P3rks

No, callipers, carriers and discs off. You need the discs off to gain access to the front of the sensor. You need the callipers and carriers off to get the disc off. I actually had to spend hours drilling one carrier off as both bolts rounded off completely. I recommend heat and lots if WD40 again. If you don't have a blowtorch now is your time to invest. :lol:

Essentially yes the rear sensors just plug out and the new ones plug in. But they will be seized. I recommend lots of soaking in WD40 or similar. Heating the stub axel up. Then hammering the old ones out. They will be stuck good and proper though. If you don't want to ruin the old sensors find a socket which is just big enough to fit over the magnet of the sensor but small enough to touch the base of the sensor. It'll give more even distribution and shouldn't cause damage - plus it's easier to do it this way and you won't have to clean up. Use the socket method to put the new ones in; mine needed a gentle tap to put them in place. Remember to clean the inside and outside of the sensor hole first: clear it of rust. Use a small file or sand paper/wire wool. Or better still, a small wire wheel attachment on a drill for easy work. It's an easy, but not a fun job - very messy.. Expect Lots of swearing. Enjoy :)

Ouch! That's not the method. Your meant to use the smallest vacuum line possible and only do it at 3,000rpm+ It does sound pikey but its an old school hot rodders method. Same goes for the ATF trick.

What's wrong with the old water through a vac pipe trick? :lol: I did it on an old engine and the results were awesome! If anyone's ever had a head gasket go so the coolant enters the chambers you might have noticed how clean that cylinder was.. Steam cleaned!

Please put my name on the list. They look nice! I want some.

As above; wheel bearing. Or even possibly a sticking caliper?

When you replaced the top mounts were the bearings done at the same time? I know some mounts the bearings are integral; some are seperate. I'd also be looking at front wheel bearings if you changed the CV's. also bottom ball joints; although I can't see them clicking when turning.

Bid war bid war! I don't want to step on your toes Emu so I'll retract my offer.

Got an unbroken, un-split 90mm.. It has a few scuffs, but nothing bad. I just want to be honest. I'm confident you'll struggle a better one though. £60 + postage to you.. (PM me your address and I'll get some quotes). I'll post it on a wooden board to stop it getting bent.

What are the wheels like? Any major curbing or things?

(See below) I have one, in Sheffield. But emu got in first.

As above. Classic parts or VW Heritage Classic parts for the elbow and seal. The elbow bolts direct to the radiator. So if the bolt snaps or crack the housing it's new rad time. WD40 or similar soaking for ages. Then I'd get the car hot and up to temp before trying to remove it.

Bump

G60 are 280mm and once again identical to VR6 280's. Other than the disc (5stud/4atud). 16v's are 256mm.

Standard VR is 280mm. The 288's are better. Not great mind. Just a heads up, MK4 GTi callipers and carriers are identical the Golf VR 288's and go for pennies. I paid 99p for my set up. Gotta love eBay. They were tired and needed a rebuild mind; still. Shows bargains are to be had.

Looks good! I like it. Needs to go lower. It's not low enough, never mind ridiculously low. When your sump starts taking out cats eyes; you're low enough :lol:

My renewal went from £450 a year to £4000+ after I made a claim. In fact, they refused to give me the official price because they said it was too embarrassing. Got to love insurance companies. :lol:

Nothing wrong with the Magnex at all. The G-Werks is rarer and the quality it second to none; plus I preferred the tailpipe. Personal preference really. 2.25" I believe. So same as standard. That's good to know! Suppose each set-up will have its own character.

