Stonejag

Indicators are now sold. Stone

If you want to set up a group buy, go ahead! I'd be in... Stone

Just to close this off, I had the bumper off anyway so I did succeed in the end! The speednuts have a round folded-back section on the very back which holds a bolt thread between itself and the rear of the speednut. I ended up grinding away at the rear of the clip until I'd cut away all the protruding screw, then a bit more to remove the round piece on the back of the clip. After that there was only a tiny lip holding the screw in so I could get it out from the front normally. Sneaky :) As a tip for those reading this thread in future - grinding generates a lot of heat and you need to stop the speed nut getting too hot or it'll melt the bumper skin. Luckily I realised before it did too much damage (and I can still get a replacement nut onto it) but it's something to be aware of! Stone

Couple of bits for sale: Offside late-spec foglight. Used, but the lens is perfect and the frame looks like it's just come out of the packet. £70 Also two late-spec indicators. Offside has minor stone-chips but absolutely no scratches or cracks. Nearside has a very shallow surface scuff (no cracks) which I've tried to picture below. Looks like it'll polish out but with the lenses being plastic I don't want to ruin it in the attempt... Offside £30, nearside £20 or £40 for the pair. Stone

Well, I think I've struck the jackpot: (from [this page]) This diagram shows both two types of pedal assembly for a Passat - the bottom one looks pretty much identical to the pedal box that came with my cruise bits, and the top one looks suspiciously like it might be the same as the RHD Corrado part... [edited: I'm pretty sure these parts are correct as they show up as Scirocco / Corrado / Passat / Santana in ETKA. My current pedal is 3A2 721 509A; I believe the correct auto/RHD/cruise pedal is 3A2 721 509B (with actuator bracket 358 721 819). Sadly this pedal is obsolete and not produced by Classic Parts so I may still have to go it alone - however it gives me some confidence in how I was planning to do it! Not sure on the bracket yet, but at least if I can get hold of one of them I'll be able to line the gas pedal linkage up appropriately for the factor actuator position. Or I can do it freestyle! :)] Stone

You're right, it's quite tight behind the fusebox! Mine's an auto so there's bags of room where the clutch normally lives, I'm going to fit the actuator upside down in there and have it pulling on the linkage where the throttle cable is attached to the pedal box on the left hand side. There are several safety features but the main one is that brake switch releases the vacuum out of the actuator near-instantly when pressed. The design means the actuator can only pull the pedal down (but doesn't stop you from manually pushing the pedal harder) - it relies on the return spring to pull it back up. The electrical contacts in the brake switch also interrupt power to the cruise ECU when activated so there's a second layer of security there. Also, the vent on the vacuum pump is normally open and requires current from the ECU to keep it closed, so if power fails then the vent will open and the vacuum will escape through the pump. Also (!) the power to the switch is provided from the auto transmission's ECU which prevents the system activating when you're in reverse...so overall it's pretty safe. On a manual that bit isn't there - the clutch switch and brake switch get their power from a regular switched live, but they're in serial so only one needs to be pressed to cut the system off. Given that it's quite complicated, it's pretty well thought out. From having a play with it yesterday it's extremely tolerant to being misaligned (hard to describe though!) so it should be pretty easy to get something working. There's a good couple of inches of adjustment in the linkage so I just have to get it set so the cable isn't being pulled when the cruise actuator's fully extended but fully depressing the gas pedal doesn't make the arm hit the bottom of the actuator. I'll take some pics later but I'm pretty confident! The vacuum pump seems pretty robust - I'm planning to put it in the engine bay though rather than the stock location behind the nearside wheel-arch liner, because that's a really stupid place to put it! It's pretty noisy but it won't make much difference next to a VR6... Apparently they usually fail because the ECU is made really cheaply but I plan to replace a bunch of the weak parts before installing it so it should work out alright. Stone

