests is causing my noise...i fitted a proper blanking cap and im having a prob with it not sounding right as mentioned in my first post i agree the bolt stuffed in a pipe looks rank....not really sure of a nice way to do it...was hoping for lots of answers as many people do this mod

cheers i'll have a look soon strange no one else has chimed in....must only be me n you that can hear it

cheers i'll give that a try....thanks for responding :) is yours a fairly fat pipe..the pic shows it like a thin vac tube

16v? upper and lower manifold gaskets and its probably an idea to get the inj inserts and seals and theyre prob leaky make sure you get the right size gasket..i.e 42/50mm

what pipe is that mate?? how long is the pipe your usung?

feel bad for you mate, they must have used a fair bit of force to do that...it the back of the dor marked?

i removed the c arbon canistor on my g6o...i now have a sound which is very much like a leaky vac pipe when driving off boost..it sounds like behind dash or TB area ive used proper vac caps, and now jubilee clips...ive checked over it 3 times and cannot find a dud connection :mad: just to be clear(maybe ive missed something :oops: ) the fuel tank breather is now in the airbox, one small vac line blanked off on back of TB and a bigger one blanked off on lower TB , ive fitted a 90deg elbow for the MFA line at the fron tof the manifold! is that everything? so have i missed something...or does the removal of the CC cause increased sucky/vac leak sound on off boost driving?? :roll: :roll: its driving me mad..i cant that ive done anything wrong, yet it sounds wrong

the tb earth lead should be fixed....it will be the earth from batt-chassis-gearbox thats causin probs

are you sure it was the brake hose?? the flat battery/solenoid thing points to a bad earth cable on the battery

its a sod to get out ...i broke the old one up with a screwdriver ! some peopple claim if you get a close fitting drift and pack the bush with grease it will pop out when you bash the drift?? worth a try i guess or you can find a tap that threads into it with idea that you can yank it out