Im just discussing with a friend the moment regarding the sound of my VR6 exhaust. Most, if not all VR6's have that unique burble. Nice and deep with a laziness about it. Mine on the other hand sounds raspy, eager and sounds unique in its own right. It still has that sixpot sound, but it just doesn't sound traditionally VR6; like its missing something. When I bought the car it was fitted with a VR specific Magnex system. It did sound like a VR should. I then fitted a 6-branch, de-cat and my G-Werks stainless system from my old G60 that I broke - The exhaust system was fitted to the VR as it had early and late hangers and its a very good system. Now I know the system changed the sound.. But, back to the point. Will the G60 system be restrictive on the VR6? I would have thought a boosted 1.8 will create similar exhaust gases to a N/a VR6 but my friend thinks the VR will produce more. Also I'm unsure whether the G-Werks system was G60 specific or just Corrado specific and suitable for all engines. Thoughts?

I use Auto Finesse Crystal glass cleaner. Works on my glass sunroof no problem. I wouldn't fancy using a steamer, you have no idea where the steam may end up - you don't want water getting into the deep innards of the mech; they are fragile enough as it is.

I'm guessing the alarm used to bypass some original Corrado wires, either fuel pump or ignition. And by removing the alarm you've now effectively left one of the car harness wires 'snipped'. It's going to be a case of checking the car wiring loom to see if any wires have been left cut. Either that or you've inadvertently unplugged a needed fuse box connection.. Which is easily done. Or even there is a trace of the alarm still there causing issues. You could have even removed something from the car loom by mistake? Either way you need to start tracing the car loom. I'd be checking ignition and fuel pump wires around the fusebox side of things first. If it was me I'd be removing the dash to get a clear look at things and do it properly; you'll be surprised what wiring horrors may be lurking.

That's good to hear. It's just slightly better with higher ah and crank and not that much heavier. Swings and round a bouts really, but I just want the best performance for the money; that 0.8kg extra weight doesn't bother me do much. The car is actually a daily at the moment so no point of a trickle charge. Plus not bring garages I don't want a cable hanging out if the kitchen window every night! I hardly run the stereo when the cars not running. It's nothing stupid anyway, just decent speakers for better sound rather than thumping madness it's hardly ever put about volume 5 anyway. But if I'm sat waiting for 5 minutes when picking someone up it'd be nice to listen to music without the battery going flat. Something which a normal battery should be able to cope with.

Sounds fun! I'll try the battery first as I know it's old, plus it's easier than this route! Well, before I went OBD2 if I turned on a lot of electrical items the load became too much and the idle revs dropped, to the point where it had an adverse effect on the charging and the headlights dimmed drastically etc. I had a 120a alternator from a golf VR lying around, so I swapped my original 90a along with the wiring. Firstly to see if it made any difference to my issue (which it didn't) and secondly because I have a sub/amp, uprated headunit/speakers and also a upgraded headlight loom with some decent bulbs. My battery is currently a 096 with a 74ah and 700 crank powerr, so it's pretty beefy compared to the original Corrado one. Good to hear! I thought that was the case. In all honestly I just swapped out the 90a for the current 120a to see if it made a difference and to narrow down the issues. I just left it on. My GF always said bigger was better. On another note.. I tried a mates really old battery which has been sat for years. It's the same sized 096 with a 74ah but with a 640 crank. It has very similar voltages as above, although the resting is just over 12.1v so I know it's tired. But it's holding it's charge better than the battery I originally questioned. So I'm going to say I have a crap battery and need to get a new one. Looking at new batteries and i have done the research this one is the forum recommendation, 74ah with 750 crank: http://www.battery2u.co.uk/type-067-096-varta-car-batteries-E38-silver.aspx But, I've also seen this one 77ah and 780 crank.. http://www.battery2u.co.uk/type-067-096-varta-car-batteries-E44-silver.aspx It's cheaper by a few quid, 15mm taller but it will fit no problem as it's the same hight as my current battery. It's heavier but has better ah and crank power.. Any reasons not to go for this one?

I'd say heater matrix too. Mine did exactly the same last week. New matrix time. Check for wet carpets around where the matrix would be.

How did you narrow down the location of the short? My issue is that there is no obvious drain, so other than pulling everything out I wouldn't know where to start!