A third brake light is a good idea for exactly the reasons above! I'm not a big fan of the USA-model one, I think it's too low down so it doesn't do as much as it could to draw the attention of the tailgaters... Mine cost me around £6 off eBay - it's just a 24-LED one on a swivelling mount; installing it can't have taken more than 90 minutes. Stuck it to the top of the back window with some double-sided foam pads, ran the cable down the trim for the C-pillars and wired it into the bulb plate of the offside back light - these have metal contact fingers on the bottom that accept standard 1/4" spade terminals (I didn't realise that at the time so soldered them on and put a blob of epoxy over the top! Will rework it one day when I can be bothered). Don't recall which pin is what offhand but a bit of probing with a multimeter while a mate hits the brake pedal on command will sort you out! Pics: Stone

Got around to having a bit more of a play with this today. I've now checked out all the wiring. I resurrected a small lead-acid battery that I had lying around in the house (it was so discharged it only read 1V! Needed quite a lot of high-voltage charging to get it desulphated and accepting charge again...) and was feeling brave so ran the vacuum pump off it to see what would happen. Success :D Took a bit of working out but there's another failsafe feature built into the pump - when the internal valve has power applied to it the vacuum system is sealed, but with no power any vacuum the pump creates instantly escapes through the vent. I'm guessing this is to make triply sure that a system failure can't leave the pedal stuck down due to vacuum still being in the system; the whole system is already vented through the brake pedal switch if you touch the brakes so it's a touch of overkill! With the pump running (12V across pins 2 and 3) there's a small stir of movement on the actuator arm but it has no power behind it. With the vent valve powered, however (pump pins 1 and 3), it's so powerful I can't resist it by hand without endangering the plastic linkage! It's easily powerful enough to pull directly on the throttle cable so when I'm a bit further along I'll start on a bracket to hold it in the right place in the footwell. Alignment doesn't seem to be that crucial due to how the plastic linkage is attached to the actuator so it should be pretty easy, I just need to keep enough clear space to allow the dash undertrays to be refitted. Got hold of a test procedure for the model of ECU I have so I'll be running that tomorrow and then hopefully there aren't many obstacles to getting it all installed :D Stone

Your car looks lovely :) Did you use a section from another bumper to fill in the rear towing eye or just make it up with sheet? Pics of what you replaced the washers with and how would be interesting too! I have some fan-spray jets (6E0 955 985 for standard ones, 6E0 955 986 for the heated equivalent) which normally clip into an oblong hole - it looks like I can fit them in the void between the outside of the reinforcement member and the top skin of the bonnet but I think I'll only find out when I start cutting holes :) Stone

I'm down to the last screw on a (late-style) front foglight and the stupid thing's rusted into the speed nut :bad-words: Soaked in copious WD40 for a few days but no joy. Had the same problem on the other side: I started drilling the head off the screw but it heated it up enough for it to just pull through the plastic surround! Luckily the lens was broken on that one so it wasn't an issue, but the other one is mint so I'd like to avoid damaging it if possible. Any tips would be much appreciated :) Stone

I did fine on the ice but yesterday one of my Audi A6 doors fell over in the garage as I was reversing in and knocked some more holes in the door paint :( I reckon the worst will come tomorrow after what's left of today's snow refreezes overnight... Stone

They're not indicators, they're lit all the time to make the car more visible. Easy to rewire your side repeaters for them though. VW called them 'side markers' which should help your search. Part numbers: Side marker (left): 191 945 119 Side marker (right): 191 945 120 Bulb socket: 191 949 111 (obsolete but still available from VW Classic Parts) snap nut (one required per side): N 015 448 7 I've just received a set of aftermarket smoked ones from Concept 1 in Canada - cheap and excellent quality, but you'll need someone to ship them onward to you because they don't post outside the USA/Canada. They're made to the same pattern as the VW ones but with black plastic replacing the orange so they look better. Here's a pic of mine test-fitted to a piece of American bumper... Just need to get the two end pieces of bumper grafted onto my spare one now :) Stone

A roll of cheap carpet (try Ikea) isn't a bad idea either. If you get stuck, lay it out behind the back wheels and roll back onto it, then use it to get rolling...

Is there another part number for them other than the 535* one then?

12.7V while attached to the car or with the leads off? Measure the voltage again with the car running - should be around 13.8V. If it's much below that your alternator's not charging it properly. Stone

Yes mate.

That's the throttle damper, it plugs into the idle control valve (part #1) and stops the throttle snapping shut instantly when you take your foot off the gas. The little nubbin that connects to pipe #4 is solid - it doesn't connect in, it's just to support it mechanically. Pipe #4 is joined to the outer edge of the inlet elbow (the plastic or rubber bit in the top-left of the engine bay that connects the airbox to the throttle body), and once the idle control valve and damper have done their thing pipe #3 connects the air feed into the throttle body to allow it more or less air depending on how the idle's doing :) It's a pretty overengineered system and doesn't work very well, which is why the VR6 idle is so lumpy! They ditched it on the later OBD2 engines fitted to the Golf VR6es and did it all electronically :) Stone

The blue temp sensor is for the ECU, not the dashboard gauge! The yellow one does the gauge (and the fan overrun on speed 3). Best to get a new one from VW, I went through three second-hand ones none of which worked! The replacement will be black with a blue band on, don't worry, it's the same part. Should be #701 919 369D. If that doesn't fix it your thermostat is probably stuck open. Change all three parts of the housing and the long plastic pipe across the front of the engine at the same time to save yourself the trauma of trying to get them apart without smashing them... Stone

I've driven an auto for the last five years - for FWD at least, they're no bother in snow if you know what you're doing. Some gearboxes are clever enough to start off in second gear if you manually select 2 and pull away, some aren't. My 2001 Lupo/Arosa and the C aren't :) Same advice as normal really - just go very gently on the throttle as applying too much torque will spin the wheels. If you get stuck whatever you do don't boot it, you'll just polish the ice and make it slippier. Every VW auto box since 1990ish has had a slight delay in the lock solenoid activating if you go R->D->R->D without the brake pedal pushed, so give it a tiny bit of throttle and you'll usually be able to rock yourself out. If that fails, roll backwards in neutral and try on a rougher bit of snow! If you can drive on fresh uncompacted powder you'll have the best grip - if it's looking sketchy I try and get myself offset from all the tyre tracks so you have less ice under the wheels. I'm considering snow tyres this year but have never used them before - the Arosa still got up a 13º slope on nothing but ice just by idling up it in 1st gear and keeping an eye on the momentum so you'll probably be fine. You might want to consider some of the non-standard chains - Mita snow chains and Jeko snow belts will both fit more easily than standard ones - bear in mind you need to take them off when you hit clear tarmac or you'll chew up the road, so you want some that fit easily! HTH Stone

I'd got that far but it's one of the badly scanned pages... Best quality pic I've found is this: So is it item #15 then? :scratch:

Specs sound a little tame, mine's an auto and easily does 155... (on an airfield :norty:) Stone

Hi all, I've gained a rattle in my driver's door, and I suspect the (very tired) fittings at the opening end have come loose again. I believe the plastic pop-rivet clips that hold the lower edge of the door card are 3A0 867 301, but what's the part number for the right-angled plastic parts that pop-rivet onto the door skin and accept the self-tapping screws through the edge of the door card? Also, how many do I need? I only have a couple left and it looks like there should be more... Cheers :)

Got any pics fitted? If it matches the contour of the roof properly (not sitting proud in the middle like the Passat one) it might go on my list :) Stone

Hot air gun on low is supposed to be the charm. I'm still too scared to do it with mine in case it takes the paint off and rusts before the respray :lol: Stone

Any good? (this is a G60 but I think they're the same?) There's this pic in the Bentley too (Wiring section, pp29-30) but annoyingly it only shows the numbering and functions, not which numbered relay goes in each slot... You may also find [this link] useful! Stone